If building a car, start with one that is light from the factory, but I'm not hanging fiberglass on my car either..

I can't really speak to dragsters, but if just running a regular 5.80-6.50 bracket door car, I'd start light, because having a lighter car is much easier on parts, and goes faster with less.

But if you want to build a '76 impala station wagon, then you do you.

Lighter is more reliable, less maintenance even if you're talking kindergartner big wheels.

The less time it takes from A to B, the narrower the window for error/inconsistency too.

Common sense

If you can't make a dragster good, you need a new hobby.

A dragster is the biggest hammer in the tool chest.

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Originally posted by DragRaceResults:

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I am sure some of the elites beaten by Nick Hastings in a funny looking car foot braking got their feelings hurt. And just how many races and money has he won?

Bingo!

That car isn’t as light as it looks…… about #2725 w/ driver as I recall

I have always tried to save weight where it can be done. If your buying new parts the cost is a little bit more, if your replacing something you already have, it gets pricey. Wheels, lug nuts, wheel studs, drive shaft,axles, brakes,nuts, bolts etc... The wing on my car is 17# and worth .03 / 1 mph in the 1/8th. Somewhere you can look to save weight is the dragster body. My car is made with .050 thick aluminum ( why?) I didnt build it ! this is about 15 lbs heavier than an .040 body. I honestly think my old '97 pipe had an .030 body. It was pretty flimsy. I dont know how carbon body compares to those. You can save alot of weight if your concious of it.

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Originally posted by 27Keith:
You can save alot of weight if your willing to pay for it

edited for the TRUTH and the FACTS

Well switching to aluminum blocks is about the best bang for the buck in term of total weight beign saved for dollars spent, although they are getting spendy for sure.

quote:

Originally posted by Al Alguire:
Well switching to aluminum blocks is about the best bang for the buck in term of total weight beign saved for dollars spent, although they are getting spendy for sure.

Funny you mentioned this today. I've been on the phone with Brodix & my engine builder. About an aluminum sbc block for our 302, looks like it will be around 6k. Got the Brodix quote form completed this afternoon.

2BKING

We run an aluminum block in the Vette simply for weight.We know it costs some power but only way we can get close to minimum weight. It is a Dart block that we havem well over $6K in its hipped with a cam core Dart would not put in it(60MM) so it went to Westin for that. It will likely get a clamshell next year we are hoping. BUt this is way off topic for a bracket deal...

quote:

Originally posted by Al Alguire:
We run an aluminum block in the Vette simply for weight.We know it costs some power but only way we can get close to minimum weight. It is a Dart block that we havem well over $6K in its hipped with a cam core Dart would not put in it(60MM) so it went to Westin for that. It will likely get a clamshell next year we are hoping. BUt this is way off topic for a bracket deal...

We were going back & forth between cast iron & aluminum. The B-Car is built like a tank & we decided 80 - 90 lbs less was a good thing. We are still debating the HIP deal, Brodix stated we could go either way. Our B-Car stuff is way off bracket racing, but only a few care about the rules & I don't give 2 Shyts like most.

2BKING

On the S10 build I had three basic goals.

1. Driver comfort- I went with electric windows (about 5 lbs extra) for those hot summer days in staging and it makes the return road much more comfy. OEM glass for easier cleaning and no glare at night.

2. Print tickets- Actually this was #1 but until it was worked out, you never know. That goal has been accomplished. Don't care what it weighs, if it won't lay down the same ET all day, it won't win much.

3. Cost to build and maintain- standard bolts, all steel body, simply no problems with doors shutting, windows fitting, needing help with a hood, etc. 15-20 rounds a day are no issue and so far with 350+ runs its been a great little truck we built.

In the end, lightweight parts cost money, up to you to decide if that money could go towards making the car better or if you just want faster, lighten it up. It's all about choices and goals.

Good luck to all of you next season,

Jok

Jok I agree. I built my Firebird to be reliable regardless of weight. Low maintenance and consistent. At 3450 pounds it proved its purpose this year, on pump gas!

My new car I am getting close to finishing up weight has not been a HUGE concern, unfortunately it's going to be heavy for S/ST with full exhast and power windows etc but thats ok. It being a truck doesn't help either. My goal is to have a competitive winning combo I can drive to the track and to lunch with a passenger if I want to and still go over 150 in S/ST. I think we will be able to accomplish both goals.

My Nova is all steel and glass. BBC with driver # 3800 lbs. I like steel bumpers for more safety. Run factory BBC block and heads.full interior. I like factory Iron.

that answer depends on the type of car i'm building.

My 28 10.5 heads up car is getting the bare necessities in terms of "amenities". I'm making all the efforts I can to cut weight where I can, as others have said weight is like free HP. And for this type of racing I'm willing to sacrifice those comforts in exchange for a potential edge over the competition.

Now a bracket car, being fast as possible obviously isn't as much of a concern. I'll trade a few hundredths or tenths for some comforts like on board air.

Well, as my dumb a$$ is hooked on Super Street, I have to weigh 2800 lb. Thus, I pay attention, somewhat. Currently I'm at 2810. I had to add some weight last year because I lost 30 eating at home during Covid. I'm hoping the new wheels I bought aren't much lighter.

Anyway, in the end we're bracket racers. No more, no less. Our race strategy comes in a shoe polish bottle. It was pointed out to me a few weeks ago that because I don't race Big Buck races, I'm not much of a racer anyway. Foxtrot Mike

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Originally posted by 434 olds:

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:

quote:

Originally posted by TheBlueTruck:

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Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
I do. Aluminum nuts and bolts in areas that aren’t stressed. It’s cheap horsepower and the lighter it is the easier on everything.

My roadster with me race ready.

Braggart! Or just a little more smart than me.

I have no minimum weight though. Your truck is pretty though so we’re even.

That`s pretty heavy for a roadster. I know 2 people that have a late model Olds Cutlass that weighs 1950LBS without driver and a 2002 Camaro also 1910LBS without driver. Both with BBC`s.

my dads corvette roadster weighs 2020 with him in it race ready. Dart iron block. Him at 190 pounds.

My dragster weighs 1590 without driver, with beadlocks, wing and no wheelie bar. 4-link 235" car. Pro filer 12 degree head, dart iron block

My dragste

Love this thread. Some of us, dumb, elite, and wannabe medium dragsters like to make fast bracket cars. I get beat by the "built not bought" crowd all the time, and have no desire to go slow. To each their own, and thank you for the tips on weight.

How about ceramic wheel bearings in front wheels and on rear axles?

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Originally posted by 329L:

How about ceramic wheel bearings in front wheels and on rear axles?

i use them in the fronts and my floater hubs in the rear... not in the center section tho

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Originally posted by seabass:


i use them in the fronts and my floater hubs in the rear... not in the center section tho

I have them in the front, about to put on axles, but was told not to use them in the center section . I do have a low drag center section.