quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
I did a lot more than just “assembling” Ed’s Chevelle engines.

You absolutely did! Thanks again and yes there was a time it was raced 3 days a week. That’s how you get to 5000 of those 7000 passes I’ve made in over 30 years.

Lunati 108 lobe separation angle Bootlegger solid roller camshaft ready to shake the dyno, 10:1 compression ratio 489 Big Block Chevrolet.

RIPPER WRENCH 750 hp pump gas muscle car Big Block Chevrolet.

These JEGS stud girdles are fine, I kinda like em actually.

Hot ticket for installing them is put only the intake & exhaust locks on one cylinder on each bank. Slide the girdle down on the locks, then install the rest of the locks through top of the girdle.

I was using Brodix girdles, I may use these from here on out, they're fine.

$150 less

This thing is 100% dyno ready.

Best 6 quart hot rod oil price on Amazon.

Been wanting to try Driven oil anyway. It'll shake the dyno in the next couple days.

This has been my history using that brand of oil. Oil leaks, I first used it on our N/A motor. It had no oil leaks before using it & I drained it out with no oil leaks after. Then my engine builder used their break-in oil in our ProCharged fresh build, it leaked oil from the front crank seal. I changed the oil & leak disappeared. I will not use it again.

2BKING

quote:

Originally posted by B KING:
This has been my history using that brand of oil. Oil leaks, I first used it on our N/A motor. It had no oil leaks before using it & I drained it out with no oil leaks after. Then my engine builder used their break-in oil in our ProCharged fresh build, it leaked oil from the front crank seal. I changed the oil & leak disappeared. I will not use it again.

2BKING

When the crank bore is align honed, the trick is to drill out the dowel pin holes on the cover.

Leave the cover fasteners loose until after installing the balancer. The cover seal will fall correctly tightened down after the balancer is installed.

On these JESEL belts you should also put a dab of silicone on the crank keyway before installing the pulley/balancer on the crankshaft.

This won't leak, no concern there.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

I wonder how the locating pins know what oil you're using?

quote:

Originally posted by imakehp:
I wonder how the locating pins know what oil you're using?

They don't differentiate. It's strictly a matter of alignment.

My guess is the leak will be intermittent.

I have heard of synthetic oils causing leaks on 100,000 mile engines, when introduced.

Used Driven oil for quite a while and no oil leaks. The heads up car we run 0 weight oil. Which is an issue with Driven now that it has sold. They are telling us mayne have some in April, but we have had some on order since May.

quote:

Originally posted by Al Alguire:
Used Driven oil for quite a while and no oil leaks. The heads up car we run 0 weight oil. Which is an issue with Driven now that it has sold. They are telling us mayne have some in April, but we have had some on order since May.

I'm looking forward to using this oil.

I ordered another cam for this engine as well. Another UDHarold design Lunati.

A guy wants this engine for his 69 chevelle, he's not quite experienced enough to run a solid roller on the street yet.

I'll put this in it with solid lifters, a Rollmaster chain and Cloyes cover, if he pulls the trigger after the dyno with this solid roller camshaft.

Lunati had this on the shelf remarkably. I'll figure out the power brakes later.

You can tell a lot about the quality of any product by how it's packed for delivery.

How serious its maker is about you receiving quality.

It's like those 4.250 stroke BBC PEP cranks I got from Nickels, you could tell by how they came, their maker was serious.

I'd like to own 10 more of them cranks right about now.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

The dyno developed an issue so it's being tuned back into shape.

They've run 3 or 4 other engines, working on it. I told the man who owns it I don't want any cheap hp numbers, so he's told me he'll let me know when he thinks it's back in its previous form.

He's real meticulous and experienced, so no worries there at all.

In the meantime I think I'm a hair short on intake duration, so Nickles is sending 1.75 rockers for more area under the curve on the intake.

The cam after lash 716 696 255 263 108 along with tightening the lash .005 on the intake and exhaust.

I think it'll make freak pump gas power if it peters out around 7200 rpm's, but I'll spin it whatever rpm's, it makes power.

I think it'll do alright on hp, if it don't peter out at 6500 rpm's.

We'll soon see.

If it makes power past 7000 rpm's,the number will be a high one. 750 hp plus, 10:1 pump gas compression.

Peak torque around 5200. 7200 peak hp goal.

1.75 ratio intake rockers.

I got a House of Pain starter and 139 tooth, 10 pitch Mezeire flexplate on the way for it.

I'm hoping to keep this unit for a 4 door Nova grocery getter.



Nova something like this, but white.

White with a powerslide transmission and a column shift, triple chrome plated steel bumpers dream come true, 9 second 4 door, n/a pump gas, grocery getter.

Made three quick pulls camshaft straight up 108 intake centerline 710 hp. Camshaft turned 2 ahead 106 intake centerline 706 hp. Camshaft 2 behind - 110 intake center 722 hp. We're gonna dig into it deep Monday. Off to an excellent start 722 hp. Pump gas Boulevard Brawler.

I Luv this Lunati custom roller camshaft!

We spun the engine 7400 rpm, seems good to go!

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

She had another 15 - 20 hp in her. We called it good.

Killer Lunati special grind hot street pump gas compression roller camshaft.

256 264 716 696 108 LSA after lash. 012 lash ramp.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
These JEGS stud girdles are fine, I kinda like em actually.

Hot ticket for installing them is put only the intake & exhaust locks on one cylinder on each bank. Slide the girdle down on the locks, then install the rest of the locks through top of the girdle.

Do you know why you`re installing the girdles the way you are? Because the holes are`nt drilled in the right angle,location. What you are doing is side loading the stud to make it fit. Jegs and Summits no name parts is Chinese junk. You seam to be on a mission to build an engine cheap as possible. The route you`re going is a waste of time and money. Keep me informed on what lets go first in the valve train.

quote:

Originally posted by 434 olds:

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
These JEGS stud girdles are fine, I kinda like em actually.

Hot ticket for installing them is put only the intake & exhaust locks on one cylinder on each bank. Slide the girdle down on the locks, then install the rest of the locks through top of the girdle.

Do you know why you`re installing the girdles the way you are? Because the holes are`nt drilled in the right angle,location. What you are doing is side loading the stud to make it fit. Jegs and Summits no name parts is Chinese junk. You seam to be on a mission to build an engine cheap as possible. The route you`re going is a waste of time and money. Keep me informed on what lets go first in the valve train.

No different than Crane girdles I used 25 years ago.

It's not about cost,it's about availability. As I said there's not damn thing wrong with the JEGS girdle, no different than Crane I used 25 years ago.

Find a 250's 260's duration camshaft 10:1 pump gas compression 489 that makes more power than this one at 7500 rpm's > 744 HP.

Good luck, you won't find one.