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Originally posted by fuzzy dice:

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Originally posted by ski_dwn_it:

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Originally posted by xtended_s10:
I like emans idea but i was thinking a led light or test light attached to the solenoid that can be seen with the gopro and also showing the transbrake solenoid. Would be nice to figure out if its electrical or mechanical. Can you duplicate it in the pits if you activate brake several times?

I agree and I would also hook up a volt meter in view of the camera and see the voltage/drop is consistent run to run.

Are you running an alternator? If its not carb related - then I would say its electrical. Try a new battery. If your not running an alternator - get one.

I am racing this weekend so I have to footbrake it....sigh...I am going to test the voltage in the pits when I let go of the button to make sure it drops instantly...other than that I will have to get back on it next week...

I do run an single wire alternator...new in the last 60 days...Powermaster 125 as I recall...my battery died in the staging lanes two weeks ago so I replaced it with a new gold top ...I remember you from the old corvette forum days Ski...I hope all is well with you and your family...

All great on this end! Good luck remember it's always usually something simple and never just one thing.

Well if you are chasing a ghost maybe you should call Ghost Busters!!!

Had the exact same problem in my car. Lasted about a season. Finally car wouldn't start at all. Changed MSD never had problem again.

Just to throw out another "crazy" scenario that I came across this year. Helped buddy put in new 615 in mint Nova. The car at first worked perfect and eventually developed a hard start situation. The car would crank forever and sometimes fire up and run fine - and sometimes was a bear and wouldn't start at all. Started investigating and car would not spark during cranking of motor consistently.

Changed wiring, ignition switches, starter after it broke it on backfire, 3 - yes three MSD grids after MSD had no idea of what was going on and wouldn't rule out a bad grid. Tried totally different ignition and it seemed better but would still act up. wired the car up outside of the normal wiring. Put a new battery in it, put two batteries in it. Changed the master shutoff. This went on for several weeks and months. If I pulled the distributor and spun it by hand it would spark perfectly. Put it back in and it wouldn't fire consistently.

Changed every bit of wiring to vital components in the ignition and ran bigger new cables to the car, fixed all grounds, pickup in Dist and even the billet MSD distributor (which was months old). Still the same thing. I finally was about to tell him I'm out of ideas and upon pulling the distributor one last time I noticed a wire that went up around the bellhousing in a fire resisent harness cover. Similar to many cars I have seen but this one was not right down on the bell housing but rather up by the china wall on the rear of the manifold. I asked what it was and the guy said that is the main power to the starter. I said well I am moving it as I kept saying thru the process it only happens when we were energizing the starter circuit. He said it wasn't going to be the problem and he was done with the car. I grabbed the wire, broke the clips holding it in place and moved it down away from the distributor. The car worked perfectly! Here that cable must have been giving off just enough interference when energized to disrupt the distributor's pickup. We reattached it down further and it has worked since.

With that said - DO not rule out interference from something. You might want to rerun the wiring away from any heavy power lines if they are nearby. I doubt that is your problem, but never know.

This simple problem cost me many sleepless nights - and my buddy several thousand dollar in parts exchange. Sounds simple reading the above but when you really dont know the answer it is much tougher.