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DRR Elite |
The original poster was "Looking for Tires that Shake Less" The answer to THAT question is the right HOOSIER tire for the car and power, Period which he did not have. You can beat around the bush and try to change the subject or the question. Lets do not get side tracked with other stuff he was looking for tires that shake less because he had the wrong Hoosier. HOSIERS do everything better then emp tees and are the winningest tire in bracket racing as well class racing. They.hold air, require less weight to balance, repeat whether first or last run, don't blister, don't chunk! | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Serious question: have you ever ran MTs on your stuff? | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
With regards to dragsters, no matter what you currently run, if you have a bracket dragster that has tire shake on a run, you likely have setup/combo issues! And you could also be running the wrong tire for your purpose. I have owned and driven a dragsters since 97, used GY's, Hoosiers and MT's. I can say this, the faster you go the better the MT's work vs the other two! When I was running in the 7.30 to 7.7o range the original GY 2032 tire was very good in all weather conditions and shined in cold ones! Only draw back was killer tire shake coming out of the burnout so you had to be very careful! Once GY stopped making these I switch to Hoosiers CO6 compound, same tire size. These worked good in hot and warm conditions but not so great on a cold track. They also had a tendency to shake hard in the BO but not as bad as the GY's. Once I started going 7.0's I moved up to the 34.5" tires, GY's would shake on a hot track, Hoosiers were good in warm and hot tracks but not so good on a cold one and would shake bad in the BO! Real bad. Switch to MT's 3186 tire and all tire shake in the BO was gone and they worked the best of all in all conditions. My current combo run 6.80's and 6.60's with a small NOS shot. It's been .965 in 60', normally 1.00 and I am now using the 3197 MT's. By far the best tire out there for my combo! Anyone running much faster than 6.60's needs to understand the tire can't do it all! Don't matter who's tires you want to run! If you don't understand this then you need to get help from someone who does! As for MT's loosing air, I soap the side walls and have no real issues, when they are new they hold air, once they get some runs on them (over 70'ish) and it get's cold out at night they do loose some air but not crazy, they will drop from 7 to 3 over a period of 2 to 3 weeks if I don't race for that long in the spring and fall when it get's cold at night. I have run the 3186's to the cords with no issues, the first set of 3195's I had, one tire chunked at 75 runs plus of minus, MT took care of me, ran a few more sets of the 95's then the 96's and now the 97's with no chunking issues. For those chunking them, I'd take a good look at your combo, especially wheel speed! Like I said the tire can't do it all. Are MT's perfect, NO but neither are the others! So pick your poison with tires and the rest of the parts on your cars. | |||
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DRR Elite |
BINGO!! | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
The same people that make fun of MT for not holding air, are the same guys that run their hoosiers flat to make them work. Jeremiah Hall | |||
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DRR Elite |
Not me nor do I know anyone that does. Matter of fact I run more pressure than many. | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Then why does Hoosier tell everybody they need to be ran between 4.0 and 5.0 psi? Jeremiah Hall | |||
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DRR Elite |
I feel left out because no one from Hoosier told me and who specifically is aledged to have said this? | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
You’re right, the question was which tires shake less, particularly in the burnout, so why get side tracked with your second paragraph? Looks like you’re the one beating around the bush and changing the subject. Since you’ve never run MT on anything, what do you have to compare your experiences with Hoosier to? Nothing. Here’s my on track experience. I’ve run Hoosier 18700 C06 and MT 3183 on my dragsters going 7.30s-50s. I also had the GY 2032 when I first started racing and was going low 8s. My experience is the same as Al’s. The Goodyears were the worst in terms of shake in the burnout, followed by the Hoosiers. Since switching to the MTs, pretty much no shake whatsoever. One day I backed to backed the 3183s and 18700s. The car went 7.412 with one set and 7.414 with the other. The finish line RPM was the same as well as the MPH so the tires grow at the same rate. The Hoosier and MT work equally as well for my stuff during a run, but the MTs shake far less on the burnout. So after trying multiple brands I found that the MTs are easier on parts due to the lack of shake so that’s what we run. OP, I’m glad you found tires that solved your problem. | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Anybody I could talk to at hoosiers, and many other WINNING racers that run on those tires. Jeremiah Hall | |||
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DRR Elite |
so all Hoosier drag racing slicks are supposed to be run ar 4.0 to 5.0 psi? Good to know, thanks for the heads up. I think you've been speaking to the custodian at Hoosier. my son and I have won many races on Hoosier slicks and not one pair in over 30 years has ever been run at that tire pressure. | |||
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DRR Trophy |
Barker trailer sales is where I got the last set. Both were marked 105" from the factory and one was 105 the other 105 3/4". Mickey says stretch them to make them match, I've tried that and just not wanting to fight it anymore. I'm just afraid I'll be back fighting them before I'm done but hopefully this new Hoosier will be the answer for me.
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DRR Sportsman |
Some dude named Pharacon or some ****, and a big dealer out of Tennessee, but by all means, nobody as smart as you Jeremiah Hall | |||
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DRR Pro |
Has to be a buddy that has a set of new Hoosiers and a buddy that has a bubba...borrow them and try for your self on a test and tune night. Worth the effort | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
With all that being said, I believe a Hoosier on a dragster has its place, and I am looking for a set of wheels to put a set of hoosiers on. Both tires work very well on different track conditions. My faster passes were with the hoosiers on the car, on track conditions that were not the best, and it was consistent. But on a good track, no matter what i did, I would get 3 runs that would back up to the thou, then, shakes its ass off at the christmas tree, lose .03 in the 330 and not have that much in the bottle to make it up. So, i put the mickeys back on, and burned the hoosiers because they ALMOST cost me my 2018 championship in the Jegs Super Quick series. The one thing through the 32 passes i made with those tires, it ALWAYS rattled the tires on the burn out, and No, i do not use a 3 step, or ride the high side. Jeremiah Hall | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
I know this sounds strange but you will have more luck shrinking the larger tire than stretching the smaller tire. I shrunk one about 1” once. I had mounted and aired them up to 6, measured and they were 1 1/4” different. I put the smaller one up to 15 or 20 and left it in the sun. I took most of the air out of the larger one and left it in the sun. 20 minutes later they were 1/4” off. Did it for another 10 mins and actually had the smaller one larger. The next morning they were 1/4” different. I did the stretching one more time then immediately made a run. They came back 1/8” different and that’s how they stayed their entire life until I took them off after 250 passes. The key is that this all has to be done before the first burnout. Once they see a burnout they’re “locked” in. Before I started to measure them I had a set that was 3/4” off. Couldn’t feel it on the track whatsoever but it would pull to the direction of the smaller tire when driving around the pits As far as getting them from someone like Barker vs summit, here’s my take. The tires all come out of the mold and get measured and chalked at that time. None of these guys are mounting them up after they get them and measuring them to ensure they give you an identical set. I’ve had tires bought from multiple places, some measure out what they are chalked and some are much different. In my experience all of the retailers send sets that are marked within 1/4”. Whether they end up that way after mounting is another story. The set I talked about above was chalked 1/4” different but measured out much different. The 4 tires I bought at the beginning of last season came from dragracecarparts.co, he had the best deal and they ended up being shipped from summit anyway at a better price. One was marked 107.5 and measured the same. One was marked 107.25 and measured the same. The other two were marked 107 and measured 107.25. All good without needing to stretch or shrink. | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
That's called the .8 - 1.2 Hoosier Shuffle! And they are terrible coming out of the burnout! | |||
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DRR Elite |
Not my current tire # 18760 aka BR3 nor my previous tire #18790 34.5/17 and both are run north of 6psi and no shuffle ever! | |||
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DRR Top Comp |
I believe it’s pretty well known that the higher horsepower dragsters (Top Dragster) running Hoosiers are using low pressures between 4 and 5 psi. I’m getting a free set of Hoosier BR-1 tires from a friend next week because they are too short for his dragster with such low pressure. He is still running Hoosier but a much taller tire with more rollout. I don’t make any power to speak of so they might work for me. Can’t beat free! Clowns to the left of me, Jokers to the right. Here I am....... | |||
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DRR Elite |
Vern, most of the T/D racers I know running Hoosier's are using the C1500 like our own Big Steve who made the swap to this tire last year from emp tees, tired of their issues and excuses and hasn't looked back...
That said, Bryan Keller who arguably has the quickest T/D in the country is still using the 34.5/17. | |||
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