My sons want me to update my wheels, but I'm fine with what I got. I'm a function over looks guy & the current wheels wins rounds/races. The one son offered to buy the new wheels & I said that's the only way it will get done. I'm looking at the RC Comp Series wheels with a single beadlock. I would prefer a dual beadlock, but my understanding it's hard to mount the wheel with a lot of backspacing. The current rim 15x9 with a 5.5 backspacing. Does the issue have to do with the brake caliper when mounting on car?

I plan on doing the initial testing on the current wheels/tires & may not even need the beadlocks. The tires are 29.5x 10.5 Mickey Pro Bracket Radials.

Old school here. You know the saying, if it isn't broke, Don't fix it. A lot of them are an image thing. Got to have that look. unless your pushing 1500 and spinning the tire.

Depending on what rear calipers you have will dictate if you can use a double, I have older wilwoods and doubles will not clear the caliper.

quote:

Originally posted by TD3550:
Old school here. You know the saying, if it isn't broke, Don't fix it. A lot of them are an image thing. Got to have that look. unless your pushing 1500 and spinning the tire.

No image thing here & only plan on 1000 max, even though the ProCharger is capable of more.

quote:

Originally posted by HR3377:
Depending on what rear calipers you have will dictate if you can use a double, I have older wilwoods and doubles will not clear the caliper.

The rear came with the Moser brake set-up. Probably don't need the beadlocks anyway.

Beadlocks are a waste of $$ unless you're running a tire that requires them or going fast enough to need them by the rules

My double beadlocks barely clear my Mark Williams calipers.....

What's peoples opinions on single beadlocks being heavier on the outside of the wheel vs double? Does it cause any kind of balancing issues or wear issues on the axle bearings etc.? Beadlocks ultimately look cool and make it easier to mount your own slicks on bracket cars, not really needed.

You're better off with just one on a wheel with more backspace.

In that case the sidewall closest the hub takes more abuse.

Think about it.

Lots of wishful clueless opinions in this thread.

A bead lock stiffens the sidewall.

My 10" wheels have a 6" backspace, I'd have never went 1.27 60 n/a 23 sbc 3200 lbs 10 x 28 bias without a beadlock on the outside of the wheel.

Would have never happened.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

If you're beating one sidewall the tire goes away sooner, than if you're beating both sidewalls equally.

More backspace, you're better off with one.

Tires will last longer.

I know, I've seen it first hand.

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
If you're beating one sidewall the tire goes away sooner, than if you're beating both sidewalls equally.

More backspace, you're better off with one. Tires will last longer.

Mike, OP says he’s on radials. This make any difference from bias?

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
If you're beating one sidewall the tire goes away sooner, than if you're beating both sidewalls equally.

More backspace, you're better off with one. Tires will last longer.

Mike, OP says he’s on radials. This make any difference from bias?

No Sir, same phenomenon occurs.

The fast radial tire cars I've worked on, we'd put new tires on em 20 runs or less.

Not because of tread wore off, but because of the sidewall getting weaker.

Ya don't wanna wind up a radial on the rim optimally speaking, but it happens. Especially in the early days of radial racing.

If I had a dragster, I'd have a different offset wheel than is typical.

Housing length too most probably. I'd wanna run two locks, but if it wasn't working up to expectations, I'd run one.

If there were a way to measure tire wind up on both sides of the rim separately, you could do some things better than anyone else.

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:
OP says he’s on radials. This make any difference from bias?

In the past we ran both bais & radials. With the bias we were lucky to get 100 runs & the sidewalls were shot. We can get 200+ runs out of the sidewalls with the radials.

Now, with the new ProCharged combo. We'll see how long they last without beadlocks.

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
Beadlocks are a waste of $$ unless you're running a tire that requires them or going fast enough to need them by the rules

My double beadlocks barely clear my Mark Williams calipers.....

Fake news. My beadlocks doubled my tire life and they have paid for themselves on the Cobalt and are worth it on my roadster.

quote:

Originally posted by B KING:

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:
OP says he’s on radials. This make any difference from bias?

In the past we ran both bais & radials. With the bias we were lucky to get 100 runs & the sidewalls were shot. We can get 200+ runs out of the sidewalls with the radials.

Now, with the new ProCharged combo. We'll see how long they last without beadlocks.

In 2019 I had beadlocks installed on my present 15x14 using 32x14 stiffwall bias and the difference in rear was very noticeable driving in the pits and track. The ease of tire changing was an important benefit for me also.

I've been eyeballing these with beadlocks & without. I don't really need them; I have 3 sets of rear Draglites.

My dragster has had various tires on it from all 3 tire companies. On std rims

They never wore out or killed sidewalls. I would replace them just because they were aged usually and felt like I should change them

New tires made ZERO difference in RT’s or 60’s and I know one set had probably 200 runs on them but wear holes still showed good amount of rubber.

I had my wheels bead locked to be able to use the Little Bubba tire

For me it was not a plus. It was a minus.

On a fast doorcar or a heavier car trying to use the smaller tires and leaving very hard the beadlocks are probably going to be a plus.

Bottom line is it’s dependent on your car and combination and what your trying to do.

For me overall it was not a plus in any way.

Changing tires without beadlocks is so easy it’s a joke

Use your trailer power jack to break the beads and in about 5 minutes the tires off.
Credit goes to Paul Schulz for that trick and it works great!

Mounting the tire is another 5 minutes and some starting fluid and a lighter and the beads are seated if you have trouble there

Done it many times without a problem

Mounting the beadlocked rims and tires on my car is a chore by myself.

No fake news here and no BS either.

If you like or want beadlocks have at it !

This message has been edited. Last edited by: SCDIV1,

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
On a fast doorcar or a heavier car trying to use the smaller tires and leaving very hard the beadlocks are probably going to be a plus.

No fake news here and no BS either.

The care will be around 2900 with me in it & will run with no larger than 29.5 x 10.5 radials. So, it's somewhat heavy & somewhat has small tires. I will test with the rims I have & pretty sure it will be fine. My Sons are more worried about looks & want an up-to-date wheel.

This was a high 9 second bracket car, that's getting updated to go a little faster with a ProCharger.

I agree, no fake news or BS.

Everyone has their experiences with their cars

Huge differences in what’s being talked about combination and performance wise.

Beadlocks look great even if they aren’t needed or doing much

Bri, look at Sanders wheels LA .