quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
The bead is steel reinforced....ever cut into a bead ?

It doesn't "wind" or do chit with or without a bead lock.....

E=MC2


Energy = Mass times the speed of light squared....

186,000 x 186,00 is a huge number and times even a small mass can amount to huge amounts of energy....or BS in your case...LOL

And going 1.27 60' at 3200 lbs is no insanely difficuly task.....and does not require bead locks....or even big power or any magic...really it doesn't

The'97 LT-1 Firebird Stocker I once owned and drove a couple times for the present owner went 10.60 at 3200lbs and went 1.29 60' with me in the seat on 9" Hoosier radials with zero rim screws and zero beadlocks....

Going 1.27 with a 400+ cube SB that can go in the 5's supposedly is no big feat....

Even Einstein would agree.....

Does the beadlock make the sidewall shorter, in the terms we're talking?

Yes or No?

Answer this before we examine your opinions.

No.....it clamps the bead which is already very stiff and almost solid.....

The bead and the sidewall are 2 distinctly different portions of the tire......

Sure the sidewall is taking the abuse but the bead ain't helping it....

If you want a stiff sidewall tire....buy one...

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
No.....it clamps the bead which is already very stiff and almost solid.....

If it clamps the bead further from the center of the hub, is that not a shorter sidewall?

Yes or No?

All things equal, is a shorter sidewall not a stiffer sidewall, yes or no?

Heres the deal. I started with 8 screws per side and at 80 passes the tires would be inconsistent and fall into a ball because the side walls were so worn out. I added screws for 16 per side and didn't notice a difference. Sidewalls still mush and inconsistent after 80 passes. Maybe the difference is 16 tall tires, but now I can literally run the tires till cords show repeating the same 1.0X 60' and sidewalls feel just like they are new after hundreds of passes. Huge difference and did not matter if it was M/T or Hoosier. Tire pressures were 8-8.5 on the 15" non beadlock stuff and I have been 8.5 all the way down to 5.5 on the 16" beadlock stuff testing pressures. The cars have always been consistent, until the sidewall goes away. Just showing that beadlocks are not a waste of money, at least for me.
Mike
Your experience is different than mine and others but it is YOUR experience.....and in this sport most follow what has worked for them....

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
No.....it clamps the bead which is already very stiff and almost solid.....

If it clamps the bead further from the center of the hub, is that not a shorter sidewall?

Yes or No?

Yes but marginally.....very marginally....I'll give you that...

Lets measure it during a launch......You get the equipment necessary

A high speed camera maybe....or more than one would be good....

The forces working on the bead are not even enough to turn the tire on the rim without screws on many cars......

My dragster had Goodyear tires when I bought it, Weld rims....NO SCREWS....Tires never moved....Don't recall what the 60's were back then but it was not slow....

This message has been edited. Last edited by: SCDIV1,

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
No.....it clamps the bead which is already very stiff and almost solid.....

If it clamps the bead further from the center of the hub, is that not a shorter sidewall?

Yes or No?

Yes but marginally.....very marginally....I'll give you that...

We can't measure the effectiveness any given marginal amount here and now.

But we can keep it real.

It's a marginal amount at the pinch yes, maybe an 1/8", but that's times the diameter of the wheel.

Making it not so marginal.

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
No.....it clamps the bead which is already very stiff and almost solid.....

If it clamps the bead further from the center of the hub, is that not a shorter sidewall?

Yes or No?

Yes but marginally.....very marginally....I'll give you that...

We can't measure the effectiveness any given marginal amount here and now.

But we can keep it real.

It's a marginal amount at the pinch yes, maybe an 1/8", but that's times the diameter of the wheel.

Making it not so marginal.

Now your making up formulas......stop it....Dr. Fauci....

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
No.....it clamps the bead which is already very stiff and almost solid.....

If it clamps the bead further from the center of the hub, is that not a shorter sidewall?

Yes or No?

Yes but marginally.....very marginally....I'll give you that...

We can't measure the effectiveness any given marginal amount here and now.

But we can keep it real.

It's a marginal amount at the pinch yes, maybe an 1/8", but that's times the diameter of the wheel.

Making it not so marginal.

Now your making up formulas......stop it....Dr. Fauci....

Aka Dr. Mengele.

I'm waiting for someone to point a go pro at the inside and outside of their sidewall with simultaneous on screen slo mo video.

I bet the uptown crackers do it already (pro stock).

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Nitzsche:

I started with 8 screws per side and at 80 passes the tires would be inconsistent and fall into a ball because the side walls were so worn out. I added screws for 16 per side and didn't notice a difference. Sidewalls still mush and inconsistent after 80 passes. Maybe the difference is 16 tall tires, but now I can literally run the tires till cords show repeating the same 1.0X 60' and sidewalls feel

I've been racing for over 30 years, have made more passes than the majority of the regulars that post here. Have run 9", 10", 10.5" bias and radial slicks on non bead lock wheels with no rim screws on my former 3880 lb. Chevelle



and 13.5 and 14" bias and radial slicks on my 3200+ lb. Firebird also on non bead lock wheels with no rim screws




and I ain't ever had one tire "fall into a ball because the side walls were so worn out" on these 2 cars no my dragster too with non bead lock wheels with no rim screws!

quote:

Beadlocks are a waste of $$ unless you're running a tire that requires them or going fast enough to need them by the rules

My double beadlocks barely clear my Mark Williams calipers.....

My car runs 1.40 / 6.2’s and double bead locks are some of the best money I’ve wasted in the 15 years I’ve owned this car. Agreed, the MW brakes just clear.

Love him or hate him....

Ed ain't lyin....

I don't know anyone who's made more runs in various cars and never took the easy route using a 3 speed for years in heavy cars...

Racing 2 cars at a very high level with nothing but the best equipment the last few years with great success

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:

quote:

Beadlocks are a waste of $$ unless you're running a tire that requires them or going fast enough to need them by the rules

My double beadlocks barely clear my Mark Williams calipers.....

My car runs 1.40 / 6.2’s and double bead locks are some of the best money I’ve wasted in the 15 years I’ve owned this car. Agreed, the MW brakes just clear.

You're happy and that's all that counts....it was your $$

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Nitzsche:
now I can literally run the tires till cords show repeating the same 1.0X 60' and sidewalls feel just like they are new after hundreds of passes.

I've done that for the better part of 3 decades without beadlocks or rim screws putting 150 passes on the door car tires and over 200 on the dragster, it's no big deal!!

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
Love him or hate him....

Ed ain't lyin....

I don't know anyone who's made more runs in various cars and never took the easy route using a 3 speed for years in heavy cars...

Racing 2 cars at a very high level with nothing but the best equipment the last few years with great success

Thanks for stating the truth Rich.

Energy takes the path to the least resistance.

The marks witness its path in winding the tire on the rim.

I've had hoosiers that would fold up like an accordion when taken off the rim.

again, not one tire in over 30 years!

Nice contact patch, sport.

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
Energy takes the path to the least resistance.

The marks witness its path in winding the tire on the rim.

I've had hoosiers that would fold up like an accordion when taken off the rim.

Maybe you should talk more with Einstein with regards to energy and it's path from a tire to the ground.... but don't leave out the fact that a poor suspension setup can kill the sidewalls at the hit!!! With or without BL's.

I will have over 300 runs on my tires before I change them and after I take them off they will roll away.

TOP38…KNOWS!

ELECTRICITY takes the path of least resistance.....or Electrical energy if you prefer....

We cannot create or destroy energy.....we can only change it's form.....

Nearly all energy comes from our Sun in one way or the other....

High school physics....

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
ELECTRICITY takes the path of least resistance.....or Electrical energy if you prefer....

We cannot create or destroy energy.....we can only change it's form.....

Nearly all energy comes from our Sun in one way or the other....

High school physics....

I was referring to the witness marks on the tire witnessing the path of least resistance for the tire to wind on the rim doo doo brain, not electricity.


The path of least resistance is the physical or metaphorical pathway that provides the least resistance to forward motion when the tire has traction.