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Team Woodfin Camaro, "Lamplighter"
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Alston


Larry Woodfin





 
Posts: 1828 | Location: Kilgore TX | Registered: March 12, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Chris Alston


Larry Woodfin





 
Posts: 1828 | Location: Kilgore TX | Registered: March 12, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I’ve been using one of those for probably 10 years. The only one besides that that I would consider is the Mark Williams one. The one from Chassisworks has been great.

Curtis



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Posts: 2928 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hey Larry, check out this steering wheel connector. Would be even better than the one we are using. Of course it's 3 time the cost.

You don't have to pull anything to put it on. It pops on and is tapered so there isn't any slop when it is on.

https://momo.com/en-us/product...el-quick-disconnect/



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Posts: 2928 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
Hey Larry, check out this steering wheel connector. Would be even better than the one we are using. Of course it's 3 time the cost.

You don't have to pull anything to put it on. It pops on and is tapered so there isn't any slop when it is on.

https://momo.com/en-us/product...el-quick-disconnect/


I saw this yesterday on Tim McAmis YouTube channel.. Have you seen a smaller version anywhere by chance for dragsters? That would be neat to put in my car! Have a Grant and the typical MW splined quick release now..


Nick Craig

1971 Camaro Split Bumper
376ci LS3
 
Posts: 410 | Location: Ohio | Registered: December 28, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by NC3x58:
quote:
Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
Hey Larry, check out this steering wheel connector. Would be even better than the one we are using. Of course it's 3 time the cost.

You don't have to pull anything to put it on. It pops on and is tapered so there isn't any slop when it is on.

https://momo.com/en-us/product...el-quick-disconnect/


I saw this yesterday on Tim McAmis YouTube channel.. Have you seen a smaller version anywhere by chance for dragsters? That would be neat to put in my car! Have a Grant and the typical MW splined quick release now..


I haven't but I'm not sure why it wouldn't work for a dragster? Just get a blank butterfly and have it drilled to match the 6 bolt pattern.

The other one that Larry posted I use and is tighter than a normal splined unit you might check it out.



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Posts: 2928 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I did see the video Tim posted and agree it would be the cat's meow. However, in my mature years, I am considering cost balanced with function. The Alston piece is $100.00 instead of the one Tim shows for $400.00.

Not intending to take away anything from Tim because I think he is very sharp and builds a top-shelf car. Overall, for our sportsman builds, I think the Alston part is the best value.


Larry Woodfin



 
Posts: 1828 | Location: Kilgore TX | Registered: March 12, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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Originally posted by Larry Woodfin:
I did see the video Tim posted and agree it would be the cat's meow. However, in my mature years, I am considering cost balanced with function. The Alston piece is $100.00 instead of the one Tim shows for $400.00.

Not intending to take away anything from Tim because I think he is very sharp and builds a top-shelf car. Overall, for our sportsman builds, I think the Alston part is the best value.


No way I can argue that. LOL



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Posts: 2928 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Changing the subject, stand by for a revolutionary change in ref trans brake button placement. You will have seen it here first.


Larry Woodfin



 
Posts: 1828 | Location: Kilgore TX | Registered: March 12, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Under the heading of "consider this with an open mind"

Next time you are seated in your race car, hold your elbow against your body and reach up to the general area shown in the photo. Hold your elbow stationary against your side and flex/swing your arm away from the switch.

I came up with this idea while brainstorming about where to mount the brake button. I have not raced it but "in the shop" it feels good.


Larry Woodfin





 
Posts: 1828 | Location: Kilgore TX | Registered: March 12, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The Lamplighter [3rd gen Camaro] has a low roof so this mounting may not work on some body styles.


Larry Woodfin



 
Posts: 1828 | Location: Kilgore TX | Registered: March 12, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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You have the right idea about only one muscle group moving your arm. JMO though the best place is when you can hold your arm to your side so your elbow is actually in contact with your body, the weight of your arm is triggering your switch and you pull away with only your bicep.

Take my 2 cents for what it's worth because I'm a lowly foot braker now though. LOL



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Posts: 2928 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Larry Woodfin:
Under the heading of "consider this with an open mind"

Next time you are seated in your race car, hold your elbow against your body and reach up to the general area shown in the photo. Hold your elbow stationary against your side and flex/swing your arm away from the switch.

I came up with this idea while brainstorming about where to mount the brake button. I have not raced it but "in the shop" it feels good.


I have seen this done by a bunch of Bottom bulbers and their long-throw buttons.. A couple of them I have talked to say the same thing that it's very consistent on the let go that way.


Nick Craig

1971 Camaro Split Bumper
376ci LS3
 
Posts: 410 | Location: Ohio | Registered: December 28, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Is that switch panel supposed to have fuses across the bottom row?
 
Posts: 1454 | Location: E TN | Registered: February 13, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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eman, it was fused but I eliminated them and substituted the relay board fuses for protection. The main power feed up to switch panel is fused as are all the component feeds from the relay board.

That Alston panel has been on the "someday" shelf for about 20 years and this was a good opportunity to employ it. Also, the labeling is not correct because I have customized the functions. I will do some type of stick-on updated labels.


Larry Woodfin



 
Posts: 1828 | Location: Kilgore TX | Registered: March 12, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Lamplighter


Larry Woodfin





 
Posts: 1828 | Location: Kilgore TX | Registered: March 12, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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progress


Larry Woodfin





 
Posts: 1828 | Location: Kilgore TX | Registered: March 12, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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dash work


Larry Woodfin





 
Posts: 1828 | Location: Kilgore TX | Registered: March 12, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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It has been a few weeks so here are some catch-up notes.

^The wiring and component mounting is well along, I estimate 80% completed.

^The dash is just an empty, gutted housing as well as the cluster. It's only a few pounds more than a generic aluminum dash and I like the "factory" look. It adds some detail to the interior.

^The wheel tubs are on the short "to do" list as well as other sheet metal details.

^You will notice the lightweight column and wheel disconnect are completed.

More soon.


Larry Woodfin



 
Posts: 1828 | Location: Kilgore TX | Registered: March 12, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Good to see updates. Really likeing this build.
 
Posts: 493 | Location: Going to or returning from the chipmine. | Registered: July 01, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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