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Bracket Talk Bracket Talk Forum Tech Talk - by Abruzzi Battery relocation advice?Go | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply | |
| Battery relocation advice? | Login/Join |
DRR Trophy |
Guy, I'm finally getting around to moving the battery in my S10 to somewhere in the rear of the box, under the tonneau cover. I'll probably just get a cable kit from Jeg's or Summit or somebody. There are choices of #2 or #1 gauge cable; I may be able to get #0 as well. As a lark I may put the cable inside of some smooth PVC flexible conduit, and fasten it to the inside of the frame rail. It only adds a few ounces of weight, mostly in the rear. I don't think I will need a battery box, but I'll probably bolt down a battery tray for the battery to rest in. I've got 3/8" bolts and some flat bar to hold down the battery, and I like to use these plastic knobs with 3/8-16 thread to secure that bar. It's much faster to change the battery in an emergency. The long axis of the battery is perpendicular to the long axis of the truck, as original, and I'll probably mount it the same way back in the box. I'm thinking that the plates are safer that way. I'm hoping this is worth it. The battery weighs about 43 pounds, but I would need 40 pounds less ballast that way. I'm hoping for a little more lift in the front with this move,, to help transfer weight to the back on launch. Thank you T.This message has been edited. Last edited by: Bad Nusz, | ||
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DRR Trophy |
I suggest fine stranded welding cable in 1/0 size should be just under 1/2" thick. Measure for what you need and buy from a local welding supply shop, tell them you want the good stuff. Meziere Tech. Make sure your water pump is on whenever you check your coolant level. | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
Definitely use the 1/0 welding cable! Moving the battery not only will remove 40 pounds of ballast from the rear it will also take that weight off the nose too! That's a twofa!!! LOL | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
1/0 for sure. Bigger is always better when it comes to battery cables. My son used 2/0 on his Dakota project | |||
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| DRR Pro |
In a door car, rear battery, I’m using 2 gauge with a 14-1 sbc and it cranks perfect (14 yrs). If you have BBC I’d opt for the 0 gauge. Here’s the wiring method that I use. I have 2 gauge from the battery to a remote disconnect (that I mounted right next to the main disconnect) and then continue on to the starter and then to the alternator with the same 2 gauge. The main disconnect that operates at outer rear, feeds the relay panel (#6) and ignition box (#10) on separate runs. This method separates the alternator from the relay panel/ ignition while allowing the alternator to share the same 2 gauge starter feed for charging. The cost of a second Cole Hersee disconnect for this method is minimal.  | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
That's slick, good work sir. JEGS & SUMMIT has 2 guage, I just searched it. The kit they sell is inexpensive $70-$80 bucks SUMMIT Flaming River $150. Find out which is MADE IN USA. I'd buy that, were I you. | |||
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| DRR Pro |
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| DRR Trophy |
Lots of great information here, guys; thank you. Does anyone use a fuse or circuit breaker in the main feed cable? I would think that that cable could carry a lot of fault current if it were grounded somehow. | |||
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| DRR Elite |
It ain't. Battery is up front in stock location, held in place with stock battery tray and clamp... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbKYio6OvKM  59% of this car's 3880 lbs. is on the front tires and there's nothing in the trunk. Your time and $ is better spent elsewhere if your goal is to have your truck launch better. First thing to do is have it 4 corner scaled. Second is to get the right springs and shocks under it. | |||
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| DRR Trophy |
I would double check on the battery box. I had 2 batteries in the back of my Luv truck on trays with 3 hole hold down and 3\8 bolts and was told to put them in boxes by nhra tech. I didnt check the book, just went ahead and did it. Make sure you dont need it before you get all done. It might not be necessary seeing as how your bed is enclosed, mine is open. | |||
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| DRR Sportsman |
If you are needing to run ballast, like I am taking that you are from your comment, I would think it makes sense to move the easiest relocatable weight. Then have it scaled and select right suspension components. BG | |||
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| DRR Elite |
^^^More clueless comments.  You scale first THEN move or add weight IF you need to AFTER setting up the suspension. | |||
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DRR Top Comp |
When I set up a chassis I raise the wheelie bars up some to let it eat and see what it is doing. Then I adjust preload to where it goes nice and straight with wheels up. Most every car will go nice and straight when front wheels are on the ground unless you have an alignment issue etc. Lets get it to go straight with wheels up, now you are learning something. After I get it going straight and launching nice I lower the wheelie bars back to where I want them. THEN I will scale it and that is your baseline. Once you get that baseline you can always put it back there and it will go straight unless you have something broken, shock, hiem joint on anti-roll bar or something like that. It is not going to hurt anything to scale the car before you do anything but it will not tell you much unless you have something major wrong. Because most cars are different. Different shocks, springs, ladder bar or four link settings, tire hook and even track prep so it is hard to say scale your car and put XX% on front and XX lbs preload on it and it will launch nice and pretty. Maybe if someone had a similar set up they could get you in the ballpark but each car is different. I get it going nice an straight launching pretty and then scale it and when car is right and you scale it you can always quickly get it right by going back to your baseline. To the original poster putting the batteries in the right rear of the bed should help your weight distribution, your weight transfer and tire hook. Unless your truck is doing huge wheelies I would move the batteries to the rear. Point is you need the battery put it where it helps your chassis work better. https://postimg.cc/gallery/np3zpruo/ "Dunning-Kruger Effect" -a type of Cognitive bias where people with little expertise or ability assume they have superior expertise or ability. This overestimation occurs as a result of the fact that they do not have enough knowledge to know they don't have enough knowledge. Before you argue with someone ask yourself, "Is this person mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of a different perspective?" If not there is no point to argue. 4X NE2 CHAMPION. 2020 TDRA NE2 Champion | |||
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| DRR Elite |
 bad advice offered by someone that thinks he knows and clearly does not! Every professionally built drag car is scaled before it ever makes a pass and 99.9% go straight down the track without issue. | |||
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| DRR Sportsman |
He obviously needs to move the battery if needs ballast to get the car to work. I agree that scaling before is a good idea. I wouldn't agree that leaving ballast in place and leaving the battery in the front is wise. Would you? If I had to get ballast to make my car work I wouldn't really need a scale to tell me some weight relocation may be in order and again I would never argue against scaling. And it would need scaled after and that is a FACT. 59% front weight is NOT something he should be shooting for. BG | |||
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| DRR Sportsman |
[Every professionally built drag car is scaled before it ever makes a pass and 99.9% go straight down the track without issue]
Not even close to 99.9% are tuned perfectly the first pass there is always fine tuning adjustments even by professional chassis shops. I have seen way too many shakedown passes to think this is even remotely close to true. That is 999 out of 1000.....and that ain't even close to any type of truth or facts. BG | |||
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DRR Pro |
What percentage of sg, ss, professional bracket racer's cars have the battery still in the stock location? Seems in other threads that is the standard. Someone list a GOOD reason to leave it in the stock location, other than money saved on wire. ____________________________ 2017 and 2018 Osage Casinos Tulsa Raceway Park No-Box Champion 2018 Div4 Goodguys Hammer award winner | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
Approach in determining front to back weight percentages is determined by wheelbase and overhang. Which approach is best, is determined by which approach results in the most wins, or the most consistent car. Not the biggest wheelie or fastest 60ft, unless you're talking heads up racing. For bracket racing I'll tell right now, 50% / 50% , is the best approach. Put the battery or battery's, centered in the bed / trunk. | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
Low horsepower cars (under 1100-1200hp), the rotation of the rearend controls the dynamics of the chassis. Driving off on the left rear. Put your ballast in the center. You want your corner weights as even as possible, for straight burnouts.  | |||
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DRR Pro |
Scaling a car wont tell your much? Wtf lolo. You can spend weeks trying to fix a ill handling car when scaling it first will save many headachesThis message has been edited. Last edited by: RacerVX54, "Just Shut Up and Race" Brian Martin Martin Racing 5.66 @121.55 | |||
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Bracket Talk Bracket Talk Forum Tech Talk - by Abruzzi Battery relocation advice?
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