Richie, not to take a sale away from Greg, but I have a Racepak Sportsman and a lot of add ons including 4 O2 sensors, that is only one season old that I am selling. PM if interested.

rick 1147, you have a PM

Have you replaced the entire cable that runs between the crank trigger and the ignition box?

Scott

Yes Scott, new shielded wire, moved as far away from everything as possible, Even tried to shield 6" lead out of MSD trigger.

Replaced the black connectors also when replacing the wire?

Scott

No, I did not replace any connectors because I had 2 diff. triggers on car w/ same results. New wire came first then changed triggers.

Time for a rewire of the car sounds like to me. This type of stuff will drive you crazy. I had the same issue to start the year and thought I fixed it when I replaced the ignition switch in my panel, went out and made 4 perfect passes on a Friday night test then 2 weeks later right back to where I was. Had the car rewired and bam it’s fixed.

Already replaced some wiring, car will be all apart soon and I'll check every connection / wiring again. Leaning towards RPM Performance data recorder - more bang for the buck. If my issue is still present next season hopefully data will help me find it.

quote:

Originally posted by Richie:
Already replaced some wiring, car will be all apart soon and I'll check every connection / wiring again. Leaning towards RPM Performance data recorder - more bang for the buck. If my issue is still present next season hopefully data will help me find it.

I still think it is time to completely rewire car but I do agree with you on the RPM data logger. It is by far best bang for the buck and easy to work with. I was able to use a bunch of sensors I already had and that saved me a lot of money. It may help you find out what is going on .

Many have suggested to re-wire the WHOLE car but I'm having a hard time w/ doing that, I used #14 wire on 95% of the car (did not use the fine strand/small wire) -Most likely I will re-terminate the wiring as I feel this is where the problem may lie possibly to over crimping connectors thus severing strands. I'm trying not to be an 'ASKHOLE' but when most of the wiring is tie wrapped to the frame tight I don't see how the wires can 'break'.

quote:

Originally posted by Richie:
Many have suggested to re-wire the WHOLE car but I'm having a hard time w/ doing that, I used #14 wire on 95% of the car (did not use the fine strand/small wire) -Most likely I will re-terminate the wiring as I feel this is where the problem may lie possibly to over crimping connectors thus severing strands. I'm trying not to be an 'ASKHOLE' but when most of the wiring is tie wrapped to the frame tight I don't see how the wires can 'break'.

I understand your thinking on this. Please keep us updated next spring how your repair plan worked to resolve this problem.

I had a master disconnect do that once, also had fuse holder get loose where it holds the fuse.

Richie,
Get your self a helper and a good meter.
Start at one end of the car metering/checking/wiggling/pulling on EVERY wire checking both ends and ALL connectors.
It will take time but you may be able to find it.
If not then do a re-wire.
Just my 2 cents.

buy an MSD grid so you can view Ignition In i.e. every crank trigger pulse. You will be able to troubleshoot any ignition related issue from then on.

I have used the Grid to find a bad crank trigger wheel where one magnet had an issue above a certain RPM and have used it to identify the need to replace the crank trigger sensor.

It will certainly pay for itself and save you in the future by not having to replace a bunch of stuff.

Here’s an example of the Ignition IN and Ignition OUT channels that are recorded only in Grid. Grid will share up to 13 channels of information with RacePak.

The missing ignition IN pulses in this photo is what I was dealing with in my car. They lasted only 100 seconds from the initial start of the day and then would disappear not return for the entire day. Start the engine the next day and exactly the same thing. Was this electrical? Most definitely. Replacing all the ignition components and harnesses and switches and disconnecting all items attached to the ignition ( tach, alternator, shifter) would not cure this problem.

Okay, you do not want to completely rewire car and I understand that but it sounds to me like that is the problem.
So I know you have already changed the MSD 7AL box but I would do it again with another preferably a new one. I have had three go bad in the last few years and all acted different when they did. One of them would run almost as good as normal but just did not have much power on top end and miss a little and just not turn quite as much RPM.

To me the most likely culprits is wiring or MSD box. When I say wiring I am including ignition switch and any components wired in.

How Much Time and Money spent already just rewire the car with a K&R Kit or Digital Delay and Be Done They Make Great Kits Had ONe Installed Last Year ON The Monte Carlo .... Nice and Neat and All Labeled with a wiring Schematic

$575 4 new MSD, $579 4 new K+R Wiring, I'm DONE spending $$$ until I know 4-sure what the problem is.

quote:

Originally posted by Richie:
$579 for new K+R Wiring,

Great wiring choice and not that expensive for everything that comes in this kit.

quote:

Originally posted by Richie:
$575 4 new MSD, $579 4 new K+R Wiring, I'm DONE spending $$$ until I know 4-sure what the problem is.

I think that will resolve all of your issues.