pad wear and rotor replacement due to some pads is all predicated on how much you use your brakes before the race is over. As I stated previously, if you only used them for slowing down after the stripe, they will last years. The "black" is what I used and my rotors were garbage in less than a full season.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1320racer,

Be sure to open the lower bleeders first when flushing / bleeding. In the past, I always figured the lower bleeders were just for when the caliper was mounter the other way as the air will always rise, but I've learned otherwise.... you will see some nasty fluid come out of the lower bleeders as the crap settles at the bottom of the piston bore.

Please don’t run DOT 5….

Tom is obviously scared , yet he doesn't speak from 1st hand experience because he's never filled his brake system with DOT5! He's just an old guy that choses to believe what he read in the 70s as well the internet forum myth, rumor and hearsay about DOT5. Meanwhile, I've been using DOT5 since 2006 and I guarantee some of his competitors along with thousands of racers all across the country have DOT5 in their brake system without issue or concern.

Further think about all those children running Half Scale junior dragsters with DOT5 in their brake system for 30 years and that will be competing at Bristol in 3 weeks

quote:

Originally posted by Stephen Hughes:

quote:

Originally posted by pauley:
1290 is correct on the hawk pads. that is what i run and it is a set of rotor every other year and my wheels look powder coated with the dust.

ep-but it will stop if it has to at the stripe.

Which compound do you run? I run the “Black” compound and do get a decent amount of dust but rotors have been on the car several years without issue. I use the strange 2 piece “floating” rotors.

i run the DR97 pads pretty sure they are hawk. they are black and supposedly the most aggressive. i am very hard on brakes.

ep

The only thing i use, is the only thing Wildwood has that is any good, and that is there brake fluid. Non better in my experience

Put DOT5 in and your opinion will change

quote:

Originally posted by 329L:
The only thing i use, is the only thing Wildwood has that is any good, and that is there brake fluid. Non better in my experience

Some engineers would agree. Good stuff.

quote:

Originally posted by 329L:
The only thing i use, is the only thing Wildwood has that is any good, and that is there brake fluid. Non better in my experience

me to

Wilwood's brake fluid too looks nothing like what was poured from the bottle when flushed.

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
Wilwood's brake fluid too looks nothing like what was poured from the bottle when flushed.

I was using the Napa DOT 5 before i switched to the wildwood 15 years ago, and it would be black in less than a season. In all fairness, the tracks near where i live all have 1300' or less of shutdown, so we are naturally harder on brakes than most.

DOT5 silicone fluid can’t go black

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
DOT5 silicone fluid can’t go black

It did.... I will admit, I can fk some chit up....

quote:

Originally posted by 329L:

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
DOT5 silicone fluid can’t go black

It did.... I will admit, I can fk some chit up....

Dot 5 does not mix with water its silicone based, physically impossible, you sure it wasn't 5.1.

It had to be 5.1

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
Again, brake systems need to be flushed every season, it’s then you’ll find your DOT3, 4, 5.1 is black and smells burnt! Now is when you install DOT5 and you’ll never have black, cooked fluid again. I also recommend using Motive’s power bleeder for the task, no better way to do it resulting in the best pedal you’ve ever had.

Ed, Looking at what you posted I just purchased that same Motive power bleeder for 3 tab Mopar caps. I have MW rear calipers with the 4 bleeders (top, bottom , both sides).

Here’s my question. The fluid goes into the caliper from the middle inside surface. What method do you use to get all the old fluid out of these calipers? Does one need to bleed using the bottom bleeders?

Mark, all the bleed screws are opened and I run a full quart through the system that’s why there are 2 quarts in the photo.

Ed, just to be clear. Is that a full quart for the whole system, all four calipers combined, or per caliper? My brain won’t clear up this morning.

Update on this....Busy week, haven't dug much into it yet, but it's got Moser brakes on it, not strange. That means I most likely have hawk pads on there.

Is there a way to confirm that one of the other brands will work with these? Does anyone have any first hand knowledge with a Moser setup?

quote:

Originally posted by Wooley:
Ed, just to be clear. Is that a full quart for the whole system, all four calipers combined, or per caliper? My brain won’t clear up this morning.

1 quart will easily completely flush your 4 caliper system. I fill the Power Bleeder with 2 quarts just to make sure it doesn't get low and put air into the system, brake fluid is cheap.