I don't remember the company, but on their web site they had titanium 4 link bars. I got to believe those would save a considerable amount of weight, including lighten your wallet by a bunch.

quote:

Originally posted by 434 olds:

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:

quote:

Originally posted by TheBlueTruck:

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
I do. Aluminum nuts and bolts in areas that aren’t stressed. It’s cheap horsepower and the lighter it is the easier on everything.

My roadster with me race ready.

Braggart! Or just a little more smart than me.

I have no minimum weight though. Your truck is pretty though so we’re even.

That`s pretty heavy for a roadster. I know 2 people that have a late model Olds Cutlass that weighs 1950LBS without driver and a 2002 Camaro also 1910LBS without driver. Both with BBC`s.

Yeah, it's a mild steel car and it's old like me. LOL Still light by most footbrake car standards.

quote:

Originally posted by Thurston:
I don't remember the company, but on their web site they had titanium 4 link bars. I got to believe those would save a considerable amount of weight, including lighten your wallet by a bunch.

It looks like I could make a 1 3/8" set for a little over $2000 my cost. Just doing a quick search for materials. Not sure what they wanted for them.

They did not have any pricing on their web site. If I can remember the company name, I'll post it here.

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:

quote:

Originally posted by Thurston:
I don't remember the company, but on their web site they had titanium 4 link bars. I got to believe those would save a considerable amount of weight, including lighten your wallet by a bunch.

It looks like I could make a 1 3/8" set for a little over $2000 my cost. Just doing a quick search for materials. Not sure what they wanted for them.

2,000 dollars and how much weight would it actually save? Would it even equal a hundredth or two on track?

We bracket race….

Tim Mcamis titanium drive shaft loop is 300 dollars more than chromoly tubing to save 3 pounds. 100 dollars per pound saved

quote:

Originally posted by racerdude2054:

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:

quote:

Originally posted by Thurston:
I don't remember the company, but on their web site they had titanium 4 link bars. I got to believe those would save a considerable amount of weight, including lighten your wallet by a bunch.

It looks like I could make a 1 3/8" set for a little over $2000 my cost. Just doing a quick search for materials. Not sure what they wanted for them.

2,000 dollars and how much weight would it actually save? Would it even equal a hundredth or two on track?

We bracket race….

Didn't say I would, just that I could and looked into how much it would cost for me to do it. LOL The set I made for my car are moly.

If you are looking to save weight get hold of Neil And Parks, Frank and Scot have it if it sheds weight. I thought I had dieas on subject till talking with and checking out their catalog.

When you build a 225" Fed with iron sbc,189 lb driver and race ready that weighs in at 1350 or 1380 lbs. forget exact numb er. You did not kiss much in weight shaving.

quote:

Originally posted by racerdude2054:
2,000 dollars and how much weight would it actually save? Would it even equal a hundredth or two on track?

We bracket race….

EXACTLY!

quote:

Originally posted by DragRaceResults:
Do you even consider weight on your car?

depends on which group of bracket racers you ask, The broke dyck door car crowd ain't buying lite weight parts, titanium bolts nor carbon fiber. Instead they will use a hole saw, sawzall and hammer to cut up their shyt box and replace sheet metal with tin and/or cheap chinese fiberglass parts.

The top bulb, top dragster, go fast medium dragster crowd for whom money is not a concern, will spend whatever they have to to achieve their goal in weight and performance.

That said, my next dragster will have a full carbon package, dash, panels, trays, etc. which I'm told is worth 30 lbs. at best over all aluminum. It will not be devoid of chrome, paint or a data logger nor convenience options like an on board compressor and trans pump that make it a bracket car that can be double entered without concern.

I took 97#'s out of my cobalt without even really trying. Since I have no plans on fast turn arounds anymore with that car I'm switching it over to a tiny radiator, no trans cooler, and probably gas. I'm putting together a heads up program to race my Cobalt in mostly, but will still hit the local Q8/16 stuff. I'm going to be required to add about 250-300#'s to ,make min weight, but that should be fairly simple.

my new chevy2 will hopefully hit the scales 2050/2100ish no titanium, 6.0 cert. 5" bore space mtr, pg w/ steel dshaft, racepak, dual chutes w/ air launchers , fab 9"and beadlocks.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 67TSCHEVY2,

Some of y’all got some lightweight cars. I’ll be happy if my back half super stock mimic 77 camaro can make it under 3000 lbs with my 200 lbs butt in the seat.

My new ride ready to run except helmet and firesuit.

is there really any substantial performance advantage to losing 30 or 40 pounds compared to the cost of losing the weight and also is spending the extra money recouped on a resale?

ep-i think not. i would spend the extra $ on an engine that will move the 30 or 40 pounds. probably get more of that money back on resale.

pauley...KNOWS!

quote:

Originally posted by pauley:
is there really any substantial performance advantage to losing 30 or 40 pounds compared to the cost of losing the weight and also is spending the extra money recouped on a resale?

ep-i think not. i would spend the extra $ on an engine that will move the 30 or 40 pounds. probably get more of that money back on resale.

All depends on what it cost you to lose that weight, right? The reason I say that is if you had to buy titanium parts it would cost you more than if you can make them.

Sometimes I make or do stuff like that just because I can, not because it makes sense to do it.

I always followed the Pete Robinson school of race car building.

Take each part off the car, hold it at arms length and release your fingers. If it falls to the ground it weighed too much.

I consider the weight, and placement of everything in my race car.

Bob

What I've found is light weight bracket cars are the best when they have a good aero package. Square, lightweight bodies get affected by wind much more than heavier cars. I don't feel I spend much money trying to be light. All my cars are composite bodies with the quickest cert's available. Nothing else real special. Now my search for efficiency will start with me always trying to make the best pass I can in that car.

Light cars are great because I can push any of my cars by myself unless I have to turn sharp. My stuff is fairly light going down the road, and parts last a long time. I raced 1.76's and stock case for many years going 5.50's and never did break them.

quote:

Originally posted by pauley:
is there really any substantial performance advantage to losing 30 or 40 pounds compared to the cost of losing the weight and also is spending the extra money recouped on a resale?

ep-i think not. i would spend the extra $ on an engine that will move the 30 or 40 pounds. probably get more of that money back on resale.

That's a double edge sword! Heavier car & more power can add up to more parts replacement over time. 30 to 40 HP gain on a motor that's close to a street motor is relatively cheap but not on a higher end bracket motor!

One thing for sure, less weight strains the parts less so they will last longer!

quote:

Originally posted by pauley:
is there really any substantial performance advantage to losing 30 or 40 pounds compared to the cost of losing the weight and also is spending the extra money recouped on a resale?

ep-i think not. i would spend the extra $ on an engine that will move the 30 or 40 pounds. probably get more of that money back on resale.

For bracket racing, no. If your running a class car such as Comp Eliminator, yes. In that class, every pound counts.