Good Day Mate, I've got BIG domes (.4660 rise) -so I'm told those like a little more timing (32*) maybe I'll try 30* next year for a test, didn't like 35*

Curly1, I changed converters looking for much needed E.T. to run T/S. If the cam selection was as WRONG as some say - it should make me faster and fix the issue? <<< THAT would have to be proven to me B4 I changed anything.
clogged fuel filter? = no....
Braided hose? I worked in the industry for 16 yrs. I'm confident my lines are o.k. - the pressure lines are Teflon anyway...
I had 7 or 8 clean passes recently - so going to gas could take multiple passes or DYNO pulls before it told me anything, I could run the 601 as-is in competition as a test. SR20's are known NOT to work well w/ alky - I'm sure there are PLENTY of big BBC's / 383HH MC out there running just fine on Meth. I will close the gap on plugs.

I'd check the polarity on the crank trigger wheel and as well the green and violet wires. Ohm the spark plug wires and check any switch that activates a chip for intermittently malfunctioning (activating) going down track.

The green and violet wires should be 12" from any 12v source.

Plug wires can OHM fine but still could have a breach in the outside jacket leading to a short. It would not run well anytime if polarity was wrong...12" from 12V. source =impossible! thanks anyhow...

quote:

Originally posted by Richie:
Plug wires can OHM fine but still could have a breach in the outside jacket leading to a short. It would not run well anytime if polarity was wrong...12" from 12V. source =impossible! thanks anyhow...

Richie, you are incorrect. If the polarity was incorrect you may or may not know. It could simply be down on power or it could only miss through a certain RPM range. I witnessed this with my own engine on a dyno. It pulled fine one pull, but was down on power...the next pull it missed from 6800-7800....anything below that and above that it was fine,just down on power. Reversed polarity and reset timing and it pulled clean and all the power came back.

It’s not impossible to run the mag wires separate...they don’t need to be 12”..that’s an extreme. If the car is wired correctly and with quality material...this wouldn’t be the issue.

I don’t want to beat a dead horse, but you could find this issue in a half dozen dyno pulls...still cheaper than 3 trips to the track and shotgunning parts at it.

I was contacted by Pat Collins @ TechWest Racing Services today, it seems my Coil was bad which in turn damaged the 7AL. SOooooo I'll change out the coil to a 8251, install repaired MSD & install the RPM data logger. I'm confident my Miss will be gone. Thanks for all the replies....Those who picked 'COIL' >>>

Well, fast forward to 2019 (present) and the miss or popping on the big end is gone but still experiencing a surge or just not happy motor.....Data shows a drop of around 100 rpms multiple times during my runs, and CO's drop w/ RPM drop (I assume this is because the motor is losing fire) CO's are around 11.5 thru out the run. I do not want to change parts that were already changed wasting time & $$$. MSD Starter Saver was my next place to look, Has ANYONE experienced a defective starter saver that caused issues as above? I know "Buy a Grid" let's locate the problem first.....Thanks!
also, not the alternator...tossed the belt for 2 runs & didn't know it and still had the issue.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Richie,

^^^^^^ You never mentioned that the crank trigger was plugged into a starter saver. By all means unplug from starter saver and plug the pickup directly into the 7al2. Recheck the timing as well with it direct into the ignition box.

Disconnect the yellow points wire from starter saver to 7al2 also.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: markemark,

markemark, you thinking the 'Signal Stabilizer' ain't stabilizing?? lol...will disconnect yellow, do you know which direction the stabilizer changes timing 4* - I'd like to get trigger close before starting and getting kick back...Thank you!

quote:

Originally posted by Richie:
markemark, you thinking the 'Signal Stabilizer' ain't stabilizing?? lol...will disconnect yellow, do you know which direction the stabilizer changes timing 4* - I'd like to get trigger close before starting and getting kick back...Thank you!

The 4* would be more retarded with saver installed. Move your pickup more retarded (clockwise looking from front of engine) after disconnecting the starter saver.

quote:

Originally posted by Richie:
Well, fast forward to 2019 (present) and the miss or popping on the big end is gone but still experiencing a surge or just not happy motor.....Data shows a drop of around 100 rpms multiple times during my runs, and CO's drop w/ RPM drop (I assume this is because the motor is losing fire) CO's are around 11.5 thru out the run. I do not want to change parts that were already changed wasting time & $$$. MSD Starter Saver was my next place to look, Has ANYONE experienced a defective starter saver that caused issues as above? I know "Buy a Grid" let's locate the problem first.....Thanks!
also, not the alternator...tossed the belt for 2 runs & didn't know it and still had the issue.

When you say CO's I am assuming you mean the O2 numbers? With that said you are losing RPM and O2 are moving around look at fuel supply issues. The banging and popping are ignition / electrical. By the way my O2 numbers are 12.9 to 13.1 wide open throttle. On my car that would be stupid fat and not run good.

Thanks Mark, Yes Curly - 02's (I'm stuck on stupid most of the time) I'm experimenting w/ pills now, w/ a reading of around 11.9 @3/4 track, I got my best MPH. I believe the drop in rpm is just the ignition shutting off and coming back on & with no ignition to fire the alky - the 02's drop to 9.0.
I think the major issues on top end was the shorted out coil - hasn't done that yet this year.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Richie,

quote:

Originally posted by Richie:
Thanks Mark, Yes Curly - 02's (I'm stuck on stupid most of the time) I'm experimenting w/ pills now, w/ a reading of around 11.9 @3/4 track, I got my best MPH

If you went from 11.5 which on my car would be blubbering fat to 11.9 and it picked up MPH then keep going. Once again on my car it runs best at 12.9 to 13.1 so as long as MPH and ET is getting better keep leaning it down. I think you are on track and heading in right direction.

Curly, I was limited to what I could try...I just got a set of 38's to try to get the pill size down to the low 90's, I'm 39 w/ a 98 pill now, tried 102 but was faster w/ 98. I ain't givin' up yet! ThankYou!!

Can I ask why you want to get the pill size into low 90's?

I have ran small nozzles and 150 PSI and large nozzles with 50 PSI or less and no performance difference. All I care about is how the car runs.

"Can I ask why you want to get the pill size into low 90's? "
Mostly because I have pills from 60 - 98, and (1) 102, and I was also thinking pressure, (I was told 38's MIGHT be a little more consistent)
I'm going to leave the fuel as-is & try removing the Starter Saver and see what happens. I'm trying not to be an ASKHOLE, but to pick & choose what I try based on changes already made...... It is good to know you didn't see any perf. difference w/ pressure, of course I'm looking for performance as well....

Jmo, get rid of the starter saver and connect your crank trigger directly to the ignition box. I had a starter saver on my car for a while. It was one of the worst things I ever installed on the car.

I agree with Wooley, I had an MSD timing computer with a 10 degree start retard ( 36 degrees timing). I was constantly kicking back and breaking flex plates and starters, removed timing computer no more problems.

quote:

Originally posted by Richie:
"Can I ask why you want to get the pill size into low 90's? "
Mostly because I have pills from 60 - 98, and (1) 102, and I was also thinking pressure, (I was told 38's MIGHT be a little more consistent)
I'm going to leave the fuel as-is & try removing the Starter Saver and see what happens. I'm trying not to be an ASKHOLE, but to pick & choose what I try based on changes already made...... It is good to know you didn't see any perf. difference w/ pressure, of course I'm looking for performance as well....

Your problem here is different than mine but it appears that removing the starter saver may have resolved my issue.

Here is my thinking on starter saver and it is the same with trying a gas carb. It is cheap, quick and easy to do and it MAY help you narrow down the issue. So I say do it and see. On mine I can quickly hook the starter saver back up if it does not help. P.S. I do not think you are being an ASKHOLE you have a problem and looking for suggestions and answers from those who may have experience with similar problem.

Back to gas carb I do not think I will ever run gas again but I would certainly try it to narrow down and eliminate a problem and cut the time chasing my tail around.

I think I would have found a reputable dyno and had the motor on it long time ago. If it runs good on dyno but not your car then that would get you things narrowed down. Cost me less than $500 to dyno my motor when I had issue, was only a couple test pulls to fix carb issues not a major tuning session.

Dyno testing is a huge deal and a great investment if you get a good operator. My dyno dude is real good with Mechanical injection and can get it tuned in real quick. Where I get my dyno testing done is about 3.5 hours away and there are some much closer but he knows what he is doing and so it does not take as many hours on the machine to get results.