quote:

Originally posted by Bad Nusz:
Guy, I'm finally getting around to moving the battery in my S10 to somewhere in the rear of the box, under the tonneau cover.

I'll probably just get a cable kit from Jeg's or Summit or somebody.
There are choices of #2 or #1 gauge cable; I may be able to get #0 as well.

As a lark I may put the cable inside of some smooth PVC flexible conduit, and fasten it to the inside of the frame rail. It only adds a few ounces of weight, mostly in the rear.

I don't think I will need a battery box, but I'll probably bolt down a battery tray for the battery to rest in.

I've got 3/8" bolts and some flat bar to hold down the battery, and I like to use these plastic knobs with 3/8-16 thread to secure that bar. It's much faster to change the battery in an emergency.

The long axis of the battery is perpendicular to the long axis of the truck, as original, and I'll probably mount it the same way back in the box. I'm thinking that the plates are safer that way.

I'm hoping this is worth it. The battery weighs about 43 pounds, but I would need 40 pounds less ballast that way.
I'm hoping for a little more lift in the front with this move,, to help transfer weight to the back on launch.

Thank you
T.

quote:

Originally posted by the rain maker:
My advice is to spend some money freeing up your front suspension. Take a look at some low friction ball joints & control arm bushings. Something like an Afco kit 200-1002 or Del-a-lum bushings or modifying the teeth on your stock bushings will help tremendously. Pair that with some Moroso "Trick" springs or Landrum springs and then move your battery for ballast if you need to.

quote:

Finally someone that provided the OP with good advice. Note his last comment...”IF” which goes back to what I stated...First scale the car. Second setup the suspension. Then move or add weight.

quote:

Originally posted by Bad Nusz:
Lots of great information here, guys; thank you.
Does anyone use a fuse or circuit breaker in the main feed cable? I would think that that cable could carry a lot of fault current if it were grounded somehow.

quote:

Originally posted by the rain maker:


My advice is to spend some money freeing up your front suspension. Take a look at some low friction ball joints & control arm bushings. Something like an Afco kit 200-1002 or Del-a-lum bushings or modifying the teeth on your stock bushings will help tremendously. Pair that with some Moroso "Trick" springs or Landrum springs and then move your battery for ballast if you need to. Freeing up the front on my S10 is the best money I have spent on making the truck repeat. I started with the rear suspension on my S10 and worked my way forward... If I had it to all over again, it would be the exact opposite.

FWIW, I run stock suspension with non coilover bolt in shocks. I moved my battery to the right rear corner for ballast and used 1/0 welding cable.

quote:

Originally posted by BG7X77:
I used a 200amp maxi fuse in line, I run a big alternator 150amp. 300amp would work too as stated. There are a lot of options on holder's I used one commonly used in stereo setups, it's clear and has removable ends and I keep a spare fuse handy. Never had to change one fortunately. Make sure to check your connections regularly as vibration is commonly a problem on race cars. When you think you have enough wire ties or clamps to keep cables from moving add a few more.

quote:

Originally posted by Bad Nusz:

quote:

Originally posted by BG7X77:
I used a 200amp maxi fuse in line, I run a big alternator 150amp. 300amp would work too as stated. There are a lot of options on holder's I used one commonly used in stereo setups, it's clear and has removable ends and I keep a spare fuse handy. Never had to change one fortunately. Make sure to check your connections regularly as vibration is commonly a problem on race cars. When you think you have enough wire ties or clamps to keep cables from moving add a few more.

Thanks to you and 1leg. I didn't realize that you could get maxi-fuses that big. That fuse is a translucent, colored plastic, right? With two blades that plug in?

I currently use a two-pole, or I should say two-fuse holder made by Stinger for Maxi-fuses to feed the two fuse panels in my truck. Stinger makes some pretty nice products I think.

quote:

Originally posted by BG7X77:

No the fuses are black with terminals at each end that attach to an inline holder may be called mega fuses I cant recall I may have that nomenclature incorrect. Google inline battery fuse and you'll see. Local auto parts will have the 75, 100, 200 etc. Fuses you'll get the idea when you see the fuse and holder.

quote:

Originally posted by Bad Nusz:
Thank you much, David. It's nice to hear from another 'Dime' owner.

I checked out that Afco kit; it looks pretty nice. It really made a big difference for you then? I think I could justify the $400 expense when I think of all the times I lost in the first money round! I wonder about doing new tubular control arms at the same time.....

I'm going to be a little pressed for time, as I'll only have about ten days to work before test & tune weekend, after I return from a road trip. I've got a bunch of other things to do with the truck yet, including taking it off the jack stands to load it up to take it to an exhaust shop for new head pipes.

The job would no doubt include dealing with the front springs and whatnot. I'm not really a mechanic, but I can do it given enough time.

I'm going through Lincoln, Nebraska this weekend, and will probably stop at Speedway Motors and do some shopping.

Thanks again!
Troy

quote:

Originally posted by Bad Nusz:

quote:

Originally posted by BG7X77:

No the fuses are black with terminals at each end that attach to an inline holder may be called mega fuses I cant recall I may have that nomenclature incorrect. Google inline battery fuse and you'll see. Local auto parts will have the 75, 100, 200 etc. Fuses you'll get the idea when you see the fuse and holder.

Okay, gotcha. I'll check it out.
Thx, man
T.