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| How to pick up .15 ET | Login/Join |
| DRR Top Comp |
Inferno, 600 tighter converter from what you have now with 150 shot, will make the stall the same as you have now, whatever that number is, I dunno, I'm guessing 6400. You don't want the stall high, like 7000 if you did use the current converter, because below stall, the converter also multiply's torque at the back tire X 2. Ya'll are discussing it like adding a 150 shot, is like adding 150hp n/a. It's nothing like that. If you don't have a progressor and the stall right, you'll be right back to where you were shaking, spinning, losing on a snowball to hell. Now if you wanna run killer off the trailer, do exactly as I've suggested. They're not my fundamentals, they're drag racing fundamentals. It'll Cadillac down through there. If ya wanna change gears, change low gear. 1.69. I don't know how to explain it any better, if you can't rap your head around the way I have explained it, it's probably gonna be ahell ride for your bank acct. | |||
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DRR Trophy |
[QUOTE]Originally posted by inferno camaro: What is the ET brake for door cars and any idea what it takes to get in? That is one on of the places I hope to hit up next year. Muncie is 5.10 or faster so I can usually make that one with no spray since they went to 16 car field. [QUOTE] Evidently I’m incorrect on that. I couldn’t remember if it was 4.90/5.20 or typical 4.99/5.29 minimums, so I went looking for info and was told they no longer have that rule. It is 16 on both sides and can be fairly quick for a local event. I have seen the dragster side sub 4.20 and the door car side sub 4.50. Sometimes the door car side is quicker than the dragster side. Seems like it really depends on the weather……if its nice outside, bring many bottles and your large tune up! They have had consolation races when the fields are large enough, so all of the non-qualifiers from both sides go into an all run class. They have also allowed DNQs to go into SP with no additional charge, not sure what the plan for 2022 is just yet. Jerry Kathe | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
Go with alky on the nitrous side as well. Let me know if you need anything or need a setup. I have a brand new NX dominator setup with 3 bottles I will sell, never been mounted or had N2O in any of the bottles, Keeping the Socialists and NEO-LIBERALS at bay with FACTS one post at a time !!! Freedom isn't free !!! Thank a veteran, they will actually appreciate it. | |||
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| DRR Trophy |
How much oil do you run? Recommended amount of oil does not include the filter. I have ran 6.5 qts and been fine, but this last build it wanted the extra .5 qt of oil, the pressure was getting to low for comfort. i run moroso pump with high pressure spring. where did you install drain backs at? and how big? Weight will be your biggest benefit with gaining ET and staying NA and alky. [QUOTE]Originally posted by inferno camaro: That is exactly what I was talking about for oil control. After a pass I have to shut it off or pressure goes to 0 on decel even if not on the brakes. If I hit the brakes hard stopping after my burnout pressure will drop enough to make my pressure light flash so going below 20lbs. Checked bearings after 50 passes and looked new, they have 275 passes now. Just pulled the engine but haven't looked at anything yet. I do run 20/50 per the builder. Engine only carries 60-65lbs pressure when warm. I could change the spring and up the pressure. It has a melling billet pump and Moroso Aluminum pan. I installed drain back lines and that didn't seem to help the situation. I have a Moroso 4 vane pump. Have considered a flat bottom pan also. I stage at 170-175 and seems to be about .01 quicker than if I stage at 160. | |||
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DRR Trophy |
I run 8 qts, I have had as much as 9 in it with no noticeable difference. I have never tried less. Drain backs are in the rear lower part of the head and I used #8 line.
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| DRR Top Comp |
If you put a small kit on it, inject it with gasoline. All ya need is a one gallon fuel cell with a Holley black pump in the nose. Use a progressor to get it out of the gate clean and spray it to the shift, after the drop back to 6400 (600 tighter converter), after the shift, turn it off with a timer. The engine will go flat on the tighter converter and cross 7500 at 140mph low 4.90 easy any time of the year. You'll only use the progressor for 5-6 hundredths, leave on say 50% and ramp the rest in. Use the progressor and the timer to turn it off according to conditions and how quick you need to run, in order to qualify for each race. Simple. | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
Although Retread above is on Ignore, a quote from My Cousin Vinny comes to mind: Everything that guy said is B u l l S h i t!!! Sorry but I couldn't resist. | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
JUST BOLT A 250 BLOWER AND YOURE THERE.  Michael Frizie ET 2471 | |||
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| DRR Trophy |
Don't think it will fit. My rack is only about 1" in front of my mandrel now.
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| DRR Top Comp |
The OP doesn't have an under powered over tire'd cookie cutter dragster like you. The OP has a home built 68 Camaro already on the edge of traction / handling, going 5.0's , 4.9's. | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
This will be the quickest and least expensive way to pick up .200. Like I said in a earlier post, I went from mid 4.70s to low 4.50s with a 200 shot turned on early for 2 secs in a 565 dragster with a Rons terminator and never changed the converter. I will say it did not do much other than raise the RPM and blow thru the converter when I tried using it to drive the stripe, but turning it on at like .300 and off just past the shift it made a huge difference without a converter swap, your results may vary  | |||
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| DRR Sportsman |
You gonna build some shocks for him and scale his car too? | |||
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| DRR Trophy |
Traction is no longer an issue with the new Penske shocks and getting weight off the front with aluminum block. Seems to work and handle very well now.
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| DRR Trophy |
I agree with this. I have a buddy with a 5 flat dragster and he sprays 190 for somewhere in 2.5-3 second range in the middle of the run and goes mid 4.70's.
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| DRR Top Comp |
So ya got a buddy with a under powered over tire'd 5 flat dragster who turns on the spray 3 tenths out, and you think this somehow equates to what you have going on 700 lbs heavier, short wheel base comparatively speaking? It's gonna be no wonder if you never win a drag race. That's called wishful thinking, is what that's called. Ya wanna be competitive, I told ya how to do it. Any Tom, Dyck or Harry can pickup a couple tenths spraying 200, that's not the issue at hand. The issue is being a BMF to be reckoned with, off the trailer. It's a bracket race, top sportsman race, not a hey look at me race, I picked up two tenths spraying. | |||
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| DRR Trophy |
Did I say I was going to do that? NO, I was responding to someone else's comment not yours. If I need to change converters to run spray I'll just forget the whole deal. It was only to get in the field on an occasional race not race with it. It will be ran NA 95% of the time. Thanks for the input.
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| DRR S/Pro |
My reason for adding the nitrous to my dragster was basically for the same reasons as you, at the time we had a really good quick 16 open wheel class with our local bracket program. I DNQ with a 4.7x one Saturday night. I added the NX system and never DNQ again. Unless I just wanted to go fast I ran the regular SP race on motor. Nitrous can be addicting but also can be a PITA too with keeping bottles full and maintaining consistent bottle pressure. | |||
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DRR Trophy |
Nitrous looks like your best option. In my testing, my sr20 632 ran within .02 in the same conditions regardless if I ran a loose 9 inch converter (6700 RPM @ 0.25) or a somewhat snug 10 inch converter (6000 RPM @ 0.25). I choose to run the 10 inch converter and it does not lack any consistency. This allows me to run between mid 470s - 490 all year NA but I have the option to turn on NOS and run low 450s on 1 system. | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
I've been thinking of trying to use a converter dump to switch between nos and n/a. | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
The Hughes brand is the one to use for that. It dumps on both sides of the converter fill and exhaust. Timer is all ya need once you have the mechanical end of it covered. For the OP starting off, changing the converter for these races couldn't be too complicated. | |||
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