quote:

Originally posted by Camaro80z:
Hello,
I have been running Hoosier 18400D05's on my 985 HP, 2100 lb swingarm single shock dragster the last couple of years.

They have worked great going down the track, but shake severely in the burnout. I have tried to adjust pressure and shock setup, but when the burnout has felt better the car has felt worse going down the track. I had the best success down track at 5.5 PSI and the shock setup on the stiffer side.

I have always run Hoosiers but I am open to all brands and hearing your results and opinions. Thanks.

18400 is a tire for a 15" diameter wheel. If you stick with the 15" wheel you may want to try the Hoosier 18600 tire instead. A little taller and slightly stiffer sidewall than the 18400. Two things that will help "more power". I also like the GY 2533

To no surprise everyone is suggesting a switch to M/T. This would likely fix the burnout shake but the fix could be much simpler. What is the stall of your torque converter and what is your burnout rpm. If the 2 are too close together you will shake the tires.

Scott

quote:

Originally posted by 358T:

quote:

Originally posted by Camaro80z:
Hello,
I have been running Hoosier 18400D05's on my 985 HP, 2100 lb swingarm single shock dragster the last couple of years.

They have worked great going down the track, but shake severely in the burnout. I have tried to adjust pressure and shock setup, but when the burnout has felt better the car has felt worse going down the track. I had the best success down track at 5.5 PSI and the shock setup on the stiffer side.

I have always run Hoosiers but I am open to all brands and hearing your results and opinions. Thanks.

18400 is a tire for a 15" diameter wheel. If you stick with the 15" wheel you may want to try the Hoosier 18600 tire instead. A little taller and slightly stiffer sidewall than the 18400. Two things that will help "more power". I also like the GY 2533

To no surprise everyone is suggesting a switch to M/T. This would likely fix the burnout shake but the fix could be much simpler. What is the stall of your torque converter and what is your burnout rpm. If the 2 are too close together you will shake the tires.

Scott

Scott brings up a good point that I overlooked. I see some guys do a burnout in a dragster and the tires barely spin and shake a lot. I’ve asked what their burnout chip is and it’s low like 6000 or 6200. You definitely want the burnout chip to be above the converter stall for a clean burnout. In my case my converter flashes to 6300/6400 depending on the air and I have the burnout chip at 6700.

You will also notice a super hard burnout on the Hoosiers to "minimize" the shake. I especially noticed this on Scott's cars as well as the Lynch crew. Killing the rpm chip to try and control the tire shake the best they can. NO burnout chip required on Bubba's...

Most that have tried the 3190, 3191, 3195, 3196, or 3197 Mickey's NEVER went back to the Hoosiers. 15 inch rims dont offer tires "any brand" as forgiving as M/T Bubba's.

If you have not tried the 3190 for yourself you may kick yourself later for not doing so. 3190 would be a great tire for smooth burnouts, consistency, and longevity IMO.

One thing I started doing back when I had burnout shake issues was to footbrake stall the engine up to 3000+ before doing a burnout..

It gets the wheel speed up faster and allows me to do a pretty short burnout especially in hotter weather....I can and often barely cross the starting line at some tracks.....No need for a long burnout...


If it is the cooler time of year I would extend that burnout to a more normal out across the staring line deal...

RPM is always well above converter stall.....and I do use a 3 step....probably 6800-7000 and I have not had any detrimental problems from using one.....

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:
My last two sets of MT tires do not leak and I did not put anything in them.

After I had beadlocks installed on my rims in July, I installed MT tires for the first time in 7 years because of how bad they leaked back then. I did soap with Walmart brand 3X dish soap prior to installing. These new 2019 made tires do not leak and am very happy with them now. Even though my car is slow (6.40) I believe the beadlocks were an excellent upgrade.

I just feel intentionally making an engine backfire can't be a positive thing for the components of the engine. Watch the reher Morrison video of valve train on the rpm chip...made me quit that as it's simply ABUSIVE.

JMO

I usually do a shorter burnout, as I will be about .04 slower if I do a long burnout.

I do not have a burnout chip, but I try to be between 6800-7000 in the burnout and my converter stalls at 6300. On longer burnouts I have been as high as 7200 and still get shake.

I actually get more shake the harder I try to hit the tires.

I have also been told it is best to run a stiff sidewall for quicker reaction times, but I am running 1.160 in the box for bracket racing. Would it be better to move to a softer sidewall?

To those that runs 16 inch rims, what is the advantage over 15 inch rims? Is it better tires available or are there other advantages?

I want to once again say thank you to everyone responding to this. It makes me feel more comfortable to make a change of this cost with as much information as possible.

quote:

Originally posted by Camaro80z:
I usually do a shorter burnout, as I will be about .04 slower if I do a long burnout.

I do not have a burnout chip, but I try to be between 6800-7000 in the burnout and my converter stalls at 6300. On longer burnouts I have been as high as 7200 and still get shake.

I actually get more shake the harder I try to hit the tires.

I have also been told it is best to run a stiff sidewall for quicker reaction times, but I am running 1.160 in the box for bracket racing. Would it be better to move to a softer sidewall?

To those that runs 16 inch rims, what is the advantage over 15 inch rims? Is it better tires available or are there other advantages?

I want to once again say thank you to everyone responding to this. It makes me feel more comfortable to make a change of this cost with as much information as possible.

So... I started with 15" wheels with the same tire you have I believe in C07 compound, and it was okay going 5.20's in my dragster. Put a new motor in it (high 4.90's average) and they started shaking badly in burnout (burnout was always bad, come to think of it) and then they weren't as consistent down track.. Switched to MT 3084S, and they were much MUCH smoother overall.. Ran those for 2 seasons and found a good deal on 16" beadlocks, so I went ahead and got them after a good season and had some winnings. Now that I'm on 16" beadlocks with 3191W lil bubbas, I will not go back to 15"... The consistency and overall tire selection is way better for dragsters, fast or slow. I will say, I've been 4.60's on the Hoosier tire, it was not fun at all... To shorten it up, the 16" wheel/tire combo is just more forgiving once you get going faster than 5.20's

quote:

Originally posted by JakeW143:
The 18400 is a 15". I ran that tire in a CO7 compound for years(15+).The DO5 is a softer compound. I was always ready to let go of the 3 step button and grab a ton of brake towards the end of the burnout. It was and is a good tire, however after going to the M/T 3084s I will never go back to the 18400. If staying with the 15inch wheel look no further than the 3084s!!!

How fast 60'? Beadlocks?

The OP hasn't posted here in 6 months. He didn't update his previous thread either, 14 months before this one, back in august 2018.

Bottonline, he has/had a chassis/shock issue, not a tire issue. That said, I wouldn't recommend that tire/compound for his car.

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
The OP hasn't posted here in 6 months. He didn't update his previous thread either, 14 months before this one, back in august 2018.

Bottonline, he has/had a chassis/shock issue, not a tire issue. That said, I wouldn't recommend that tire/compound for his car.

I see that, but Jake has posted recently and had experience with that 15" tire. My 15" Hoosier last year was useless for me under 1.04 for any consistency. Would shake as often as not. Would like to see if I can get this 1800 lb combo to go 1 flat or a little faster. I really don't want to go the extra expense of beadlocks. Would prefer to stay with my 15" rims and a reasonable rollout so my gear ratio doesn't take a big hit. But the taller tire may not hurt as much as I think. I have always run Hoosiers, but with the shortened season, and an $800 investment in new tires, I can't afford to get it wrong and have another shaker. The MT's I borrowed didn't shake period. I mentioned on another thread I would take any suggestions to keep these hoosiers from shaking as we go faster on this 4 link. Nothing about my shock travel data looks unusual. Except for the result of the shake when it happens.

Honestly I often take what your opinion is about tires with a grain of salt because you are completely against MT's it seems, which is a tire that almost universally cures shake problems for others. And I say that with respect. Even hard core Hoosier guys eventually cry uncle. I don't want nor need a steamroller on this car either. It isn't a low 6's car. High sixes reasonably.

Dragster tires that dont shake? Lose the Hoosiers...Bubba's or the newest Goodyear's will be out soon!

oh please those 4 bars out back are meant to be turned and moved up or down and that's why you have shocks whose extension and rebound are adjustable.

Save your bars for divisionals...how many have to adjust there cars for chitty tires?

Puhleeze

your mom says "YOU A DUMBAZZ BOY". Smart lady

My mom died last year dumazz...go hug yours if ya can...

well my condolences but she was still smart. My mom will be 82 next month. Dad died 4 years ago in 7 days.

Thoughts for your Dad and HUG mom...

Grateful still racing with my Dad, he turns 75 this year!

thank you and make every moment count

I’ll second that, hug your parents even if they don’t want you to. I miss mine every day!