Hey guys, it's time to service the brakes on my dragster. What is everyone using for pads and fluid? I want to go ahead and put fresh fluid in it as well.

I want an aggressive pad but not anything that is going to chew up the rotors every year. I don't hold a tenth in the 1/8 and slide the rear tires or anything like that, but I'm looking for something more aggressive than what I have now.

I believe it has all strange stuff on it now, but that doesn't really matter to me as long as I can mix and match brands and keep the rotors and calipers I have.

Thanks in advance for the suggestions.

I run Ferodo pads in my Mark Williams calipers and DOT5 silicone fluid. Never have chewed up rotors and it's the only fluid that isn't black when it comes time to flush the system before the start of every season. Aggressive enough to be able to kill double digit MPH but not too where it will lock up.

TBM pads for the win!

Run what the manufacturer recommend.

MW: 4 or 5.1

Strange:
WHAT BRAKE FLUID SHOULD I USE ?
We recommend DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 only, and stay away from silicone brake fluid. There are some Hi Temp versions of DOT 5.1 that offer higher protection against boiling the fluid. You must be careful with brake fluid as it will soften paint if spilled. The brake fluid should be changed every year before the car is run for the season.

While in storage, condensation will accumulate in the system. One feature of brake fluid is the absorption of water. When replacing the fluid, you are also removing the water and protecting the system. When water is allowed to stay in the system, it corrodes parts and lowers the boiling point of the fluid.

Silicone brake fluid doesn’t eat paint and that’s it’s only real feature. One of the down sides are it will not absorb water like normal brake fluid. You are never sure that all the water has been removed during flushing. Once agitated, it is very difficult to get the air out of the system. If the car previously had normal brake fluid and you are switching to silicone, any amount left of the previous fluid will have a chemical reaction leading to problems in the future.

quote:

Originally posted by BG7X77:
The brake fluid should be changed every year before the car is run for the season.

this is the only part of the above drivel that is true yet the majority of bracket racers never do and many are running with fluid that is 10 years and older!

That said, countless drag cars are built with DOT5 silicone including the factory stock eliminator COPOs as well Undercover dragsters back in the day.

DOT5 works better because it doesn't boil when braking in our race cars like DOT3, 4 or 5.1 does.

I've also read that DOT5 is used in military vehicles too.

I simply said listen to the manufacturer.

Do whatever you want. If it started as 5, probably best to stick that route, if it didn't, don't switch, mixing is not recommended.

Again, brake systems need to be flushed every season, it’s then you’ll find your DOT3, 4, 5.1 is black and smells burnt! Now is when you install DOT5 and you’ll never have black, cooked fluid again. I also recommend using Motive’s power bleeder for the task, no better way to do it resulting in the best pedal you’ve ever had.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1320racer,

From Mark Williams website.

https://www.markwilliams.com/braketech.html

quote:

Brake Lines and Fluid
Aircraft AN-3 brake lines and fittings are recommended. Only stainless steel braided teflon hose, stainless or seamless steel tubing (3/16” x .028”) should be used for brake lines. MW has available swaged Teflon Stainless flexible braided line that can be fabricated on a same day basis. The are available online (P/N 0300-X-X). Lines should be secured to chassis rails to resist vibration and routed in such a way to avoid possible contact with wheels, tires and other moving parts. Joining hard line and braided line or “T”s should be done using a bulkhead fitting and a small tab welded to the chassis. Long runs should be done with hard tubing to avoid expansion of flexible line. The amount of flexible braided hose in the system should be kept to a minimum. See page 64 or the online store for AN -3 fittings and brake line. Use of DOT 4 or 5.1 fluid with a high boiling point and lubrication for seals and pistons is recommended. Do not use (DOT 5) silicone fluids .

When the manufacturer says not to use a specific type of fluid with their parts, I'd listen to them.

call Jason at MW and ask him

I run MW brakes in both cars and both car's brake systems have been filled from birth with DOT5 fluid same as my son's Half scale junior dragsters from birth.

Again, flush your brake system just once after a full season of racing and the smelly black liquid that comes out looks nothing like what was poured from the bottle and should be enough to convince anyone that the DOT3, 4, 5.1 brake fluid they are using isn't up to the task but some here would have difficulty finding their master cylinder.

Several here as well racers I know have had their brakes fail due to boiled, old DOT3, 4 and 5.1 fluid but not 1 with DOT5!

BTW, fleet vehicles come with DOT5 fluid in them too.

Now if you only used your brakes to slow down after the stripe, you're not a successful bracket racer and maybe your fluid is grey. your pads also last seasons, ours 100 passes and they get swapped.

Looks like I need to tear into it so that I get the right parts.

Ed, do you happen to know any part numbers for the bleeder or brake pads you use? Looks like there are several power bleeder kits from summit from motive.

If you do not have the part numbers handy, do you have a contact I can call direct that can lead me in the correct direction? I can certainly pick up the phone and make some calls.

I think I will go with the manufacturers recommendation over some guys opinion on the internet.

You do you and I'll do me.

Ferodo pads #B1130. The actual power bleeder is the same IIRC, what you need is the correct adapter cap for your master cylinder. I have adapters for both the Tilton MC in my dragster and the black Mopar style MC in my Firebird.

If you would like to discuss anything I've stated, PM me so we can get away from internet forum myth, rumor, hearsay and opinion and talk FACTS.

Ed- Ok, thanks. I will do some digging.

Tom, I will do my due diligence and see what I can find out from the builder and vendor. Thanks for sharing the info.

I plan on flushing it all out and starting with fresh new fluid and power bleeding it as well.

Stating to follow manufacturer's recommendations is now hearsay, opinion and myth. Interesting.

I follow the recommendations of my chassis/car builders..Undercover Motorsports, MPR Race Cars and Half Scale Dragsters who are not only the best at what they do but also racers! I do not follow manufactures who's printed information is written by lawyers.

Any feed back on hawk pads? I see that's what Moser sells.

My 1st hand experience with Hawk pads many years ago on my Chevelle, is they were very aggressive, ate my Wilwood rotors and emitted excessive brake dust.

That said, my very good friends with a fleet of dragsters run Hawk's HB100M.480 pads on their dragsters with strange calipers.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1320racer,

I have been really happy with the TBM pads with MW calipers, they bed in quickly and stop first pass. Only issue is above average dust on the wheels and since Motion industries bought TBM and moved them to Florida the price has jumped up about $45 a set

1290 is correct on the hawk pads. that is what i run and it is a set of rotor every other year and my wheels look powder coated with the dust.

ep-but it will stop if it has to at the stripe.

quote:

Originally posted by pauley:
1290 is correct on the hawk pads. that is what i run and it is a set of rotor every other year and my wheels look powder coated with the dust.

ep-but it will stop if it has to at the stripe.

Which compound do you run? I run the “Black” compound and do get a decent amount of dust but rotors have been on the car several years without issue. I use the strange 2 piece “floating” rotors.