I have JRI sportsman shocks on the rear of my car now. On a nice smooth track it works well. On local rough tracks it is too stiff down track and will un-settle the chassis. If I loosen the shocks it helps down track but the 60' suffers. Is there a better shock that will do both or is it just a give and take situation on crappy tracks? The car runs 4.90's-5.0's now and 4.70's would probably be the the most I'll ever try to push it.

Have you adjusted the rebound and compression over it's full range starting in the middle of each range? If not do that first and if still too stiff and assuming you have the right springs on them, send them back to be revalved.

quote:

Originally posted by inferno camaro:
I have JRI sportsman shocks on the rear of my car now. On a nice smooth track it works well. On local rough tracks it is too stiff down track and will un-settle the chassis. If I loosen the shocks it helps down track but the 60' suffers. Is there a better shock that will do both or is it just a give and take situation on crappy tracks? The car runs 4.90's-5.0's now and 4.70's would probably be the the most I'll ever try to push it.

Clickers have 4 clicks of adjustment on both rebound and compression correct?

You've had the clickers every which way to Sunday I'm sure.

Penske or Ohlins I'd suggest. You'll have far wider range of adjustment.

This set has 70 clicks on rebound alone. 70 compression.

Infinite relatively speaking.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
Have you adjusted the rebound and compression over it's full range starting in the middle of each range? If not do that first and if still too stiff and assuming you have the right springs on them, send them back to be revalved.

Yes I've been all over. It works best at near full stiff for best ET on smooth tracks but most my local tracks are less than ideal to say the least. If I loosen them it smooths down track but short time consistency suffers. My nearest track has a rough transition and the car will start to almost buck when it hits it.

send them back to JRI and have this conversation. Also give them the 4 corner weights with you in the seat.

There's no magic shock, just the right valving combine with the right spring(s).

FYI, the Afco shocks on the rear of my car are 16 years old and have never been rebuilt.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...LI0&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...uVE&feature=youtu.be

They have 5 clicks compression 16 sweeps extension. It works well very stiff up front but seems to need to be softer after I get it rolling.

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:

quote:

Originally posted by inferno camaro:
I have JRI sportsman shocks on the rear of my car now. On a nice smooth track it works well. On local rough tracks it is too stiff down track and will un-settle the chassis. If I loosen the shocks it helps down track but the 60' suffers. Is there a better shock that will do both or is it just a give and take situation on crappy tracks? The car runs 4.90's-5.0's now and 4.70's would probably be the the most I'll ever try to push it.

Clickers have 4 clicks of adjustment on both rebound and compression correct?

You've had the clickers every which way to Sunday I'm sure.

Penske or Ohlins I'd suggest. You'll have far wider range of adjustment.

They have 5 clicks on compression and 16 sweeps on extension. They work well just seems to need to be very stiff up front and would be better if softer after I get it rolling.

This set has 70 clicks on rebound alone. 70 compression.

Infinite relatively speaking.

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:

Clickers have 4 clicks of adjustment on both rebound and compression correct?

quote:

Originally posted by inferno camaro:

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:

quote:

Originally posted by inferno camaro:
I have JRI sportsman shocks on the rear of my car now. On a nice smooth track it works well. On local rough tracks it is too stiff down track and will un-settle the chassis. If I loosen the shocks it helps down track but the 60' suffers. Is there a better shock that will do both or is it just a give and take situation on crappy tracks? The car runs 4.90's-5.0's now and 4.70's would probably be the the most I'll ever try to push it.

Clickers have 4 clicks of adjustment on both rebound and compression correct?

You've had the clickers every which way to Sunday I'm sure.

Penske or Ohlins I'd suggest. You'll have far wider range of adjustment.


This set has 70 clicks on rebound alone. 70 compression.

Infinite relatively speaking.

They have 5 clicks on compression and 16 sweeps on extension. They work well just seems to need to be very stiff up front and would be better if softer after I get it rolling.

Ok, you can do that with a two way adjuster set the high speed clicker stiff, low speed clicker loose, relatively speaking.

Ohlins TTX, it can be done rebound and compression.

I gave them the weights when I had it built. It works best first 150' full stiff and works well. 1.08-1.11 60' depending on weather and track conditions but will get upset on bumps down track on local tracks. If I soften them up it works better down track but short times suffer. I may just be to the point its not going to work on small rough surface tracks.

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
send them back to JRI and have this conversation. Also give them the 4 corner weights with you in the seat.

There's no magic shock, just the right valving combine with the right spring(s).

FYI, the Afco shocks on the rear of my car are 16 years old and have never been rebuilt.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...LI0&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...uVE&feature=youtu.be

A good damper you could put on it is a Koni. Have Jerry Bickle valve them. Buy em from him, they're relatively inexpensive and worked on Pro Stockers for years, well.

I ran a set he did for years before going to a TTX. They are nowhere near as good as a TTX but they are good.

Just a step below Penske or Ohlins

no reason to start from scratch with a new shock/builder. JRI is one of the best in the business. Call them, work with them, they will get it right assuming there is no other issue with the car/suspension.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by inferno camaro:
I gave them the weights when I had it built. It works best first 150' full stiff and works well. 1.08-1.11 60' depending on weather and track conditions but will get upset on bumps down track on local tracks. If I soften them up it works better down track but short times suffer. I may just be to the point its not going to work on small rough surface tracks.

[QUOTE]

You could discuss digressive bump/compression valving with JRI. You gotta know the lingo/terminology to use to communicate what you're looking for based on your seat of the pants analysis. Most likely they give you something safe, they know, for your power level. It's kinda up to you to take it a higher level to suit the car. JRI does a lot of it's R & D on smooth national event surfaces.

Call me sometime, I'll walk you through what to ask for. With that few clicks available, range of adjustment is a little limited. You could really use a two way adjuster on compression.

That may be the first question to inquire on, if the dampers you have, are compatible for a two way bump clicker.

With a two way bump clicker, you'll develop settings you run on smooth surfaces separate what you run on bumpy surfaces, same as a pro stocker does.

quote:

Originally posted by inferno camaro:
I gave them the weights when I had it built. It works best first 150' full stiff and works well. 1.08-1.11 60' depending on weather and track conditions but will get upset on bumps down track on local tracks. If I soften them up it works better down track but short times suffer. I may just be to the point its not going to work on small rough surface tracks.

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
send them back to JRI and have this conversation. Also give them the 4 corner weights with you in the seat.

There's no magic shock, just the right valving combine with the right spring(s).

FYI, the Afco shocks on the rear of my car are 16 years old and have never been rebuilt.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...LI0&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...uVE&feature=youtu.be

SHOCKS might not be the problem....

Inferno, here's an example of the approach and lingo to use when you call JRI.

The main thing is to find out if the dampers you have now, are compatible for a two way bump clicker to be incorporated.

This is why when you and I spoke, I highly suggested the TTX. It has two way bump clicker compatibility, the LMP you also considered, does not.

I think Ed has given the best advice, talk with the shock manufacture, it may be just a simple re-valve like he said. I had Strange re-valve some shocks for me once and it made all the different in the world as far as the car responding to the shock adjustment.

In no way am I recommending switching to Afco shocks, just using them as an example but I have them on my dragster and they have 30 plus clicks available on both compression and extension. At first I thought that many would be confusing but actually has worked out great because you can make very fine adjustments with each click instead of large ones with each click with 5 click shocks.

The OP isn't looking for advice.

He's looking for suggestions (idea's) Tech 4.70 -4.90 door car.

If every tech thread ended in call the manufacture, is this a tech section?

The tech is the OP needs a two way clicker on compression. I suggest (tech) he find out if his current damper is compatible.

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
Inferno, here's an example of the approach and lingo to use when you call JRI.

The main thing is to find out if the dampers you have now, are compatible for a two way bump clicker to be incorporated.

This is why when you and I spoke, I highly suggested the TTX. It has two way bump clicker compatibility, the LMP you also considered, does not.

I really wish the ohlins would have fit but that was not a viable option at the time.

quote:

Originally posted by inferno camaro:

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
Inferno, here's an example of the approach and lingo to use when you call JRI.

The main thing is to find out if the dampers you have now, are compatible for a two way bump clicker to be incorporated.

This is why when you and I spoke, I highly suggested the TTX. It has two way bump clicker compatibility, the LMP you also considered, does not.

I really wish the ohlins would have fit but that was not a viable option at the time.

The point in mentioning it, is to point out as I did at the time, plan ahead.

Hopefully the JRI you have now is 2 way clicker compatible on compression. That's really what you need.

Knowing how hard you work at it, you'll get good with the clicker for each surface.

I have no issue with the JRI shocks I just wish I would have went with the better ones. 5 clicks is just not much adjustment. With that said I will call and see if they can do a progressive valving or a 2 way clicker or what ever you called it. I got them from competitive suspension solutions.

quote:

Originally posted by inferno camaro:
I have no issue with the JRI shocks I just wish I would have went with the better ones. 5 clicks is just not much adjustment. With that said I will call and see if they can do a progressive valving or a 2 way clicker or what ever you called it. I got them from competitive suspension solutions.

See what they say. If it's a no go hit me up. We'll go through the measurements again. We were only .125 - .250 thou off perfect amount of shaft showing, weren't we?