I was old school and built my own. Engine stand doubles as a transmission stand with a different head. It’s kind of a Rube Goldberg affair but it works.
Very seldom use it anymore.
Clowns to the left of me, Jokers to the right. Here I am.......
Posts: 5310 | Location: stuck in the middle with you! | Registered: March 11, 2002
My 35 year old Lakewood engine stand is very stout because of the thickness of the steel it's made from, I've had iron headed BBC's on it a bunch of times without concern. The only issue is, it's only 3 wheeled, so you have to be careful when moving it around, that being said the 3 wheel design is much better to work around because you don't bang your feet on the two front wheels sticking out. Also on any engine stand, mount the engine as low as possible on the head, it makes it less top heavy and easier to rotate the engine.
I also have a 50 year old Walker engine crane that has been awesome for the last 40 years I've had it. Only the wheels at the handle/jack end swivel, so when you move it across the shop it goes where you point it, unlike the ones with 4 swivel wheels. Plus the front wheels that carry most of the weight are large diameter, making it much easier to move around with weight on it.
Of course both of these were made before the China junk was even thought of.........
272" Spitzer 540 Chevy The Blower Shop XR1 FTI XPM Series Converter FTI Level 6 Powerglide 3.69@199 .916 60'
2017 Bradenton Heads Up Madness Open Outlaw Champ
2018 PDRA T/D #5 2019 PDRA T/D #2
2020 Retired From T/D Competition....
2020 Bradenton NMCA Hemi Shootout Winner
2021 getting back into bracket racing with a Gen3 Hemi powered 87 Cutlass.
Posts: 3100 | Location: Yes | Registered: July 08, 2009
Originally posted by "The Bender": My 35 year old Lakewood engine stand is very stout because of the thickness of the steel it's made from, I've had iron headed BBC's on it a bunch of times without concern. The only issue is, it's only 3 wheeled, so you have to be careful when moving it around, that being said the 3 wheel design is much better to work around because you don't bang your feet on the two front wheels sticking out. Also on any engine stand, mount the engine as low as possible on the head, it makes it less top heavy and easier to rotate the engine.
I also have a 50 year old Walker engine crane that has been awesome for the last 40 years I've had it. Only the wheels at the handle/jack end swivel, so when you move it across the shop it goes where you point it, unlike the ones with 4 swivel wheels. Plus the front wheels that carry most of the weight are large diameter, making it much easier to move around with weight on it.
Of course both of these were made before the China junk was even thought of.........
I've got a yellow three wheel Lakewood stand I've had since the early 1980's.
I could C-clamp this bakers tray to the center leg on it.
The only thing I didn't like about this crank stand was the tray was too narrow to just lay on the two wheel post outriggers.
Just looking at your pics gave me a good idea, which looks like you're incorporating.
I have a large vise on my bench, but I've also inherited vices through the years. They are just sitting. I think I'm going to mount one on the opposite end of the bench to secure the long pieces of material.
Full disclosure: All vices we're made in the USA. They're probably older than me. Hell, my air compressor is 2 years older than I am! One of them has a patent on it from 1876 if I remember correctly. Lol
Originally posted by M120: Just looking at your pics gave me a good idea, which looks like you're incorporating.
I have a large vise on my bench, but I've also inherited vices through the years. They are just sitting. I think I'm going to mount one on the opposite end of the bench to secure the long pieces of material.
Full disclosure: All vices we're made in the USA. They're probably older than me. Hell, my air compressor is 2 years older than I am! One of them has a patent on it from 1876 if I remember correctly. Lol
I run two vices on the bench, so I can do an engine and transmission at the same time. My transmission jig / stand uses the smaller vice, and I can file rings off the bigger of the two.
Quite often I'm doing both, same time.
Works out T I T S
This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,
Im going to build fixture like MW sells to be able to do trans and third members but make it slide in my engine stand did make a head for it with a vise mounted is noise to be able to have one portable
Posts: 387 | Location: Natick MA | Registered: November 15, 2017
I found that when you buy Jegs or Summit or even Harbor Freight branded items, you have to buy and try to find out how they hold up. For example, I buy the Summit brand mini starter which holds up just as well as the brand names do. Being in the heavy equipment/truck repair business, I bought a harbor freight 1 inch drive long nose impact for doing truck tires/brakes 20 plus years ago and it has worked better than my CP wrench does. I bought a dual anvil when they first came out from Harbor Freight to be able to have one on each side of the truck, they have been flawless.I also purchased a 16 hp twin cylinder 30 gallon compressor from them when they first came out 25 plus years ago and all I have ever done is change the oil. I havent even replaced the belt yet. On the other side of the coin, I found out you dont buy fuses, zip ties, bungee straps from Harbor Freight. I get that stuff from Napa. In other words, there are pluses and minuses to buying foreign, sometimes it takes trial and error to find out.
Posts: 297 | Location: Nevada | Registered: February 01, 2009
This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow, 
