quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:
All depends on the pill/nozzle tune up and rpm range. I use a 0-200

Thank you for the info.

quote:

Originally posted by 183N:


Since you mentioned the surge tank setup is new, I’d investigate that and make sure it’s working properly before sending the pump in. Perhaps it’s starving the pump of fuel. Also make sure it can’t be sucking air anywhere on the inlet side of the pump such as from a leaky fitting. If the pump was fine when you put it on the shelf it’s unlikely that it’s all of a sudden 25psi low.

That is a very good point. 3 times I have found a small leak in system and all it took was to fix leak. Two of those times I had friends come to borrow one of my spare pumps. Both times they found the bottom fitting had come loose and it was sucking some air. Was not leaking alcohol but would suck some air when trying to pull fuel in. Tighten fitting back up and it ran number again.

I have ran one pump for about 8 years and it still puts out same pressure and volume as before. The Enderle pump is a gear drive similar to an oil pump and they just do not wear out that much.

As for Mechanical injection some say you have to run at least 150 PSI to atomize the fuel. I have ran it at 150 Plus and I have ran it under 40 PSI with no difference at all. Also many Dyno pulls and passes with Data Logger and O2 to monitor every cylinder. The motor uses X pounds of fuel per pound of air and it does not know or care what pressure it goes into motor.

quote:

I have ran one pump for about 8 years and it still puts out same pressure and volume as before. The Enderle pump is a gear drive similar to an oil pump and they just do not wear out that much.

Agreed. When I bought my car (07) it had a Rons 0 gear rotor pump. After reading what others had posted, in 2013 I sent it to Rons to be checked and needed the mounting plate replaced. The pump shop called me and this older sounding gentleman wanted to know what I ran with this pump as he said he never seen gears polished so smooth. He said it was an older pump from the mid to late 80’s and actually flows slightly more than a new pump now. I told him to look at the pump fittings, it’s plumbed backwards (in side feed the barrel valve). He said “yes but the pump don’t know it”.

I ran that 0 pump with my new EFI in 2021 for several months but switched to the same style Rons 0-1/2 to gain more pressure at idle running the system at 4 bar.

Well the pump is on the way to Ron's to get flow checked, they said worse case if it needs new gears and wear plate it would be $250 plus the ride. Money well spent, that pump owes me nothing

So I have a 461" SB2 in my dragster. 1820 lbs, best has been 4.71 @ 145, 7.54 @ 175 with a 1600 Twin blade on Q16, on non oxygenated a 2.250 throttle blade 4 barrel was about .04 slower. I have run up to a 2.800 on Q16, it was only .05 slow. The problem with methanol is it makes lots of torque, however a properly set up car with sufficient gear and converter runs the RPM's well past peak torque. SB2's carry HP well past peak HP with gas, and methanol does not. Mine runs best with the stall between 6600-6900 even though peak HP was at 7100. Current gear is 4.30. Trap RPM in the 1/4 is 7900 with 32" tall tires, taller tires slows the car down.

quote:

Originally posted by jmarkaudio: I have a 461" SB2 in my dragster. Mine runs best with the stall between 6600-6900 even though peak HP was at 7100. Current gear is 4.30. Trap RPM in the 1/4 is 7900

If max hp is achieved at 7100 rpm, how much hp is the engine producing at 7900 rpm? What rpm is used for 1/8 mile? Can you share the dyno printout?

quote:

Originally posted by jmarkaudio:
So I have a 461" SB2 in my dragster. 1820 lbs, best has been 4.71 @ 145, 7.54 @ 175 with a 1600 Twin blade on Q16, on non oxygenated a 2.250 throttle blade 4 barrel was about .04 slower. I have run up to a 2.800 on Q16, it was only .05 slow. The problem with methanol is it makes lots of torque, however a properly set up car with sufficient gear and converter runs the RPM's well past peak torque. SB2's carry HP well past peak HP with gas, and methanol does not. Mine runs best with the stall between 6600-6900 even though peak HP was at 7100. Current gear is 4.30. Trap RPM in the 1/4 is 7900 with 32" tall tires, taller tires slows the car down.

With mfi you can, just add in a high speed to bleed off a bit of fuel up top.....

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:
Looks like I have a worn/failing fuel pump. Pulled some old data logs from this motor and compared to the runs this weekend, fuel pressure is down 25psi at the same RPM with the same pill/nozzle tune up. This Ron's 0-1/2 Twin gear billet pump is 12 years old, was ran 6 seasons then sat on the shelf another 6 years.
Going to send it to Ron's and put it on the flow bench and see what I have

Update:
Happy pump = Happy MFI
Took the truck out yesterday after getting the pump resealed at Ron's, seals were hard and brittle from sitting so long and was sucking air.
Previous best on gas was 5.31 @ 129 and 5.41 @ 126 on MFI. Yesterday it ran 5.176, 5.192, 5,193, 5.174 lane to lane at just under 134 mph. 60ft was in the high 1.15 to low 1.16 range

^^^^^Excellent update Steve. How much faster is 60’ now with MFI compared to gas carb? Did this help reduce underhood/ coolant temps?

Best 60 in the past was 1.9x but low 1.23s was typical. Coolant temps were much more manageable then on gas. Used 1.5 gallons fuel per run including drive up and back which was exactly what this engine used in the past.
This truck would really benefit from getting a scoop but there is no way in hell I will cut a hole in the hood, it is what it is.
First bracket race in 2 weeks

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve: This truck would really benefit from getting a scoop but there is no way in hell I will cut a hole in the hood

Remove the hood and make a pass. Same or better than a scoop imho. My bet is that you won’t see .02 difference from having hood off/on in back to back runs.

You have a 2100 TB on top of an engine that can’t consume all it has available (great part about M/EFI).

I think it would benefit the MPH more than the ET but doesn't matter, its not going to happen anyways

Anything stopping you from making up a ram air tube?

quote:

Originally posted by Dave Koehler:
Anything stopping you from making up a ram air tube?

Dave I have never given it any thought, hood clearance could be an issue. These original PST had a air pan that funnels air from the nose and sealed off the rest of the engine. All the tabs are there but the pan is long gone. There may still be a mold out there somewhere if someone really wanted to add one. I am just not going to worry about it since I am only 1/8 mile bracket racing. If I was going to run 1/4 mile TS the scoop would be a no brainer to add but then I would need a much bigger engine then this little 565

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:
These original PST had a air pan that funnels air from the nose and sealed off the rest of the engine. All the tabs are there but the pan is long gone. There may still be a mold out there somewhere if someone really wanted to add one. I am just not going to worry about it since I am only 1/8 mile bracket racing.

We ran with the hood off & tried an air pan for fresh air from the cowl area. The best thing we did for ET consistency was to pull fresh air from the nose!

2BKING

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:

quote:

Originally posted by Dave Koehler:
Anything stopping you from making up a ram air tube?

Dave I have never given it any thought, hood clearance could be an issue. These original PST had a air pan that funnels air from the nose and sealed off the rest of the engine. All the tabs are there but the pan is long gone. There may still be a mold out there somewhere if someone really wanted to add one. I am just not going to worry about it since I am only 1/8 mile bracket racing. If I was going to run 1/4 mile TS the scoop would be a no brainer to add but then I would need a much bigger engine then this little 565

It is said that Dragster wings begin having an effect around 60 mph.
I have to think that ram air would follow that thinking.
There is also the cooler outside air making the engine happy.

quote:

Originally posted by B KING:

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:
These original PST had a air pan that funnels air from the nose and sealed off the rest of the engine. All the tabs are there but the pan is long gone. There may still be a mold out there somewhere if someone really wanted to add one. I am just not going to worry about it since I am only 1/8 mile bracket racing.

We ran with the hood off & tried an air pan for fresh air from the cowl area. The best thing we did for ET consistency was to pull fresh air from the nose!

2BKING

I like that!! Simple but effective

I like the idea of running an air filter to. The dust and dirt at some of these tracks is terrible and hard on your rings. Those K&N type filters do not stop it all but sure help with out restricting air flow too much.

I have just got my 463" SBC SB2 parts except for pushrods in finally so there is going to be a change of plans here. My first points race is in 5 weeks and I still have to assemble everything, dyno and then if it does good on dyno rip all of the electronics out of the car and change wiring etc. Plus I need to test a lot with new combination before points race. In fact that has been problem last 2 years, I have not ran same car or same combination maybe 3 times total.
So now I am going to put a restrictor plate and alcohol carb on my old motor to slow it down and run NE3. Will go ahead and dyno motor before I make decisions on that combination. I may make changes and dyno this motor several times before I put it in and run it.

my 598 made more power on alky carb on same dyno same day just swapping carbs,15.5 compression