quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
It is a bad idea without knowledge, data and facts.

1. Without scaling first, he does not know what his corner weighs are and his corners may be close with the battery in the stock location as was my Chevelle.

2. Without scaling how does he know exactly where to put the battery to get his corners right?

FYI, my batteries are no longer in the nose, moved that 45 lbs. back about 4 feet and of course rescaled the car.

Why Scale it Curly says it doesn't tell you much.. Go to the track and tune it there LUL

A car like the OP probably is not going to need a scale to tell him that weight is better had in the bed of an S10. As usual it ends up about some chevelle most people on here could care less about and had absolutely zero to do with his question. Obviously scaling is great but MANY MANY MANY cars over the last 3 decades have been setup fine at the track especially when they are lower hp applications like the OP. There is always better and scales are better bit here is a news flash. Not everyone has access to scales or can afford to buy a set for a one car operation that is relatively low hp. If he can get to scales by all means.....BUT HARDLY A NECESSITY IN THIS APPLICATION. FACT!

and clueless!

Scaling a car is important and for someone like Tim McAmis who built the car he can scale it and get it performing right out of the gate. Because he knows everything in the car and how it is set up.

For this truck we do not even know what suspension, what horsepower, what springs, what shocks, if it is four link, ladder bar or what ever. We do not know if it has good tires or Hoosiers on it, what tracks he races or anything else and so how you going to say scale it and set it up? What magic number you think going to make it work?

I would take the car /truck out and get it working right then scale it and that will be your baseline. It will not hurt it to scale it first but the numbers on the scale are not as important as getting the car and suspension working right.

I think it is pretty ridiculous to say what it needs when you do not even know what it has. You do not even know if it has a 1400 Hp Pro Stock motor or Stock LT-1 350 but you know what it needs to be scaled at? Right. Lol.

Find out what you got, video it and see how it is working then make changes to make it work then scale it to get your baseline. Scaling the car those numbers you get do not mean anything if you can not get the car to hook and go straight and consistent.

I have a set of scales and I use them but you can not take the numbers that work good on my car and put them on your car and make it work like mine does.

I will say this at the performance level of the original poster asking the question (Remember him?) I think it would help him to move the battery to the rear of the truck. So to answer the OP's question, yes absolutely move the battery. Also I think it is a good idea no matter where your battery is to have a battery cut-off in case of a wreck or fire the track crew can shut down the power. On my cars I have master power cut off and I have an electric solenoid power switch so I can kill power from inside the car.

One other thing I put a fuse on my remote battery charging lug as have have it come loose and short out. Caused a lot of problems that a simple fuse could have eliminated.

Do what you want we were asked what we would do and we answered.

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:
I think it is pretty ridiculous to say what it needs when you do not even know what it has. You do not even know if it has a 1400 Hp Pro Stock motor or Stock LT-1 350 but you know what it needs to be scaled at? Right. Lol.

I know, clearly you don’t!

Sorry guys; just so you know:

My springs are all stock, and only last season did I install Calvert 90/10 drag shocks on the front, and later on Calvert single-adjustable shocks on the back.

Wheel hop is controlled with a pair of Cal-Tracs. The roll pin just touches, and is set 1/2 turn tighter than that.

I have not yet done anything to otherwise 'free up' the suspension, by installing low-friction ball joints and control arm bushings.

My horsepower is more modest, with 1/4-mile ETs in the 11.80-11.90 range or so. 60-foots are around 1.6 seconds.

I will have new Hoosier 28x10 slicks installed, purchased straight from Hoosier (I learned my lesson about buying from Jeg's....)

Track prep is normally pretty good at my 'home' track.

Thanks guys,
T.

Wiring with welding cable.

Guys, I read some recommendations to use welding cable in my battery relocate project. What are the advantages of using that cable vs the cable supplied in battery relocation kits?

I may in fact fuse my charging post cable, as Curly1 recommended, though my charging posts will be under the hood and otherwise downstream from the main fuse.

Thanks again,
T.

quote:

Originally posted by BG7X77:
Only suggestion for cutoff switch I would make is use a Cole Hersee 75912-BX DPST. 4 pole switch. Isolate alternator. Works like a charm. There are other methods that work perfectly fine this is the one I chose. You can use a horn relay just as well.

Thank you. Will that extra pole on the cutoff switch carry the current of the alternator directly, or must I install a power relay?

Jumper between the posts in on position.

Off keeps alternator off of rest of the circuits.

In answer to your question about the use of welding cable.

There are several reasons.

#1. The finer strand wire is more flexible and less prone to breakage.

#2. The finer strand cable has a little less resistance per foot. That translates to less voltage drop to the front of the vehicle. Take the starter draw in amps and multiply it by the resistance of the length of the battery cable to get the voltage drop when starting. You might easily pick up close to a 1 volt increase in starter voltage by going to the bigger cable.

#3. The rated capacity of the 1/0 welding cable in amps for use in a DC application for chassis wiring is between 150-245 depending on the cables insulation and how it is installed in the vehicle. A #2 cable has a current carrying capacity of 94-181 Amps.

Heat and the wires insulation are factors that also determine much current a wire can carry. When the wire gets over it's minimum heat rating the resistance per foot increases and the current carrying capacity decreases.

quote:

Originally posted by Joe Burkleo:
In answer to your question about the use of welding cable.

There are several reasons.

#1. The finer strand wire is more flexible and less prone to breakage.

#2. The finer strand cable has a little less resistance per foot. That translates to less voltage drop to the front of the vehicle. Take the starter draw in amps and multiply it by the resistance of the length of the battery cable to get the voltage drop when starting. You might easily pick up close to a 1 volt increase in starter voltage by going to the bigger cable.

#3. The rated capacity of the 1/0 welding cable in amps for use in a DC application for chassis wiring is between 150-245 depending on the cables insulation and how it is installed in the vehicle. A #2 cable has a current carrying capacity of 94-181 Amps.

Heat and the wires insulation are factors that also determine much current a wire can carry. When the wire gets over it's minimum heat rating the resistance per foot increases and the current carrying capacity decreases.

Well said.

Bad Nusz I sent you a PM.

quote:

Originally posted by Bad Nusz:
Will that extra pole on the cutoff switch carry the current of the alternator directly, or must I install a power relay?

No relay needed for the alternator / charging circuit.
DO yourself a favor and try to buy the battery box without the crappy undersize 2 or 4 gauge wiring they all come with. That is the major cost and it is useless, unless you have a low compression 4 cylinder engine. Also, #0 or 1/0 welding cable will be fine, I used 2/0 because I have a high compression big block, and a really long run from battery to starter. It will admit it was overkill, added some unnecessary weight and expense, could have used 1/0 and been fine.
If you have a bigger NAPA store nearby, check their prices, that is where I bought my cable, (sold by the foot). It was less than the closest welding supply shops. They also sold me the fittings you'll need to screw onto the ends of the cable, for connecting to the studs on the switch and starter/solenoid.