who has 1st hand experience with Braille's B168L 16V Lithium battery? My son wants to try it, (1) battery for the 40 lb. weigh savings over our XS POWER D1600.

quote:

Originally posted by 67TSCHEVY2:
I've done the 16v braille lithium deal and was less than impressed with it overall.

Let's here about it...cold starts, driven to the lanes and from the ticket booth, double entry, round robin, less than 10 minutes to charge, can it skip a charge between late rounds, any issues bumping the starter to check/set valves?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1320racer,

Tesla, Ford, GM.......and several racers operations that have burned to the ground in recent years.....

I'll keep my AGM. Weight savings of approx 15-20 lbs (you'll need two batteries plus mounting to even come close to same capacity) isn't going to do anything for et....I've gone as many as five rounds with fuel pump, ignition, water pump, and fan running on my XS Power D1600 without recharging and no alternator....There are easier and MUCH LESS EXPENSIVE ways to save a few pounds...I'm not a fan of anything lithium, including tools. I know a lot are very fond of them, but they WILL fail at the absolute worst possible times and without warning since they have virtually 100% output until they don't......

I just don't see any benefit to running them at all....just my $.00005 for what it's worth...

I have a Alltronics but only have a half season on it. It has quick starts and very fast at charging. The battery weighs 8 LBS pretty much the same as Braille`s. I think it`s worth it especially knocking 40LBS off the car.

Paul, I’m only interested in the specific Braille battery. That said, 2 friends used to run Altronics lithium battery for years. as of last season they now run a pair of Go Lithium batteries.

What problems did they have with Altronics.

None when they were running them cold starts and slow cranking in later rounds is what I was told after they swapped.

They said one Braille lithium has the same pulse cranking amps as two Go Lithium.

Altronics has been doing them about as long as any of them. A lot has changed in 10 years. Do any of them offer a 4 yr warranty like Altronics? I haven't looked.

I've tested and used many versions from them and couldn't be happier with the ones we've used for the past 5 years. I'd suggest at least calling and talking to Fred. That is what sold me.

I’m not a fan of Fred.

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
There will never be a lithium battery in my cars as they have proven to be unstable in planes, race cars, phones, computers, hoover boards, etc.

When the big 3 install them as standard equipment in all their passenger cars and trucks, maybe then I'll change my mind.

How about sticking to some of your convictions.

FYI my 2023 Chevy Duramax High Country still has 12V batteries.

2BKING is making your keyboarding work for you.

Not in yet and if one gets installed, one of our marketing partners is paying for it

I'm trying to talk Costelllllooo into one.

A guy I do his transmission runs one, he says his starts as good / better than any.

Says Costelllloooo needs a House of Payne and an altenater.

Car goes 4.30 4.40. His brother won a ADRL Pro Mod World Championship, so they ain't slouches when it comes to IQ.

If I had a dragster it would have a oil pressure gauge/delay box/aluminum engine and a lithium battery, nothing else-figuretively speaking.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

Always deflecting from your keyboard dribble, but them are the facts straight from your keyboard.

2BKING

Broke dyck you’ve got no first hand experience with this battery nor do you have the coin to install one in that pos you call a race car.

I'll bet they were paid for by a Marketing Partner also!

Just trying to help you out buddy, using your own keyboard dribble. You don't like your own FACTS!

2BKING

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
A Lithium Pro battery was in Dave Connelly's/Gray's pro stock car a few years that started fire at a national event.

NO THANKS!

There will never be a lithium battery in my cars as they have proven to be unstable in planes, race cars, phones, computers, hoover boards, etc.

When the big 3 install them as standard equipment in all their passenger cars and trucks, maybe then I'll change my mind.

Broke dyck again you confirm to all that the only reason you are here is me and you read everything I post hoping to learn something that will have your POS running quicker, faster and more consistent.

Useless loser pile of Excrement said for years that 12 volt system is all you need and if you go to 16 volt it is because you are Band-Aid to a problem.
Then Ediot goes to 16 Volt and is bragging about how great it is.
Then Loser says if you go with a Lithium battery it will burn your car down. Loser says No Thanks there will never be a Lithium battery in my cars.

Now Loser wants Lithium battery......

But I have a question for Loser Ediot. If you say "Your Marketing Partner will pay for it", will Marketing Partner pay for car if it burns to ground like you say they do? Or are you talking out your anal passage about something you know nothing about as usual?

No need to answer that we all know the answer.

Less than desirable from my experience with the Braille and I bought the charger and battery combo new for my previous t/s car. 1. It just didn't seem to provide adequate amps after a couple of starts in the lanes. 2. Cold temps made it virtually useless unless you kept it warm in the LQ thru the night racing or warmed it before. Bumping the starter seemed to drag it down also. 10 minutes is a fallacy on charging if pulled down also. 3. Never...ever...ever let a lithium battery fully discharge because they can change polarity. 4. My new car doesn't have a lithium battery and this ain't comp or Pro stock so keep the antique heavy battery and your money imho.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 67TSCHEVY2,

quote:

Broke dyck again you confirm to all that the only reason you are here is me and you read everything I post hoping to learn something that will have your POS running quicker, faster and more consistent.

I'm here to read everyone's threads & posts! I don't want to learn how to be a first 1st round DUCK, like you were for many years. Then you quit racing to become a keyboard racer; tired of being LOSER! The only thing special about you is being Special ED, the Forum(s) Fool.

Keep on lurking/reading everything I post in my "Updating Our Racing Program" thread. Then you regurgitate the information in other threads. So, I know you read all my threads/posts.

2BKING telling the real Truth & Facts to our Special EDiot.

I’ve got the big checks, I’ve got the Wallys and you ain’t got either. Further, I stepped out of seat to focus on making my son one of the best bracket & class racer in the country under 30 and 5 years later mission accomplished! Division champ, 2x runner up in division, Jegs All Star, #4 in the world, $5, 10, 20 and 50k big $ winner.

Now As I’ve told you before broke dyck I’ll kick your ass on or off the track all you have to do is show up!

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1320racer,

quote:

Originally posted by 67TSCHEVY2:
Less than desirable from my experience with the Braille and I bought the charger and battery combo new for my previous t/s car. 1. It just didn't seem to provide adequate amps after a couple of starts in the lanes. 2. Cold temps made it virtually useless unless you kept it warm in the LQ thru the night racing or warmed it before. Bumping the starter seemed to drag it down also. 10 minutes is a fallacy on charging if pulled down also. 3. Never...ever...ever let a lithium battery fully discharge because they can change polarity. 4. My new car doesn't have a lithium battery and this ain't comp or Pro stock so keep the antique heavy battery and your money imho.

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