I've been working on gathering parts for our new 2023 ARC Deuces Wild double dragster build with a goal of lightening them up significantly. Pretty amazing all the gadgets we bolt to our junk and how it adds up.

I'm trying to pay attention to as much as I can without building a A/ND or A/ED car and I have to say there is plenty of room to cut weight.

Stay tuned for more on the Deuces Wild dragster builds featuring 2023 American Race Cars' built chassis.

SL...

This message has been edited. Last edited by: DragRaceResults,

Weight has always equaled free HP great time to 'put er on a diet" is during new build am doing that myself with new to me 67 Chevy11

I have to weigh 3845 pounds with driver for my class.In order to move up to the next class, I can weigh 175 pounds less.
It's pretty hard to get 175 pounds out of the car with a "heavy driver".

My bracket 65 442 has ran stock and super stock and for many years now brackets. The first bracket race they had at Galot I won $100 from someone that could not believe my car weighed less than 3000lbs. At that time it weighed 2880 on their brand new calibrated scales. You start drilling holes and replacing steel bolts, nuts, etc plus lots of fiberglass, plastic, and aluminum it gets real light. Ask Danny Bastinelli up in Delaware.

I make no bones about it, if we get #MEAN GREEN up to speed, it'll be relatively fast, solely because it's light,,,, aluminum block, 100 lb driver.

It don't make real power. Cylinder heads are weak. Nothing wrong with it though,,, reliable - low maintenance.

Building a new car right now and I am making very few if any considerations based on weight, but instead based on longevity

25.2 chassis spec 4-link strut front end. All steel body including the front clip. Glass windows with electric roll up

I am still up in the air if I want to go 16 volt or not. If I go 16 volt though it’s not because I care about the weight savings

If you ever saw how much crap I haul around in my trunk, you'd know just how little I care about weight. Take care. Tom Worthington

Weight is near top of list. While somethings are a must.A lot of what is on a bunch of cars is just convenience or impress others IMO.

Most everyone here knows I love to cut weight when possible and look for everything I can.Watch fasteners. Most run bigger bolts than needed and more bolts than needed. While minute they add up quick. A piece of .030 aluminum with rolled bead is stronger than .040 and 25% lighter. Welds are lot lighter than bolts with nut and washer. Titanium bolts are lot cheaper than use to be although high for weight loss.

I will cut it short but there are lots of places you can cut weight if you study on it. Number one is in the seat.LOL

Just call PAR LOL

quote:

Originally posted by WHOMPWHOMP:
Just call PAR LOL

Can probably build a much nicer engine for what a bunch of titanium products cost for weight savings

quote:

Just call PAR LOL

Oh I got engine builders

SL... Deuces Wild about to show up

Really? The titanium bolts in my car have been there over 25 years, how many years do you suppose that PAR engine will last?

I do. Aluminum nuts and bolts in areas that aren’t stressed. It’s cheap horsepower and the lighter it is the easier on everything.

My roadster with me race ready.

quote:

Originally posted by ferndaleflyer:
Really? The titanium bolts in my car have been there over 25 years, how many years do you suppose that PAR engine will last?

IDK an don’t care I just run the shyt out of um….they build um everyday

I am always looking to save weight with in reason. I am not spending stupid money on Titanium fasteners or anything like that. Has to be cost effective. I do try to size my radiator small enough to cool good and not too heavy, try to basically design it so it does not have waste but can do everything I need it to. I look at everything on the car and see if there is a better way to do it. faster, better, lighter. Weight is important on a car not only how much it weighs but where it is located.

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
I do. Aluminum nuts and bolts in areas that aren’t stressed. It’s cheap horsepower and the lighter it is the easier on everything.

My roadster with me race ready.

Braggart! Or just a little more smart than me.

quote:

Originally posted by TheBlueTruck:

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
I do. Aluminum nuts and bolts in areas that aren’t stressed. It’s cheap horsepower and the lighter it is the easier on everything.

My roadster with me race ready.

Braggart! Or just a little more smart than me.

I have no minimum weight though. Your truck is pretty though so we’re even.

In any boosted application, its so easy to make enough power to go too fast anymore, I'd rather have beefier parts rather than light parts.

If the car is going to be NA, depending on the engine size I might look into it.

You`d be surprised if you knew how much weight is in wiring and hardware. If you replaced all of your bolts with titanium hardware on your bead locks, that would be a huge amount loss on rotational weight.

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:

quote:

Originally posted by TheBlueTruck:

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
I do. Aluminum nuts and bolts in areas that aren’t stressed. It’s cheap horsepower and the lighter it is the easier on everything.

My roadster with me race ready.

Braggart! Or just a little more smart than me.

I have no minimum weight though. Your truck is pretty though so we’re even.

That`s pretty heavy for a roadster. I know 2 people that have a late model Olds Cutlass that weighs 1950LBS without driver and a 2002 Camaro also 1910LBS without driver. Both with BBC`s.