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DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
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Did all of that guys. Thanks for reply.I was hoping I was having a brain **** and doing something wrong. Damn be right all the time sucks Even grounded to motor ground with 0 cable to make sure good ground.

Nothing responds. Like always when I break it I break it good. Will try east coast tomorrow and see wht they say. If nothing I guess I will be ordering another in morning.




America home of free. Brought to you by 2nd amendment.
 
Posts: 4472 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
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so 400 bucks on starter And 150 on transbrake.150 expences. So about 750 for aburn out and not even my normal burnout.I am gaining on cost per run of A/Fuel car at 2000 per run, but that isa for 5.2- 270 mph.LOL




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Posts: 4472 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Bruce Williams
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quote:
Originally posted by SCDIV1:
If I have to drive down there to fix it for you it's gonna cost you more than some redneck chit...LOL

Besides my back hurts so bad today I'm not movin for a while

Test the starter by itself without the car hooked up...just battery cables + and - and jump the solenoid.....Don't blame the starter if it's the car causing it.....

Can't fix stuff when you don't know what's wrong....diagnosis is what I do better than most....anybody can turn a bolt and change a part.... being a replacer is not my game.... being a replacer is not my game....


Where is the like button!!


Bruce Lee Cool

Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want.
 
Posts: 2057 | Location: Chandler Arizona | Registered: August 11, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of CURTIS REED
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Bruce Williams:
quote:
Originally posted by SCDIV1:
If I have to drive down there to fix it for you it's gonna cost you more than some redneck chit...LOL

Besides my back hurts so bad today I'm not movin for a while

Test the starter by itself without the car hooked up...just battery cables + and - and jump the solenoid.....Don't blame the starter if it's the car causing it.....

Can't fix stuff when you don't know what's wrong....diagnosis is what I do better than most....anybody can turn a bolt and change a part.... being a replacer is not my game.... being a replacer is not my game....


Where is the like button!!





____________________________
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Posts: 3117 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
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could you enlarge that [picture not wearing readers right now.




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Posts: 4472 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
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quote:
Originally posted by wideopen231:

Nothing responds.

If you get NOTHING, no click, no spin, no nothing, then your 12v power source used to jump the starter is DEAD or the starter is not grounded.
 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
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16v at the starter topd where the clamp is. Starter grounded thru 0 cable clamped to starter block and to block at same place as the ground wire from battery. Believe me I tried connecting in hundred ways trying to make at least motor spin.

Hell I wish you right. Dropped this starter at a local shop although I do not really care for them. When one choice you bite the bullet. Working on getting another in time for the next chance to run.
Damn I miss it when tracks had bracket deals every weekend.You could pick from three or run all same weekend then. Now you might have chance to hit one or two a month

Really think all of the cranking and cranking due to primer pump flooding(all on me) and the mag getting moved(again on me). Once I reset mag by eye it fired right up. Then had FU with primer pump flooding motor, I mean hydrauliced and would not turn till plugs out and then belching alky by cups or so it seemed. In all honesty, I am glad it did not fire off. Had simlar 30 years ago and we made 7/16 rod look like twisted pretzel. Breaking rod would be very expensive compared to a starter.




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Posts: 4472 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Elite
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The starter mounting block is aluminum, N/G. All you had to do was power the solenoid stud and then touch the ground cable to the back of the starter which is a steel cap or one of the bolts.
 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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quote:
Originally posted by 1320racer:
The starter mounting block is aluminum, N/G. All you had to do was power the solenoid stud and then touch the ground cable to the back of the starter which is a steel cap or one of the bolts.



Lol nonsense, aluminum is a V/G conductor (better than steel) guess you were out that day of school. Grounding it through the aluminum starter block is fine.

Power Tool
 
Posts: 741 | Location: Upstate NY | Registered: July 02, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
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Funny it is the same block that is only part bolted to the engine when the starter is installed. The block is bolted to an aluminum mid plate Not to mention the battery ground is fastened to a big block of aluminum.




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Posts: 4472 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
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Oh yea that block the battery is grounded to is same one holding all the engine stuff inside of it.




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Posts: 4472 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
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quote:
Originally posted by 183N:
Grounding it through the aluminum starter block is fine.


Talk about what you know, not what you think you know jerkoff. The builder of the OPs starter and mine told me to do exactly as I have stated.
 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by 183N:
quote:
Originally posted by 1320racer:
The starter mounting block is aluminum, N/G. All you had to do was power the solenoid stud and then touch the ground cable to the back of the starter which is a steel cap or one of the bolts.

I knew that slow typing thing would get me. You tree'd me on that one.

Lol nonsense, aluminum is a V/G conductor (better than steel) guess you were out that day of school. Grounding it through the aluminum starter block is fine.

Power Tool




America home of free. Brought to you by 2nd amendment.
 
Posts: 4472 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of SCDIV1
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Who knew a starter could be this complicated !

You must have NUKED that starter if it does nothing....

Throw it in the gaaabage
 
Posts: 2734 | Location: Where ever I am, I'm here and it's me | Registered: March 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Elite
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EXACTLY, it’s not and correct, if this brand new starter does nothing, HE fried it!!!

The OP can and has broken an anvil! I don’t know what he is but he is not a bracket racer nor he’s he built a bracket car.
 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by SCDIV1:
Who knew a starter could be this complicated !

You must have NUKED that starter if it does nothing....

Throw it in the gaaabage


Exactly. It clicks some but nothing spins or engages. Heck the clicks are barely.

Like I said when it comes to breaking stuff I do it right. I think it trying to spin the motor with cylinder full of fuel and deadlocked.

I will be dropping pan tonight to see if any bearing got flattened from the hydraulic attempt. Might be waste but cheap and just requires little work.

I am in no way saying it is the fault of Mark's product.




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Posts: 4472 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by 1320racer:
quote:
Originally posted by 183N:
Grounding it through the aluminum starter block is fine.


Talk about what you know, not what you think you know jerkoff. The builder of the OPs starter and mine told me to do exactly as I have stated.


Lol you continue to show us how you don’t know shyt. “A professional builder told me this” because you can’t think for yourself. How do you think the starter is grounded when it’s bolted to the engine block?
 
Posts: 741 | Location: Upstate NY | Registered: July 02, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
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Jerkoff, Mark Payne is not only a professional at what he does, he’s a friend and competitor and when he talks about starters and alternators I listen, he’s never steered me wrong and his products are on both my cars and have been a part of our winning combination, having won numerous races, a lot of $, many Wally’s and championships that you can only dream of as you sit and bang away on your keyboard, hoping once again that this is the year after over a decade trying, that you get past 2nd round at your home shythole this weekend when they host the NHRA LODRS Divisional. Laughing very hard Spitting
 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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Big Grin Big Grin Big Grin

Keep squealing Pigley. Meanwhile, everyone with a brain knows that aluminum conducts better than steel or cast iron.

Power Tool
 
Posts: 741 | Location: Upstate NY | Registered: July 02, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
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As usual jerkoff, your drivel is as comical as you’re driving in S/C and feeble at best.

That said, I can and have rebuilt my starter and tested it and others exactly as stated and confirmed by the professional and my friend. NahNahTounge
 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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