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HELP..Top End Skip/Miss
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DRR Sportsman
Picture of Richie
posted
2017 no issue /been running this car for 23 yrs., 2018 bought & rebuilt a 632 w/ HH383, has a top end only miss after 7300, feels like the motor is shutting off and back on really quick, D.B. playback shows rpms drop from 7400 to approx. 6500 then repeats 3-4 times before finish. Things I replaced or ?: MSD Hi rpm chip, MSD 7al (gold), shift rpm chip, plugs, wires, cap/rotor, MSD eye, MSD shielded cable & re-routed, checked all grounds, MSD noise filter, alternator, Optima red top battery, MSD directly wired to battery, IGN. rocker switch inside & master disconnect @ rear, no broken springs (don't feel like valve float), lash stays, 32* timing, NGK -9's, TORQUE CONVERTER, larger alky pump & pilled both ways, rebuilt electric shifter solenoid & #10 power wire >> I'm going to put a switch on shifter so Solenoid will only fire in 1st. The only parts on new motor not changed are: empty MSD dist., Moroso crank trigger wheel. The miss was really bad at first (April) and seemed to lessen all on it's own as there was no noticeable change after all of these 'fixes'.
I also run a dry sump system.

I managed to finish #2 in points @ L.V. & want to be ready for Bracket Finals @ Atco soon! Thanks

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Richie,
 
Posts: 257 | Location: Windsor locks Ct. | Registered: November 25, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Mike Beck
posted Hide Post
Stop hitting the 3-step button on the top end....... Sorry, just had to.....

If I can actually think of something useful to say I'll do it later.
 
Posts: 1444 | Location: South River, NJ | Registered: June 19, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of Richie
posted Hide Post
I've had racers tell me tell me they heard me peddelin' LOL.....
 
Posts: 257 | Location: Windsor locks Ct. | Registered: November 25, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of "The Bender"
posted Hide Post
It's the converter! Falling of chair laughing

Try it with no high side chip

What gap is the crank trigger set at?


272" Spitzer
540 Chevy
The Blower Shop XR1
FTI XPM Series Converter
FTI Level 6 Powerglide
3.69@199
.916 60'

2017 Bradenton Heads Up Madness
Open Outlaw Champ

2018 PDRA T/D #5
2019 PDRA T/D #2

2020 Retired From T/D Competition....

2020 Bradenton NMCA Hemi Shootout Winner

2021 getting back into bracket racing with a Gen3 Hemi powered 87 Cutlass.
 
Posts: 3103 | Location: Yes | Registered: July 08, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of Richie
posted Hide Post
at first...about .200 by mistake, adjusted now to approx. .045. Didn't noticed a diff. here either.
I even wrapped the 6" wires coming out of the eye w/ Rubber tape to try & shield it?? it IS VERY close to the alternator

Biggest noticeable DROP in the severity of the MISS was after a converter change.....I don't think it's related...

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Richie,
 
Posts: 257 | Location: Windsor locks Ct. | Registered: November 25, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of "The Bender"
posted Hide Post
Have you watched the trigger wheel while cranking to make sure it doesn't have runout?

Just thinking out loud.....


272" Spitzer
540 Chevy
The Blower Shop XR1
FTI XPM Series Converter
FTI Level 6 Powerglide
3.69@199
.916 60'

2017 Bradenton Heads Up Madness
Open Outlaw Champ

2018 PDRA T/D #5
2019 PDRA T/D #2

2020 Retired From T/D Competition....

2020 Bradenton NMCA Hemi Shootout Winner

2021 getting back into bracket racing with a Gen3 Hemi powered 87 Cutlass.
 
Posts: 3103 | Location: Yes | Registered: July 08, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of Richie
posted Hide Post
Did not study it, but didn't notice any runout. Only a few thou. there at most anyhow..I had it @ .200 and it fired.
 
Posts: 257 | Location: Windsor locks Ct. | Registered: November 25, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Sportsman
Picture of Richie
posted Hide Post
It runs 8.00 @ 2710 lbs. 169 mph. Best of 7.928 @ 170.15 w/ 1.132
 
Posts: 257 | Location: Windsor locks Ct. | Registered: November 25, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
posted Hide Post
I suggest shifting the car with the Delay Box using a Time Output and disable the RPM shifter by removing the shift chip or power to it. If your delay box will output from RPM and program for only 1 shift then this would be a better method to try.

You could possibly be shifting in the BO box also if not wired correctly. If you are using a RPM activated switch with a chip to shift with, the “ON Time Window” should be controlled with your delay box and not on all the time or activated with a toggle or position switch.
 
Posts: 2695 | Location: 53056 | Registered: December 30, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of Richie
posted Hide Post
I only have a Biondo200 box. Already use SLE, don't know how many options I have, not many.

It appears I can do that w/ the Mega 200, Thanks Mark! Not worthy switch on the shifter seemed like a band-aid...

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Richie,
 
Posts: 257 | Location: Windsor locks Ct. | Registered: November 25, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Richie:
I only have a Biondo200 box. Already use SLE, don't know how many options I have, not many.


Look at Page 8 of your Mega 200 Delay Box instructions HERE . This is what should be controlling your shift function.
 
Posts: 2695 | Location: 53056 | Registered: December 30, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
posted Hide Post
Change crank trigger. It's losing signal.



Configuration: 3350#, 582 C.I.,

60 - 1.24
1/8 - 5.53@ 126MPH
1/4 - 8.73@ 159MPH



3700#+210lb driver, FULL interior, through mufflers, 10.5 tire.
60'-1.333 (IN 4000ft DA! Joisy Math excluded; 1.25sec using JOISY MATH.) Wink
1/4 - 9.60@144MPH

 
Posts: 1464 | Location: St Marys | Registered: January 12, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
posted Hide Post
In your initial posting did you write that the Ignition ON rocker switch was replaced ??
 
Posts: 2695 | Location: 53056 | Registered: December 30, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of Richie
posted Hide Post
Wheel? already changed transducer / eye.
 
Posts: 257 | Location: Windsor locks Ct. | Registered: November 25, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Sportsman
Picture of Richie
posted Hide Post
YES, Mark. & high amp 4 pole switch out back.
 
Posts: 257 | Location: Windsor locks Ct. | Registered: November 25, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of BLIND MULE 2217
posted Hide Post
Have you tried it on gas? Had a buddy with a similar combo and problem. Switched it to gas per the engine builder and the issue went away.
 
Posts: 354 | Location: Opelika AL, | Registered: January 02, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
posted Hide Post
Sounds like fuel to me? Is this gas or alky and is there a fuel filter, if filter is present just toss in the file 13 section no matter what the issue is.

Shane Carr


"Sugar Shane"
 
Posts: 119 | Location: No clue | Registered: March 01, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
posted Hide Post
Disconnect the tach and try it
 
Posts: 81 | Location: nc | Registered: February 20, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of Stephen Hughes
posted Hide Post
I had a 555 that had a miss I never could get out of it. Same ignition and fuel system as my previous 565, chased it over a year and never fixed it. Dropped 598 in there and poof, no more miss. My guess was cam or engine combo wasn’t agreeing with my alky set up.


The Pull-Out....for when you want to work smarter, not harder!!!
 
Posts: 337 | Location: Texas | Registered: September 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
posted Hide Post
We just had a similar problem. Engine would just shut off for a split second and then come right back. Like you said almost sounding like a quick whomp, whomp like some do when driving the finish line. It would only do it noticeably when making the pass and rpms above 6500. First we replaced the coil which was no help. Not wanting to chase it for weeks we took somewhat of a shotgun approach at it. We replaced all at once the distributor, pickup, cap, rotor, spark plug wires, coil wire, and the master disconnect switch. We also not only checked the grounds (they were tight and no noticeable corrosion) BUT we took all of the grounds off the posts on the chassis and wire brushed the eyelets along with the posts and any washers before reassembling. Problem is gone now...

Scott
 
Posts: 1838 | Location: Illinois | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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