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| Wheels/Beadlocks | Login/Join |
DRR Sportsman |
That's the problem with most internet forums & discussions Rich - somehow we went from "my opinion / experience was different than yours" to "Fake news, you don't know what you're talking about!!!" Billy Duhs - BD104X@gmail.com | |||
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| DRR Elite |
agree on all points Rich. The dragster, I've also put 225 passes on Hoosier's 34.5/17 with non beadlock rims and no rim screws and the 60 foots were still deadly. With the Delta wheels, I have to run a spacer on the dragster rotor hats to clear the MW calipers. the Firebird, I've put 150 passes on the 32/13.5 radials on non beadlock wheels and no rim screws 60 footing a best of 1.17. With the Alpha wheels on the Firebird I had to change everything with the rear MW brakes to clear the calipers. Pulling/pushing the 16" rim through a 17" tire with the Deltas sucks having 32 titanium spikes on each side to jamb your hands/fingers can be a first aid event and it's even worse now with the 14 or 15" wide tire we run. With the Alpha wheel there is less cuts and abrasions due to bolts in lieu of studs but still a chore. Neither wheel was worth anything on the time slip. Didn't need them, didn't want them but my son wanted the bling/look.This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1320racer, | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Fabricated piece that gets bolted to the floor. Makes doing tires easier. Especially liner tires Saves your back and knees.  | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
Anyone who makes all these amazing claims about bead locks improving things like tire life and going fast and being more stable..... ARE mostly dreaming to me...I just don't see it.... A bead lock does nothing more than clamp the bead to the rim and prevent the tire from de beading.... That's the reason why they came out with them.....safety ! It doesn't stiffen anything since it's just there to clamp the bead to the rim... Narrow tires on wide rims.......and tons of power will kill any tire The narrow tire idea simply increases the force per square inch on the tire tread to the pavement.... My car feels absolutely no different with or without beadlocks..... I've run 2 sets of tires with them.... M/T 3183 and M/T 3191 The 3191's are slower and taller....They probably would like a 4.30 gear vs a 4.10 The only thing positive about using them is more ground clearance and easier loading in and out of my trailer Hoosier 18700 or the M/T 3183 were/are faster.....with or without beadlocks....and no screws either are necessary..... Ed I hear ya on this ! "Pulling/pushing the 16" rim through a 17" tire with the Deltas sucks having 32 titanium spikes on each side to jamb your hands/fingers can be a first aid event and it's even worse now with the 14 or 15" wide tire we run. With the Alpha wheel there is less cuts and abrasions due to bolts in lieu of studs but still a chore." My arms get bruised up very badly from any hard contact and it's worse now thanks to meds I'm on.....Beadlock rings are evil !!! I wear Kevlar arm sleeves to do anything anymore and they do help. I have numerous sets.....welders wear them or anyone who wants to protect your arms while working on something..... Blast away haters....LOL | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
It all starts with winding the tire the same on both sides of the rim. A perfect contact patch. To bad it can't be measured independently. | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
Don't laugh if you see a guy with beadlocks on a dragster, with a different offset wheel, on the inside only. He ain't trying to win a car show.  | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
Rich, I will add to your comments. Tire/sidewall life - I ran MT 3186's without bead locks, can't remember if I used screws or not, don't think I did. Ran these tires to the cords! Put new ones on with no differences! This was on my RED with 60' from .995 to 1.02. I do feel that all rims aren't the same and some need screws to keep the tires from turning on the rim. Sent my Weld wheels to Weld for conversion over 5 years ago and switched to the MT 3195's, same deal as above. I have a set of 3196's on my car now with over 250 runs on them and there is still plenty of meat left on them! 60's range from .965 to .980 with a small shot of NOS to .985 to 1.02 NA and are very consistent on any given day. Changing tires - I am not a fan of the starter fluid trick to seat the beads on new tires, getting the 3186's to seat the bead was a PIA, with two people it was much better, so for me, I will take the bead lock deal any time and ya the Delta's do add additional challenges! At least the studs have a nice rounded end! LOL I just pick a time during the week to do the swap and take my time doing it. Performance - For your typical BBC RED, you won't see any difference with or without bead locks with the same tire I have MW brakes with Weld bead locks (Not Delta's) and they clear the calipers, just have to make sure you put the wheel weights inside enough or they would hit/scrap the calipers So it's close. Overall for me it was worth it for two reasons, changing tires and added safety! And it looks better too. | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
Observing no difference, is a difference. Considering worsening the polar moment of inertia comes at no cost to the timeslip.  This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow, | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
There ya go.....safety, since your running very fast and your more comfortable changing tires this way....Nothing else... P.S. the ETHER method is just so much fun ! BUT ya gotta have everything setup just right.....and yes 2 guys would help but I've always been pretty much working by myself I had a friend in the trucking business.....One of his employees somehow sent a dump truck tire/rim straight up to the the roof of his building.....a good 20 feet or more.... He was trying to seat the tire with ETHER and air pressure. I have no idea how that could happen but the wheel imprinted in the ceiling and shook the building.....I guarantee that is still there. The guy was basically unhurt.....had some flash burns but no worse than a bad sunburn.... When I do a tire it does leap up some but I catch it and it is best done so the tire does not touch the ground....I set it on a bucket or something at the wheel center to elevate the tire sidewall I'm not doin that anytime soon since I do have beadlocks.... The beadlocks take a lot of time with all the bolts......A drill driver helps.... | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
It's also absurd to claim the sidewall is not stiffer with a beadlock. Twilight Zone absurd. That's like saying a shorter sidewall doesn't make for a stiffer sidewall, all things equal. | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
Explain in a logical way to us uninformed folks how a bead lock clamping ring stiffens the sidewall of a tire..... Lets examine the same tire on a std rim... The bead attaches to the rim solidly and does not move either by adding screws or without screws....and you can easily mark the wheel and tire and see it does not move.....without screws !!! The bead lock design simply clamps the bead to the rim with an external ring.....FOR SAFETY It does not touch the sidewall in any way It simply adds clamping force to the BEAD and nothing else.... The sidewall does not get stiffer If the bead didn't move with std rims and doesn't move with beadlocks....what gets stiffer, or more stable and how does the beadlock ring make the sidewall act any differently... Your turn.... P.S. Most of your posts are absurd....and full of nonsense and BS | |||
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| DRR Elite |
 and on Bracket Talk too. Now about beadlocks per Weld Wheel... "The beadlock-wheel design allows for two distinct advantages: it allows the tire to stay on the wheel even with single-digit air pressures, and it ensures the wheel cannot spin within the tire. These two advantages become important as the power levels increase, and become critical with nitro-powered cars." | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
An electric impact driver is a must. lol I used an electric drill until I got one! Curious, how much pressure in in the tire after the ether process???? | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
Look at the cone crusher tossing out a few five dollar words for a 50 cent question! You must have some rocket science training/education! Why don't you post a few calculations on the difference between the (north) polar moment of inertia of a non bead lock wheel vs a bead lock one for all of us to see. Use a 16" diameter wheel. The for extra credit you can then do a calculation to show how that impacts ET.  | |||
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| DRR Elite |
Per NHRA... any vehicle that runs 6.50 and quicker or 210 mph and quicker is required to have rear wheels that meet SFI Spec 15.1 and must have beadlocks or liners. Most posting here ain't running anywhere near that quick/fast to need the safety, need the clamping of the bead that beadlocks provide. Remember that Pro Stock was running well into the 6s using rim screw through 2003.This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1320racer, | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
That's easy to do. The tire winds on the rim to the leading edge of the bead, no beadlock (arrow right). The tire winds on the rim to the outside of the beadlock, beadlock (arrow left) All things equal making the tire sidewall shorter. Shorter sidewall is a stiffer sidewall, all things equal. Common sense. Common logic.  | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
Nobody made a bigger fool of themselves than you Ed. That's a meme you made because you were triggered over the rigged race at Bradenton.  Everyone has had to have noticed of late, how lefty's are triggered by irrefutable evidence.  This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow, | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Heres the deal. I started with 8 screws per side and at 80 passes the tires would be inconsistent and fall into a ball because the side walls were so worn out. I added screws for 16 per side and didn't notice a difference. Sidewalls still mush and inconsistent after 80 passes. Maybe the difference is 16 tall tires, but now I can literally run the tires till cords show repeating the same 1.0X 60' and sidewalls feel just like they are new after hundreds of passes. Huge difference and did not matter if it was M/T or Hoosier. Tire pressures were 8-8.5 on the 15" non beadlock stuff and I have been 8.5 all the way down to 5.5 on the 16" beadlock stuff testing pressures. The cars have always been consistent, until the sidewall goes away. Just showing that beadlocks are not a waste of money, at least for me. | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
Now he says the sidewall and the bead are the same thing... That's like saying hitting the cone is no different that not hitting it!  | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
The bead is steel reinforced....ever cut into a bead ? It doesn't "wind" or do chit with or without a bead lock..... E=MC2 Energy = Mass times the speed of light squared.... 186,000 x 186,00 is a huge number and times even a small mass can amount to huge amounts of energy....or BS in your case...LOL And going 1.27 60' at 3200 lbs is no insanely difficuly task.....and does not require bead locks....or even big power or any magic...really it doesn't The'97 LT-1 Firebird Stocker I once owned and drove a couple times for the present owner went 10.60 at 3200lbs and went 1.29 60' with me in the seat on 9" Hoosier radials with zero rim screws and zero beadlocks.... Going 1.27 with a 400+ cube SB that can go in the 5's supposedly is no big feat.... Even Einstein would agree..... | |||
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