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DRR Top Comp
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If it's a carb stumble, that would mean the TB would release at varying rpms's. This would make the car inconsistent, wouldn't it? If I'm understanding this right the car is consistent, Yes?

If the car is consistent however the RT's are inconsistent, wouldn't that be an intermittent transmission problem?

Have you taken the transmission apart, maybe the reverse piston springs are laid over. I've seen that happen.

How does the ATF look? Have you checked the pressures? Did you try polishing the brake valve as we discussed last time this problem was discussed here/ check it for bind?
 
Posts: 9398 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of Eman
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Do you have a go-pro or any camera? Possibly wire an LED or some other type of bulb to light when the TB is activated. If you could aim the camera to capture the button the LED and the tach it might help you diagnose the problem. Obviously when you let go the LED should go out and the RPM's should go up.
You say it's been rewired and you run an alternator. Where are you measuring your voltage? If possible monitor your MSD box input voltage.
Did you try another TB solenoid? Is it a 1 wire or 2 wire solenoid? I run my ground wire from the solenoid all the way back to battery ground at my circuit board in the car. Trans pan bolts and sheet metal screw grounds aren't the best. Does the TB solenoid have the part on the back that you can manually move? Is it free? Pull the solenoid and check to see if it has any bind. Then pull the valve and see if it's straight, roll it on a flat piece of steel. Put it back in and make sure it's free in the bore. Might be a good time to install the spare TB solenoid.
Does it only do it hot?
 
Posts: 1585 | Location: E TN | Registered: February 13, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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Do you run a starting line enhancer when on the transbrake?
 
Posts: 479 | Location: here | Registered: February 12, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of SCDIV1
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Many years ago when I first tried using a trans brake I had a TCI valve body that hesitated a good .05 or more.

I knew it was not me and could literally feel the hesitation.

I had a trans done by a new company and gave him everything I had including that valve body.

I told him specifically not to use it but he did anyway.

One of the many transmission stories I have and why I do my own if I can.

Energize your trans brake without the engine running. Release the trans brake button as you look at solinoid in trans. Should be immediate release without any delay. If you use a delay box, zero it out to test.

If solinoid releases immediately, it’s not electrical.

Time wise, .15 to .18 is a very large amount of hesitation and if it was the solinoid you would easily see it.
 
Posts: 2735 | Location: Where ever I am, I'm here and it's me | Registered: March 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of Curly1
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If it is a transbrake problem then first thing I would do is replace the solenoid with a BRAND NEW one. They get dirty and sticky and they still work but will hang up. Also check the wiring down there. I had the wire move and get pinched by the solenoid when it activated.

I consider the solenoid a wear and tear item and change them out every few years.


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Posts: 4352 | Location: United States of Texas | Registered: April 02, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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I like emans idea but i was thinking a led light or test light attached to the solenoid that can be seen with the gopro and also showing the transbrake solenoid. Would be nice to figure out if its electrical or mechanical. Can you duplicate it in the pits if you activate brake several times?
 
Posts: 73 | Location: Lake Worth Fl. | Registered: December 20, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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I would try another ignition box and two step. I had issues a few years ago and it got so bad motor was jumping between 3000-7000 on the two step. I found plug was loose in my 7AL2. I ended up torching a head at that race and when I got the box back the car was almost 3 tenths faster in the 1/8 mile.
 
Posts: 2595 | Location: at the track | Registered: May 09, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR S/Pro
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I had some really weird lights when this happened.
 
Posts: 2595 | Location: at the track | Registered: May 09, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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When troubleshooting a problem like this, I suggest “avoiding” replacing the same component a second time. After replacing a component, list it on your replaced component sheet and move on.

You listed the TB button, TB solenoid, complete rewiring of the car. The transmission was rebuilt, and FTI I would hope, put it on the dyno to confirm solenoid release operation and time. If so, then all these items are not your problem….. Move on.

You list the ignition as MSD 6al-2 (6421) which is Digital Ignition. Because this is controlling the 2-step function you should call MSD for an opinion and ask if they can check and repair this function if intermittently bad. All MSD products are on sale until the end of the year if you decide to try a replacement.

You write that you are electrically challenged, but if it were me, I’d try wiring a 10 amp rated diode to the TB solenoid to see if it has any effect.

jmho
 
Posts: 2722 | Location: 53056 | Registered: December 30, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of fuzzy dice
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quote:
Originally posted by Wooley:
If it’s trans brake release, how is it wired? What else is tb bottom connected to? Any relays in circut?


Since the re-wiring I am not sure exactly how it is wired but I do know there is no relay involved...
 
Posts: 1280 | Location: Florida (FL) | Registered: June 06, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of fuzzy dice
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
If it's a carb stumble, that would mean the TB would release at varying rpms's. This would make the car inconsistent, wouldn't it? If I'm understanding this right the car is consistent, Yes?

If the car is consistent however the RT's are inconsistent, wouldn't that be an intermittent transmission problem?

Have you taken the transmission apart, maybe the reverse piston springs are laid over. I've seen that happen.

How does the ATF look? Have you checked the pressures? Did you try polishing the brake valve as we discussed last time this problem was discussed here/ check it for bind?


Honestly I leave the tranny stuff to FTI...it is their glide and they went through it completely and pronounced it good to go...the solenoid is theirs as well...the ATF is fresh as of 2 months ago when the tranny was put back in...I checked it at the track yesterday and it looks new and full up...
 
Posts: 1280 | Location: Florida (FL) | Registered: June 06, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of fuzzy dice
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Eman:
Do you have a go-pro or any camera? Possibly wire an LED or some other type of bulb to light when the TB is activated. If you could aim the camera to capture the button the LED and the tach it might help you diagnose the problem. Obviously when you let go the LED should go out and the RPM's should go up.
You say it's been rewired and you run an alternator. Where are you measuring your voltage? If possible monitor your MSD box input voltage.
Did you try another TB solenoid? Is it a 1 wire or 2 wire solenoid? I run my ground wire from the solenoid all the way back to battery ground at my circuit board in the car. Trans pan bolts and sheet metal screw grounds aren't the best. Does the TB solenoid have the part on the back that you can manually move? Is it free? Pull the solenoid and check to see if it has any bind. Then pull the valve and see if it's straight, roll it on a flat piece of steel. Put it back in and make sure it's free in the bore. Might be a good time to install the spare TB solenoid.
Does it only do it hot?


I may be able to borrow a go pro...the solenoid was replaced with new about 6 months ago and then checked by FTI when they went through the tranny...they said it operated flawlessly...we checked it not too long after that and it moved freely with no bind...I never know when it will happen...yesterday it was on pass 2 and 4...two weeks before it was on pass 3...two weeks before that on passes 5 and 7...
 
Posts: 1280 | Location: Florida (FL) | Registered: June 06, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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Just a thought. If you already have a spare button or a different one of some sort. Temporarily wire it to trans solenoid. Nice and simple one side of button to 12volts positive the other directly to the solenoid. This way you can test it to see if issue remains. If it does then problem is in the transmission. If issue is gone it is electrical.
 
Posts: 517 | Location: Going to or returning from the chipmine. | Registered: July 01, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of fuzzy dice
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by team:
Do you run a starting line enhancer when on the transbrake?


I do not...
 
Posts: 1280 | Location: Florida (FL) | Registered: June 06, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Pro
Picture of fuzzy dice
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by SCDIV1:
Many years ago when I first tried using a trans brake I had a TCI valve body that hesitated a good .05 or more.

I knew it was not me and could literally feel the hesitation.

I had a trans done by a new company and gave him everything I had including that valve body.

I told him specifically not to use it but he did anyway.

One of the many transmission stories I have and why I do my own if I can.

Energize your trans brake without the engine running. Release the trans brake button as you look at solinoid in trans. Should be immediate release without any delay. If you use a delay box, zero it out to test.

If solinoid releases immediately, it’s not electrical.

Time wise, .15 to .18 is a very large amount of hesitation and if it was the solinoid you would easily see it.


Thanks, worth a try...yup, the hesitation seems like forever...
 
Posts: 1280 | Location: Florida (FL) | Registered: June 06, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of fuzzy dice
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Curly1:
If it is a transbrake problem then first thing I would do is replace the solenoid with a BRAND NEW one. They get dirty and sticky and they still work but will hang up. Also check the wiring down there. I had the wire move and get pinched by the solenoid when it activated.

I consider the solenoid a wear and tear item and change them out every few years.


We put in a new solenoid and button first thing...no change...then went after the tranny...no change...lastly I had the entire car professionally re-wired...no bueno...
 
Posts: 1280 | Location: Florida (FL) | Registered: June 06, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of fuzzy dice
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by xtended_s10:
I like emans idea but i was thinking a led light or test light attached to the solenoid that can be seen with the gopro and also showing the transbrake solenoid. Would be nice to figure out if its electrical or mechanical. Can you duplicate it in the pits if you activate brake several times?


We have tried it in the shop and pits many, many times and it will not hesitate...only at the track...sigh...
 
Posts: 1280 | Location: Florida (FL) | Registered: June 06, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of fuzzy dice
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by green1:
I had some really weird lights when this happened.


You bet...mine are between 150 and 185 when it hesitates...yesterday I was 18 and then 151 when it hesitated...
 
Posts: 1280 | Location: Florida (FL) | Registered: June 06, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of fuzzy dice
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by markemark:
When troubleshooting a problem like this, I suggest “avoiding” replacing the same component a second time. After replacing a component, list it on your replaced component sheet and move on.

You listed the TB button, TB solenoid, complete rewiring of the car. The transmission was rebuilt, and FTI I would hope, put it on the dyno to confirm solenoid release operation and time. If so, then all these items are not your problem….. Move on.

You list the ignition as MSD 6al-2 (6421) which is Digital Ignition. Because this is controlling the 2-step function you should call MSD for an opinion and ask if they can check and repair this function if intermittently bad. All MSD products are on sale until the end of the year if you decide to try a replacement.

You write that you are electrically challenged, but if it were me, I’d try wiring a 10 amp rated diode to the TB solenoid to see if it has any effect.

jmho


I am thinking like you about the parts replaced...I will be calling MSD in the morning....thanks for the diode tip...
 
Posts: 1280 | Location: Florida (FL) | Registered: June 06, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
posted Hide Post
Double check you're not over filling the transmission by no fault of your own other than not verifying the full mark on the dipstick is marked correctly.

Check in park race hot, running. After marking dipstick.

Make sure you have a Liberal vent on the transmission as well.

https://images.squarespace-cdn...powerglide-trans.jpg
 
Posts: 9398 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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