quote:

Originally posted by Camaro80z:
Hello,
I have been running Hoosier 18400D05's on my 985 HP, 2100 lb swingarm single shock dragster the last couple of years.

They have worked great going down the track, but shake severely in the burnout. I have tried to adjust pressure and shock setup, but when the burnout has felt better the car has felt worse going down the track. I had the best success down track at 5.5 PSI and the shock setup on the stiffer side.

I have always run Hoosiers but I am open to all brands and hearing your results and opinions. Thanks.

The Original poster is asking about a 985 Hp BRACKET car. Why you arguing about what 230 MPH Top Dragster runs? These are not same animals and do not require same tires.

As for blistering and chunking on top end on cars over 200 MPH then I would not be surprised if the car needs more wing down force. Little Bubbas and big Bubbas may work great on 4.20-4.80 cars but may need more wing faster than that? Still it comes down to right tire for your needs.

Now my Altered was not very Aerodynamic or as fast as Top Dragster but it would get loose on the top end until I put a wing on it. Then the faster you go the smoother it gets and crosswinds etc. did not bother it much. Top Dragster is much faster yet I suspect that the blistering problem may be resolved with more wing? That is for the faster guys to figure and not my place to tell them just a suggestion worth trying.

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Camaro80z:


As for blistering and chunking on top end on cars over 200 MPH then I would not be surprised if the car needs more wing down force. Little Bubbas and big Bubbas may work great on 4.20-4.80 cars but may need more wing faster than that? Still it comes down to right tire for your needs.

Now my Altered was not very Aerodynamic or as fast as Top Dragster but it would get loose on the top end until I put a wing on it. Then the faster you go the smoother it gets and crosswinds etc. did not bother it much. Top Dragster is much faster yet I suspect that the blistering problem may be resolved with more wing? That is for the faster guys to figure and not my place to tell them just a suggestion worth trying.

The so called experts at MT say too much wing is what is causing the blistering and chunking. I normally run 1-3* of angle using a digital level. They say that is too much and I should set it to zero. I asked the MT guy who said this if he had ever drove a dragster at 230 mph plus with no down force before, all I got was crickets. FUC MT

IF your looking for tires that shake less bracket racing...the M/T BUBBA is what your looking for. Not saying its the best tire ever...just saying they shake the least of all of them on the market and repeat like crazy.

I HAVE SAID F Hoosier in years past as well after using Hoosiers...doesn't mean I won't try any other brand again.

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:


The so called experts at MT say too much wing is what is causing the blistering and chunking. I normally run 1-3* of angle using a digital level. They say that is too much and I should set it to zero. I asked the MT guy who said this if he had ever drove a dragster at 230 mph plus with no down force before, all I got was crickets. FUC MT

If someone said run 0* on a wing at 230 MPH they are an idiot. That we can agree on. I am not sure more wing would resolve the issue but I know less wing is not going to help.

Chris, no need for me try another brand because neither my current tire # 18760 aka BR3 nor my previous tire #18790 34.5/17 have ever shook bracket racing.

Truly, I cant say on the BR3 as I have never run them (like you have never run the Bubbas)...the 18790 was the reason I stopped using the Hoosiers. The Bubbas made them look silly on all aspects, especially in the burnout...(less shake)

got no reason to run the bubbas and don't know what to tell you, they never shook on my car

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:

The so called experts at MT say too much wing is what is causing the blistering and chunking. I normally run 1-3* of angle using a digital level. They say that is too much and I should set it to zero. I asked the MT guy who said this if he had ever drove a dragster at 230 mph plus with no down force before, all I got was crickets. FUC MT

So are you running an airfoil or just a flat piece of aluminum on struts?

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:

So what does a street raced pro mod that pours pimp juice down on the STREET have anything to do with bracket raced cars. Atleast my example was a bracket raced 4.50 dragster.....

Not expert on all wings. First if tire has problem with too much down forst its still the tire.

On attack angle. A well designed wing will actually have good amount of down force from -4* to about 6 or 8* at which point the drag goes up excessive compared to down force increase. While I am not expert the guy I got the info from might qualify,he did work for NASA at the time. His wings where on some of the fastest TA/D cars . I had zero issue with his wing at zero and running 240 plus. Hey maybe downforce has changed since 1996. LOL

The original poster simply asked about tires that didn’t shake doing a burnout.

It devolved into the usual battle and helped no one.

When I had BURNOUT SHAKE issue’s I started foot brake stalling up to at least 3500 before starting the burnout and you will be more likely to have BURNOUT SHAKE in hotter weather and when there is not enough water in the burnout area.

Grab the brake as quick as you feel shake start and slide it into neutral

And then BUY M/T’s cause they don’t shake doing burnouts. Lol

and neither do Hoosier's when you have the right tire, the right pressure and water in the burnout box.

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
The original poster simply asked about tires that didn’t shake doing a burnout.

It devolved into the usual battle and helped no one.

When I had BURNOUT SHAKE issue’s I started foot brake stalling up to at least 3500 before starting the burnout and you will be more likely to have BURNOUT SHAKE in hotter weather and when there is not enough water in the burnout area.

Grab the brake as quick as you feel shake start and slide it into neutral

And then BUY M/T’s cause they don’t shake doing burnouts. Lol

Agree on all points. Ed has never ran anything but Hoosiers but of course is the expert on all things tires . Imagine all the crow he would have had to eat if M/T actually sponsored him when he asked.

If you only had a fucing clue you might get past 2nd round in S/C and without question my knowledge and experience far surpasses yours.

1. I've run every tire over 30 years.

2. I did not ask emp tee to sponsor us!

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:
FUC MT

M/T vs Hoosier will never end...if you haven't tried either no amount of knowledge matters. Some like M/T, some like Hoosier. Try em both to have full knowledge IMO.

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:

1. I've run every tire over 30 years.

2. I did not ask emp tee to sponsor us!

You never ran MT on your dragster, and this thread is about dragsters. So you have no experience and nothing meaningful to contribute to this post. Perhaps you could learn something by listening to the posters who have actually ran all the brands on a dragster and gave the OP good advice.

And your 4 first round losses in 6 races in super comp last year is really impressive Maybe you can tell us all the secret to your success some day

don't need to run that junk on my dragster, I can tune my chassis, have the right tire, the right air pressure, my driver knows how to do a burnout and our Hoosier slicks have never once shook or rattle anywhere since the first pass on this car in April 2014!

That said, let us know when you win a division championship, are a JEGS ALLSTAR, finish #2 the next year, are in 2 National event finals in the same season, win a National event, finish #4 in the world. THAT will NEVER happen for you, GUARANFUCINGTEED!

I'll lower the bar...let us know when you win 2nd round in S/C!