Retard, no matter how many posts you make everyone here knows exactly what you are, a nobody and hack who assembles Chinese junk for a few local to you clueless and naive fools but no one here is ever going to have you, assemble their trans no mind their race engine.

Know nothing, do nothing, crate engine buying dork, stop drooling all over while following me around in here, and go breast feed your driver for God's sake! He's probably starving by now!

Again retard, NO ONE here is ever going to have you, an Internet forum hack assemble a trans, no mind a race engine for them.

I rolled across the scales at US131 this fall and was 2450lbs.

quote:

Originally posted by 67TSCHEVY2:
what does the car weigh

Maybe it's been said, but I don't think you're going to get what you're looking for naturally aspirated, in a conventional head.

https://imgur.com/a/1bJYXnI

typical run 2500DA

imo you are getting close to all out of the current combo. i just do not see gear , converter or tire or all 3 picking it up that much. i had a steel 68 camaro that was 2465 with driver and it took a lot of effort to get it that light and it would run high 4.80,s with a 12* 632 in the heat.

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
Again retard, NO ONE here is ever going to have you, an Internet forum hack assemble a trans, no mind a race engine for them.

Again b i t c h t i t s, you're a 5 2" tall know nothing, do nothing parts changer with a check book who must've heard a rumor I was doing someone's engine, and this is your wormy way of being nosey. I'm not doing anyone's engine, I wouldn't have time even if it were true. I have more work now, with people breathing down my neck for more work, I don't have the time for.

So STFU and go breast feed your driver.

“It's past noon, should you be breast feeding your driver nazi milk? Big Grin”


Please stop I’m gonna hurt myself from laughing

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
“It's past noon, should you be breast feeding your driver nazi milk? Big Grin”


Please stop I’m gonna hurt myself from laughing

Nazi milk, their secret weapon for winning 5 round big money gambler races, at some track nobody's ever been to, or heard of.

The least amount of pain to run Quick 16 or whatever your faster class is add a 100-300 shot and be done. A 100 shot from after the shift would put my brother's 7.80 dragster to just above 7.50 to qualify. Then you just need to know how close to your qualifying pass you need to be for eliminations. Sometimes you won't need to spray after making the show. Depending on your combo, the button may add about 250-300rpm at the stripe.

This is the way I'm leaning. Don't think there is any rule on running within a certain amount from qualifying. I've heard of some tracks doing that but don't believe my locals do it. I have another center section with a 4.30 gear I could put in. If I do add spray I'll probably set up a 4.56 and forget it.

quote:

Originally posted by Rick!:
The least amount of pain to run Quick 16 or whatever your faster class is add a 100-300 shot and be done. A 100 shot from after the shift would put my brother's 7.80 dragster to just above 7.50 to qualify. Then you just need to know how close to your qualifying pass you need to be for eliminations. Sometimes you won't need to spray after making the show. Depending on your combo, the button may add about 250-300rpm at the stripe.

quote:

This is the way I'm leaning. Don't think there is any rule on running within a certain amount from qualifying. I've heard of some tracks doing that but don't believe my locals do it. I have another center section with a 4.30 gear I could put in. If I do add spray I'll probably set up a 4.56 and forget it.

Probably your best bet with what your goals are. It shouldn’t take much jet/long time if turned on early to get that .15 you were looking for. You intend to spray using Alcohol? Or you going to set that side up on gasoline? – just curious.

Our local program (KK in Ohio) has a minimum ET dial for door cars and dragsters. Then you have to dial within .1 of your qualifying pass during eliminations. Generally a pretty good program and tight fields.

What is the ET brake for door cars and any idea what it takes to get in? That is one on of the places I hope to hit up next year. Muncie is 5.10 or faster so I can usually make that one with no spray since they went to 16 car field.
Would rather run everything on same fuel but I have zero experience with spray but have friends that do. I would leave that up to someone more knowledgeable than myself on the subject.

quote:

Originally posted by Jerry Kathe:

quote:

This is the way I'm leaning. Don't think there is any rule on running within a certain amount from qualifying. I've heard of some tracks doing that but don't believe my locals do it. I have another center section with a 4.30 gear I could put in. If I do add spray I'll probably set up a 4.56 and forget it.

Probably your best bet with what your goals are. It shouldn’t take much jet/long time if turned on early to get that .15 you were looking for. You intend to spray using Alcohol? Or you going to set that side up on gasoline? – just curious.

Our local program (KK in Ohio) has a minimum ET dial for door cars and dragsters. Then you have to dial within .1 of your qualifying pass during eliminations. Generally a pretty good program and tight fields.

You can change the gear but you're just complicating matters.

You could also just put a converter 600 rpm lower stall, spray 150 from the hit for x amount of seconds, to go low 4.90 at 140 mph crossing 7500rpm.

The bigger gains in et are in the front half.

This principle for power doesn't apply for nitrous.


HP = Torque x RPM ÷ 5252

Nitrous can make twice the torque.

All you need is a converter and a nitrous progressor, to speed up the front half efficiently - repetitively.

Either way you'll need a converter.

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
This principle for power doesn't apply for nitrous.


HP = Torque x RPM ÷ 5252

Nitrous can make twice the torque.

All you need is a converter and a nitrous progressor, to speed up the front half efficiently - repetitively.

Either way you'll need a converter.

Every now and then I take you off ignore for a few minutes just to get a good laugh,, and saw this dumb a s s post...

Got news for you, HP is always = to T x RPM!!! But then again you certainly live in a different world than the rest of us... so maybe the laws of physics don't apply there, just like the timing cone you hit...

You also do not need a tighter converter to pick up .10-.15 in the 1/8! A 150/175 HP shot will easily pick him up that and then some unless his converter is way tooo loose NA!!

You may now carry on with your babble..

Ignore Engaged!

quote:

Originally posted by TOP38:

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
This principle for power doesn't apply for nitrous.


HP = Torque x RPM ÷ 5252

Nitrous can make twice the torque.

All you need is a converter and a nitrous progressor, to speed up the front half efficiently - repetitively.

Either way you'll need a converter.

Every now and then I take you off ignore for a few minutes just to get a good laugh,, and saw this dumb a s s post...

Got news for you, HP is always = to T x RPM!!! But then again you certainly live in a different world than the rest of us... so maybe the laws of physics don't apply there, just like the timing cone you hit...

You also do not need a tighter converter to pick up .10-.15 in the 1/8! A 150/175 HP shot will easily pick him up that and then some unless his converter is way tooo loose NA!!

You may now carry on with your babble..

Ignore Engaged!

You have no one on ignore, the least of which me. Quit your lying, you sad excuse for a human indecent POS.

Nitrous makes its own air, at lower rpm it can make twice the torque at the rear wheels. We're talking 60ft - torque at the rear tire.

The indecent sad excuse for a human being POS Top 38 is talking at peak hp where the engine requires more air to make max hp.

He's also wrong about the converter, if the converter is 6400 now, with 150 shot it'll be a 7000 converter.

All ya gotta do is kick it in the ass off the starting line to qualify anywhere, from where the OP is now at 140 mph.

This is the math for nitrous whatever given leave rpm is used.

We'll say 4400rpm as example as leave rpm, as an example we'll say the OP's engine makes 1000 hp

1193 Torque = 1000hp x 5252 / 4400rpm

1193 pd ft torque at 4400 rpm.

TOP38 is clueless.

If you add 150hp nitrous, you need 600 less rpm stall

If you add 200hp nitrous,you need 800 less rpm stall.

600 tighter converter and a nitrous progressor is all the OP needs.

Progress the nitrous on till just after the shift turn it off, the engine will go flat on the tighter converter, and cross at 7500 140 mph. low 4.90 easy.

The sooner the nitrous is progressed to 100% after trans brake release, the quicker the et.