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Rear shocks for 4.70-4.90 door car
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Picture of inferno camaro
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quote:
Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
quote:
Originally posted by inferno camaro:
I have no issue with the JRI shocks I just wish I would have went with the better ones. 5 clicks is just not much adjustment. With that said I will call and see if they can do a progressive valving or a 2 way clicker or what ever you called it. I got them from competitive suspension solutions.


See what they say. If it's a no go hit me up. We'll go through the measurements again. We were only .125 - .250 thou off perfect amount of shaft showing, weren't we?


I honestly don't remember. I think the issue was my ride height is around 14.5" (if I remember right) and if I unhook the shocks and jack it up 18" is max the rear will drop to, and if set it down and the rear will bottom at 12" so it has a max of 6" travel.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: inferno camaro,
 
Posts: 357 | Location: Indiana | Registered: January 20, 2020Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by inferno camaro:
quote:
Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
quote:
Originally posted by inferno camaro:
I have no issue with the JRI shocks I just wish I would have went with the better ones. 5 clicks is just not much adjustment. With that said I will call and see if they can do a progressive valving or a 2 way clicker or what ever you called it. I got them from competitive suspension solutions.


See what they say. If it's a no go hit me up. We'll go through the measurements again. We were only .125 - .250 thou off perfect amount of shaft showing, weren't we?


I honestly don't remember. I think the issue was my ride height is around 14.5" (if I remember right) and if I unhook the shocks and jack it up 18" is max the rear will drop to, and if set it down and the rear will bottom at 12" so it has a max of 6" travel.


I think that would put the TTX at .375 off from where we'd like the shaft. But how much shaft do ya have showing now 4" at ride height? Is it 4" of shaft showing now?
 
Posts: 9398 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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It's been awhile, but I think what it was we wanted a 7" stroke damper on it 4.90 - 5.00 doorslammer. When that didn't work out we were ok somewhat with a 6", until we couldn't get the shaft showing center 3".

Run everything by JRI we've spoken of in here, hopefully it's 2 way clicker compatible. But if not and you've been running it all this time with 4" of shaft showing, you're ok with it. Maybe we help can ya. Really rather see a 7" stroke on it. To do it right the first time for you sir.
 
Posts: 9398 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The JRI shock is 17" extended and 12" compressed 2.5" of shaft showing at ride height.
 
Posts: 357 | Location: Indiana | Registered: January 20, 2020Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Originally posted by inferno camaro:
The JRI shock is 17" extended and 12" compressed 2.5" of shaft showing at ride height.


Oh ok, so I got it backwards, it's been awhile.

The same principle apply's, slightly worse scenario close on compression.

Keep me posted inferno, hopefully they can get ya some range of ajustability two way compression clicker.
 
Posts: 9398 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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FWIW, before this becomes a total sh*t show I have Strange Ultras on my car. Its been 1.02 60' NA with a BBM. I can make the car work on great tracks and crappy tracks, just takes some adjustment. I also has air Konis with sweeps before and just never found a "sweet" spot for them for my car. I am sure I could have sent them back to Lamb to be redone again but on the advice of a "big name" shock guy went with the Strange Ultras.


"I am not ashamed to confess I am ignorant of what I do not know."
Marcus Tullius Cicero
 
Posts: 977 | Location: Las Vegas, NV | Registered: April 14, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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My shocks are not upgradeable to air or 3 or 4 way. Marc at JRI says air dump shocks would be the best way to accomplish what I'm after.
 
Posts: 357 | Location: Indiana | Registered: January 20, 2020Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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Originally posted by Al Alguire:
FWIW, before this becomes a total sh*t show I have Strange Ultras on my car. Its been 1.02 60' NA with a BBM. I can make the car work on great tracks and crappy tracks, just takes some adjustment. I also has air Konis with sweeps before and just never found a "sweet" spot for them for my car. I am sure I could have sent them back to Lamb to be redone again but on the advice of a "big name" shock guy went with the Strange Ultras.


What to you change to make it work on rough tracks? Does it seem to adversely affect the 60' performance?
 
Posts: 357 | Location: Indiana | Registered: January 20, 2020Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Originally posted by inferno camaro:
My shocks are not upgradeable to air or 3 or 4 way. Marc at JRI says air dump shocks would be the best way to accomplish what I'm after.


If I get time I'll make a video using a damper dyno graph to explain what you're looking for, to better cope with bumpy conditions.

I was working with a guy text & email while he was testing a new set of Ohlins LMP's at Island Dragway he had just taken delivery of, low 5 second vanishing point chassis car. Island is a bumpy track. First thing I suggested when made aware, was to suggest letting air out of the front tires. We got a noticeable improvement in the driveshaft immediately, and moved on to optimizing clicker settings.

If you test this week try that.
 
Posts: 9398 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
quote:
Originally posted by inferno camaro:
My shocks are not upgradeable to air or 3 or 4 way. Marc at JRI says air dump shocks would be the best way to accomplish what I'm after.


If I get time I'll make a video using a damper dyno graph to explain what you're looking for, to better cope with bumpy conditions.

I was working with a guy text & email while he was testing a new set of Ohlins LMP's at Island Dragway he had just taken delivery of, low 5 second vanishing point chassis car. Island is a bumpy track. First thing I suggested when made aware, was to suggest letting air out of the front tires. We got a noticeable improvement in the driveshaft immediately, and moved on to optimizing clicker settings.

If you test this week try that.


I wish, its snowing here right now. Frown
 
Posts: 357 | Location: Indiana | Registered: January 20, 2020Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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Give Shane a call with competitive suspension solutions. I would send them to him with numbers of the scaled chassis and other specs.
 
Posts: 783 | Location: Georgia | Registered: May 09, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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disagree, do you really think JRI, one of the best, if not the best in the business can't setup their own shocks?
 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Originally posted by 1320racer:
disagree, do you really think JRI, one of the best, if not the best in the business can't setup their own shocks?


Purchased my JRI shocks from Shane and had them custom valved and was extremely happy. I was also happy with the customer service after the purchase. Called Shane after the first hit and sent videos and he offered suggestions for improvement and adjustments to make. After a few passes Shane was satisfied and so was I.

Not sure how old the OPs shocks are, could be somewhere in the comments that I did not see. Shocks, like anything, should be freshened from time to time.
 
Posts: 783 | Location: Georgia | Registered: May 09, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Originally posted by racerdude2054:
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Originally posted by 1320racer:
disagree, do you really think JRI, one of the best, if not the best in the business can't setup their own shocks?


Purchased my JRI shocks from Shane and had them custom valved and was extremely happy. I was also happy with the customer service after the purchase. Called Shane after the first hit and sent videos and he offered suggestions for improvement and adjustments to make. After a few passes Shane was satisfied and so was I.

Not sure how old the OPs shocks are, could be somewhere in the comments that I did not see. Shocks, like anything, should be freshened from time to time.


I bought them from Shane last year.
 
Posts: 357 | Location: Indiana | Registered: January 20, 2020Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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Originally posted by racerdude2054:
Shocks, like anything, should be freshened from time to time.

don't agree. My shocks in the Firebird are 16 and 10 years old and 7 years in my dragster. Both cars work and are deadly!

Don't "freshen" my torque converters either.
 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I'd recommend them too. Several strong attributes about Strange Ultra's. Separating piston not a gas bag in cannister, gas emulsion damper.

For what they are, they're inexpensive. Real deal damper. Inline or piggy back

Made in USA

 
Posts: 9398 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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Do you know where your 4 link is set at? Crank centerline? and corner weights? I may not be able to help, but I can tell you this is the reason for Koni sweeps and why other shocks "dump" air. What makes this interesting is that I don't think 4.90's is really a window for sweeps. I go 4.90's and have used a few pairs of Afco's on bumpy and smooth tracks. My best is a 1.062 60' and was 4.92. I'm wondering if other parts of the car need to be honed in a bit.
 
Posts: 1364 | Location: Lansing,Mi | Registered: March 20, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Bingo!
 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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As with anything, one part can make or break a combo but it can also be in the combo too! This is a case where a data logger with shock travel would allow you to get to the root of the issue much faster than WAG's from all on this site including me! Your car doesn't have a large sweet spot with respect to track conditions and the rear shocks are just one piece of your combo. You haven't mentioned anything about the fronts! or how the car leaves! Also you noted that the car works best on full stiff in the first 150', that's a big red flag that could mean the shocks aren't valved correctly or it's a crutch for the real issue! There is also no friggin reason you need 3 or 4 way shocks with air dumps for this combo! If you believe that then Mike Retread has the perfect shocks for you! You may need to have your rear shocks re-valved but you certainly have other issues that you need to find and address first...

As for shock maintenance, if you have a set of shocks without gas pressure, if they aren't leaking you are probably wasting your money having them serviced, if you have gas charged shocks and they don't hold pressure then I'd have them serviced. As far as entry level, mid level and high end shocks go, the faster your car is the more benefits you will see from the high end stuff. I drive a TS S10 for one of my buddies, it has a set of AFCO's from 1996 in that truck and run's 4.60's in the 1/8. The truck is very consistent. The shocks have never been out of the truck,,, however it's time to upgrade.
 
Posts: 2125 | Location: Tewksbury, MA,USA | Registered: November 03, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Originally posted by TOP38:
As with anything, one part can make or break a combo but it can also be in the combo too! This is a case where a data logger with shock travel would allow you to get to the root of the issue much faster than WAG's from all on this site including me! Your car doesn't have a large sweet spot with respect to track conditions and the rear shocks are just one piece of your combo. You haven't mentioned anything about the fronts! or how the car leaves! Also you noted that the car works best on full stiff in the first 150', that's a big red flag that could mean the shocks aren't valved correctly or it's a crutch for the real issue! There is also no friggin reason you need 3 or 4 way shocks with air dumps for this combo! If you believe that then Mike Retread has the perfect shocks for you! You may need to have your rear shocks re-valved but you certainly have other issues that you need to find and address first...

As for shock maintenance, if you have a set of shocks without gas pressure, if they aren't leaking you are probably wasting your money having them serviced, if you have gas charged shocks and they don't hold pressure then I'd have them serviced. As far as entry level, mid level and high end shocks go, the faster your car is the more benefits you will see from the high end stuff. I drive a TS S10 for one of my buddies, it has a set of AFCO's from 1996 in that truck and run's 4.60's in the 1/8. The truck is very consistent. The shocks have never been out of the truck,,, however it's time to upgrade.


The car works really well on smooth tracks, most here won't race on tracks as rough as some of my local tracks. It may be as simple as they are simply too rough. There was a 4.80 dragster there the last time I was there and he loaded up and went home it was so rough. Strange struts up front, car leaves with tires 6-8" up on the bars. LF643 RF560 LR593 RR603
 
Posts: 357 | Location: Indiana | Registered: January 20, 2020Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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