I still haven't heard a GOOD reason to leave it in stock location.

^^^^^^ this

quote:

Originally posted by BG7X77:
I still haven't heard a GOOD reason to leave it in stock location.

What do you mean, “Ed said so” isn’t a GOOD reason?

Current trend with cars coming out of my shop is sealed, vented battery box mounted on the right side of driver.

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
What percentage of sg, ss, professional bracket racer's cars have the battery still in the stock location?

This is what the clueless and those with an agenda do here at tech talk, muddy the waters with non relative bull shyt and blanket statements.

FYI, the op’s car isn’t a SS car, no mind a tube chassis SG car. It’s a production car that is a low power, low $, small tire bracket car.

FYI 2, every car competing in stock eliminator, built from the 50s through 2011 has its battery up front in the stock location.

Again, here’s the good reason...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbKYio6OvKM

Had I listen to the opinions and clueless advice of some here, I would have ended up with another cut up, gutted shyt box bracket car that still wouldn’t have worked as good as this car!

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
What percentage of sg, ss, professional bracket racer's cars have the battery still in the stock location?

This is what the clueless and those with an agenda do here at tech talk, muddy the waters with non relative bull shyt and blanket statements.

FYI, the op’s car isn’t a SS car, no mind a tube chassis SG car. It’s a production car that is a low power, low $, small tire bracket car.

FYI 2, every car competing in stock eliminator, built from the 50s through 2011 has its battery up front in the stock location.

Again, here’s the good reason...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbKYio6OvKM

Had I listen to the opinions and clueless advice of some here, I would have ended up with another cut up, gutted shyt box bracket car that still wouldn’t have worked as good as this car!

You call me clueless and you call a question a blanket statement? LOL That is the kind of BS stats you throw around here all time. Then you start calling names when someone doesn't take your word as the only way.

Don't act like Stock supports your opinion either. The only reason that they all have the battery in the stock location is because they HAVE to by the rules. Change that rule and see how many keep it there.

Now back to the part of the question you left out of the quote, no GOOD reason to leave it there? Got it.

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
What percentage of sg, ss, professional bracket racer's cars have the battery still in the stock location?

This is what the clueless and those with an agenda do here at tech talk, muddy the waters with non relative bull shyt and blanket statements.

FYI, the op’s car isn’t a SS car, no mind a tube chassis SG car. It’s a production car that is a low power, low $, small tire bracket car.

FYI 2, every car competing in stock eliminator, built from the 50s through 2011 has its battery up front in the stock location.

Again, here’s the good reason...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbKYio6OvKM

Had I listen to the opinions and clueless advice of some here, I would have ended up with another cut up, gutted shyt box bracket car that still wouldn’t have worked as good as this car!

You call me clueless and you call a question a blanket statement? LOL That is the kind of BS stats you throw around here all time. Then you start calling names when someone doesn't take your word as the only way.

Don't act like Stock supports your opinion either. The only reason that they all have the battery in the stock location is because they HAVE to by the rules. Change that rule and see how many keep it there.

Now back to the part of the question you left out of the quote, no GOOD reason to leave it there? Got it.

Well said. What a gem he is.

you are clueless and the fact remains you can not provide a good reason why the op should move his battery to the bed when every stocker as well my former Chevelle debunks the claims that relocating the battery from the nose is a must do to get a car to work no mind the OP’s low power truck. Only the internet nobodies can sell that bull shyt story to the naive and misinformed.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1320racer,

I don't think I or MANY of the people on here are anywhere in the remote vicinity of being clueless.

quote:

you are clueless and the fact remains you can provide a good reason why the op should move his battery to the bed! Further, stockers as well my former Chevelle with their batteries in the stick location flat out work! How can that be when the internet nobodies tell the op and anyone else who is misinformed and/or naive that this is a must do task.

I'm sure you know this Ed but........... Most stockers run ballast/weight to meet the minimum required weight limit. And guess where they put that weight ?? I've never seen dual front mounted batteries.
Ever wonder why all the fastest stockers in the country go to great and ridiculous lengths to remove all the weight they can off the nose only to have to add weight to make the minimum requirement. Again, I'm sure you know this so why tell the OP that it's a waste to put the battery in the bed ?? It cant hurt right and could be a performance advantage no ???

Moving weight to the bed of any truck will only help it work better. Of course it will work with a front battery, but like many of us we like to improve on things. I personally see this as only an improvement, no negative side effects.

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
you are clueless and the fact remains you can not provide a good reason why the op should move his battery to the bed when every stocker as well my former Chevelle debunks the claims that relocating the battery from the nose is a must do to get a car to work no mind the OP’s low power truck. Only the internet nobodies can sell that bull shyt story to the naive and misinformed.

Who said it was a must? He isn't racing on National or Divisional prepped tracks like stockers and your cars are. The fact still remains that most of if not all of those guys would not leave the battery there if they didn't have to.

That’s not a fact, that’s your uninformed opinion.

You don’t know what you don’t know but you think you know!

All we need is evidence.

50% / 50%

This car was 3,775 lbs with 375 lbs of ballast in the trunk. Steel headed BBC.

This is our usual Super Pro crowd, the dragster in the right lane has won the million twice.

The Nova 50/50 with a steel headed BBC won 6 Super Pro championships in 9 years on a 10" tire, 41 race schedule.

1 Super Pro Championship with a sbc 50/50 at 3375 lbs.

Don't just make claims, bring some Evidence.

Everything I've said in this post, I applied on this Nova.

It's all straight out of the Jerry Bickle chassis book.

That's the best chassis book there is period, it wins races in reality.

Thank you for all the great information, guys.
Most of you are pretty much out of my league yet, but what you write will be copied and pasted into my racing journals.

I have not found a better forum, at least for my level of racing.

I'm seeing opposing views from some very experienced, accomplished racers, but they make me think.

I am somewhat loathe to move my battery, at least partly because of the necessity of installing that master cutoff switch. Something else to fail at the worst possible moment....and to carry a spare for.

I see my buddies have all moved their batteries, somewhat as a matter of course. They have to drag chargers around to the backs of their cars and have to open their trunks.

In mine tho I do plan to install charging posts under the hood, as I open that up between rounds to help cooling and check for leaks and whatnot anyway.

My modestly-powered, high 11-second truck is kindof a rolling test bed. It's fun to test out new things to see how they work, though I so wish I'd started racing decades sooner to have more experience and done all the dumb things by now. ;^)

Last season I replaced the stock-type front shocks with 90/10 drag shocks. I maybe get a little more front end rise, and a couple of observers claim they're seeing air under my front tires, but I don't know if I can believe that.
No one has time to film my launches, so I'm working on some sort of cameras underneath the truck.

Moving my battery can eliminate over 40 lbs. of ballast. Until last season, I could never understand why one would actually want to add weight to his race car....

I believe an S10 truck with a V8 conversion is plenty nose-heavy anyway, as the engine must be mounted fairly far forward, in relation to the front wheel hubs.

One goal of mine is to be able to pull slight wheelies, indicating that I've got 100% of the weight on the slicks. I'm not quite ready to invest in a fiberglass hood, or new Calvert lowering springs in the back.

I look at some cars at the track pulling huge wheelstands and wonder if they should have left their batteries under the hood or something...

My ultimate goal is to consistently dead-hook on every pass, regardless of track conditions.
That may be an unrealistic fantasy; I don't know. Very experienced racers I know bytch about track prep when they spin. ;^)

BTW, cool video link, Ed.

Cheers,
T.

quote:

Originally posted by HS professor:
I'm sure you know this so why tell the OP that it's a waste to put the battery in the bed ?? It cant hurt right and could be a performance advantage no ???

Bob...no and no. Further what I stated was...scale the car FIRST, setup the suspension SECOND and add or move weight THIRD.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1320racer,

quote:

Bob...no and no. Further what I stated was...scale the car FITST, setup the suspension SECOND and add or move weight THIRD.

That was after you told him ........

It ain't

I’ll state it again...it ain’t!

Only suggestion for cutoff switch I would make is use a Cole Hersee 75912-BX DPST. 4 pole switch. Isolate alternator. Works like a charm. There are other methods that work perfectly fine this is the one I chose. You can use a horn relay just as well.

Statistical facts

50% rear / 50% front sbc 10" tire Super Pro

Batteries centered in trunk

Opinions don't apply, it's a matter of what wins

13 final rounds on 21 entries.

Factory condition all steel street car

quote:

Originally posted by BG7X77:
Only suggestion for cutoff switch I would make is use a Cole Hersee 75912-BX DPST. 4 pole switch. Isolate alternator. Works like a charm. There are other methods that work perfectly fine this is the one I chose. You can use a horn relay just as well.

X2 ^^^
The only one I would use, and I don't carry a spare. (Probably just jynxed myself! Now I gotta buy a spare)