every FSS car has ceramic bearings in the center section and you can bet dam near every national record holding stock, super stock and comp car does too.

Try skipping "wing night" every so often.

quote:

Originally posted by 329L:

quote:

Originally posted by seabass:


i use them in the fronts and my floater hubs in the rear... not in the center section tho

I have them in the front, about to put on axles, but was told not to use them in the center section . I do have a low drag center section.

My car rolls like an army tank, mostly due to the very tight axle bearings MW uses and some brake drag. Car is faster than it needs to be so no worries in that area but it can be a PITA to push around by hand. I have watched JR push his around by himself, night and day compared to mine

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:

quote:

Originally posted by 329L:

quote:

Originally posted by seabass:


i use them in the fronts and my floater hubs in the rear... not in the center section tho

I have them in the front, about to put on axles, but was told not to use them in the center section . I do have a low drag center section.

My car rolls like an army tank, mostly due to the very tight axle bearings MW uses and some brake drag. Car is faster than it needs to be so no worries in that area but it can be a PITA to push around by hand. I have watched JR push his around by himself, night and day compared to mine

I am suprised Mark Williams makes anything that isnt 0 resistance

Well, what did the cars end up weighing?

quote:

Originally posted by 329L:

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:

quote:

Originally posted by 329L:

quote:

Originally posted by seabass:


i use them in the fronts and my floater hubs in the rear... not in the center section tho

I have them in the front, about to put on axles, but was told not to use them in the center section . I do have a low drag center section.

My car rolls like an army tank, mostly due to the very tight axle bearings MW uses and some brake drag. Car is faster than it needs to be so no worries in that area but it can be a PITA to push around by hand. I have watched JR push his around by himself, night and day compared to mine

I am suprised Mark Williams makes anything that isnt 0 resistance

MW center sections are also set up tight

We use ceramics all over the heads up Vette. On the center section we have had some issues with life span. But we run an oddball these days 12 bolt drop out set up(lighter). Scott Parks has made a custom spacer for the pinion bearings that seems to have helped. We have at least gotten some more like out of them now. For those looking for good low/no drag alternative you can go Micro Blue bearings.

Total weight is of minimal concern, placement of weight is more important to me.
There might be some small weights on board to add or remove to help with dial in decisions.

my 67 deuce weighs in at 2100 w/o driver with no fancy liteweight stuff. heck i see piperacks weigh that much lol

I’d rather have a heavy car and a light wife, than the other way around!

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:

quote:

Originally posted by 329L:

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:

quote:

Originally posted by 329L:

quote:

Originally posted by seabass:


i use them in the fronts and my floater hubs in the rear... not in the center section tho

I have them in the front, about to put on axles, but was told not to use them in the center section . I do have a low drag center section.

My car rolls like an army tank, mostly due to the very tight axle bearings MW uses and some brake drag. Car is faster than it needs to be so no worries in that area but it can be a PITA to push around by hand. I have watched JR push his around by himself, night and day compared to mine

I am suprised Mark Williams makes anything that isnt 0 resistance

MW center sections are also set up tight

yep I sent mine to a different place when they needed freshening and such, mostly to free them up so they would roll

I use a shop in Indy, and he uses MW parts, and you can turn the yoke with a tooth pick and not bend it, when you get it back from them. I just assumed it was more of the parts...

quote:

Originally posted by 329L:
I use a shop in Indy, and he uses MW parts, and you can turn the yoke with a tooth pick and not bend it, when you get it back from them. I just assumed it was more of the parts...

indy gear? thats who i use

quote:

Originally posted by Yellow Ticket:
I’d rather have a heavy car and a light wife, than the other way around!

Why not both?

quote:

Originally posted by wideopen231:

quote:

Originally posted by Yellow Ticket:
I’d rather have a heavy car and a light wife, than the other way around!

Why not both?

Both is best, but you spend more time looking at your wife than your car!

Seems everyone feels that cutting weight has to be at high price tag. Right and wrong. There are lots of small thing you can do and they add up. No you will never see 5lbs. on et slip, but 10 or 12 5 lbs will show. Yes 5 lb is big weight savings also just example number.

I am on the extreme side of will do to cut weight and especially i it is just time and labor. I the brake caliper I bought for car. Used but at 25 cents on a dollar are examples. After measuring and studying on them. I went to mill and with cpl hours of work I had just under two pounds off. Now they are older and not near as light as newer stuff.
When possible I will make one bolt fasten two pieces instead of two bolts. If I feel piece will not have to be removed CPL small welds weigh lot less than bolts and nuts.

Do not forget drag.A little goes long ways. Now if you don't really care about getting everything you can out of car performance wise then it is all useless. As stated in the thread less resistance weight and drag will have to make for consistency.

Years back I got rid of 7# in fastener weight.
Use the actual needed length bolt and 1/2 nuts wherever you can, AN washers or no washers, Aluminium bolts in non critical areas.

quote:

Originally posted by seabass:

quote:

Originally posted by 329L:
I use a shop in Indy, and he uses MW parts, and you can turn the yoke with a tooth pick and not bend it, when you get it back from them. I just assumed it was more of the parts...

indy gear? thats who i use

Yessir! Wayne is great to deal with, just with the work he did to my 3rd member, i picked up .03, and i can push my car through the lanes by myself and not be out of breath. Another funny thing is, i got to play with a couple of the NEW promod 3rd member that is made by carmak and lazurus, and Wayne had set it up the EXACT same as my 3rd memeber, and said on its first pass, it was expected to go into the 5.60s

If you're class racing, your hood scoop plug needs to weigh about 45 pounds.

goob- ifykyk

quote:

Originally posted by 329L:

quote:

Originally posted by seabass:

quote:

Originally posted by 329L:
I use a shop in Indy, and he uses MW parts, and you can turn the yoke with a tooth pick and not bend it, when you get it back from them. I just assumed it was more of the parts...

indy gear? thats who i use

Yessir! Wayne is great to deal with, just with the work he did to my 3rd member, i picked up .03, and i can push my car through the lanes by myself and not be out of breath. Another funny thing is, i got to play with a couple of the NEW promod 3rd member that is made by carmak and lazurus, and Wayne had set it up the EXACT same as my 3rd memeber, and said on its first pass, it was expected to go into the 5.60s

He does good work for sure.. Getting my car to roll better was why I ended up there... Greg Stanfield turned me on to him...