Alston

Chris Alston

I’ve been using one of those for probably 10 years. The only one besides that that I would consider is the Mark Williams one. The one from Chassisworks has been great.

Curtis

Hey Larry, check out this steering wheel connector. Would be even better than the one we are using. Of course it's 3 time the cost.

You don't have to pull anything to put it on. It pops on and is tapered so there isn't any slop when it is on.

https://momo.com/en-us/product...el-quick-disconnect/

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
Hey Larry, check out this steering wheel connector. Would be even better than the one we are using. Of course it's 3 time the cost.

You don't have to pull anything to put it on. It pops on and is tapered so there isn't any slop when it is on.

https://momo.com/en-us/product...el-quick-disconnect/

I saw this yesterday on Tim McAmis YouTube channel.. Have you seen a smaller version anywhere by chance for dragsters? That would be neat to put in my car! Have a Grant and the typical MW splined quick release now..

quote:

Originally posted by NC3x58:

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
Hey Larry, check out this steering wheel connector. Would be even better than the one we are using. Of course it's 3 time the cost.

You don't have to pull anything to put it on. It pops on and is tapered so there isn't any slop when it is on.

https://momo.com/en-us/product...el-quick-disconnect/

I saw this yesterday on Tim McAmis YouTube channel.. Have you seen a smaller version anywhere by chance for dragsters? That would be neat to put in my car! Have a Grant and the typical MW splined quick release now..

I haven't but I'm not sure why it wouldn't work for a dragster? Just get a blank butterfly and have it drilled to match the 6 bolt pattern.

The other one that Larry posted I use and is tighter than a normal splined unit you might check it out.

I did see the video Tim posted and agree it would be the cat's meow. However, in my mature years, I am considering cost balanced with function. The Alston piece is $100.00 instead of the one Tim shows for $400.00.

Not intending to take away anything from Tim because I think he is very sharp and builds a top-shelf car. Overall, for our sportsman builds, I think the Alston part is the best value.

quote:

Originally posted by Larry Woodfin:
I did see the video Tim posted and agree it would be the cat's meow. However, in my mature years, I am considering cost balanced with function. The Alston piece is $100.00 instead of the one Tim shows for $400.00.

Not intending to take away anything from Tim because I think he is very sharp and builds a top-shelf car. Overall, for our sportsman builds, I think the Alston part is the best value.

No way I can argue that. LOL

Changing the subject, stand by for a revolutionary change in ref trans brake button placement. You will have seen it here first.

Under the heading of "consider this with an open mind"

Next time you are seated in your race car, hold your elbow against your body and reach up to the general area shown in the photo. Hold your elbow stationary against your side and flex/swing your arm away from the switch.

I came up with this idea while brainstorming about where to mount the brake button. I have not raced it but "in the shop" it feels good.

The Lamplighter [3rd gen Camaro] has a low roof so this mounting may not work on some body styles.

You have the right idea about only one muscle group moving your arm. JMO though the best place is when you can hold your arm to your side so your elbow is actually in contact with your body, the weight of your arm is triggering your switch and you pull away with only your bicep.

Take my 2 cents for what it's worth because I'm a lowly foot braker now though. LOL

quote:

Originally posted by Larry Woodfin:
Under the heading of "consider this with an open mind"

Next time you are seated in your race car, hold your elbow against your body and reach up to the general area shown in the photo. Hold your elbow stationary against your side and flex/swing your arm away from the switch.

I came up with this idea while brainstorming about where to mount the brake button. I have not raced it but "in the shop" it feels good.

I have seen this done by a bunch of Bottom bulbers and their long-throw buttons.. A couple of them I have talked to say the same thing that it's very consistent on the let go that way.

Is that switch panel supposed to have fuses across the bottom row?

eman, it was fused but I eliminated them and substituted the relay board fuses for protection. The main power feed up to switch panel is fused as are all the component feeds from the relay board.

That Alston panel has been on the "someday" shelf for about 20 years and this was a good opportunity to employ it. Also, the labeling is not correct because I have customized the functions. I will do some type of stick-on updated labels.

Lamplighter

progress

dash work

It has been a few weeks so here are some catch-up notes.

^The wiring and component mounting is well along, I estimate 80% completed.

^The dash is just an empty, gutted housing as well as the cluster. It's only a few pounds more than a generic aluminum dash and I like the "factory" look. It adds some detail to the interior.

^The wheel tubs are on the short "to do" list as well as other sheet metal details.

^You will notice the lightweight column and wheel disconnect are completed.

More soon.

Good to see updates. Really likeing this build.