Bucky they are needed on the face of the bolt head and the nut head depending on what you have.

Ed... they usually come loose after the 7th round

quote:

Originally posted by DragRaceResults:


Ed... they usually come loose after the 7th round

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
that starts you who's been here for 5 minutes not replying to a thread solely to critique my advice and opinions.

Nah, the problem is you. Even the guy who has “been here for 5 minutes” can see it. You pollute every post with your garbage and furthermore you have the largest pictures as your signature that everyone needs to scroll past. The huge pics are just another example of your “look at me” attitude. BG, you nailed it on Ed.

Here are the truth and facts. Ed has been banned from this site (and others) many times in the past and the pattern is always the same. Ed gets worse and worse, gets warned, then turns full on ******* and they ban him for awhile. Last time it was even over a year.

Then, he must cry to the owners and is allowed to come back. When he comes back the pattern starts all over. He starts out being nice and helpful, then after awhile slowly gets worse. We’re at the point where he ramps up his *******-ism and feels the need to do multiple replies to almost every thread. So, if the past pattern continues, he’ll keep getting nastier and nastier and in a few months he’ll be banned again. We’ll see.

More truth and facts. Ed can’t keep an engine together in the Firebird, even though he uses top dollar parts and name brand engine builders. It must be user error for the amount of times the rods come unbolted from the crank.

Take this year for example, broke the engine in June at the first race out. Comes on here telling everyone they’re broke dycks for not having spares, yet Mr. best of everything doesn’t even have a spare engine in his fancy white trailer. Took till October to fix an engine (how’s that for someone with supposedly lots of experience and money? Lame). Now that the Firebird finally runs again, we have to scroll past a huge picture of it with every post. Maybe the rods will stay bolted to the crank for a full year this time?

——————————————————
Truth and facts on broken rod B!gley over.

All four of my converters are bolt through. I’ve been using bolts and standard nylocks, but last time I checked I had one that wasn’t as tight as I left it. I like the idea of the mechanical lock washers.

you to0 are a jealous nobody that ain't done shyt nor got shyt worth talking about. save the hate for when you see me next season at Lebanon!

I use aircraft AN7-* bolts for my converter/flexplate connection. I don't want any threads in that hole. And I don't want a zillion threads beyond the end of the nut. I use an AN washer on each side with heat resistant lock nuts (no nylocs). The reason I didn't call out a bolt length is because it will vary depending on lug thickness and spacer thickness.

quote:

Originally posted by nomad:
I use aircraft AN7-* bolts for my converter/flexplate connection. I don't want any threads in that hole. And I don't want a zillion threads beyond the end of the nut. I use an AN washer on each side with heat resistant lock nuts (no nylocs). The reason I didn't call out a bolt length is because it will vary depending on lug thickness and spacer thickness.

AN bolts. That is a really good idea to eliminate the internal threads. I don't see a reason the aircraft bolt couldn't be used with the ratchet washers I am going to try using both of these ideas while its apart perfect time to replace and upgrade. I love these little details of ideas. Thanks.

Easy enough to get a Grade 8 longer bolt that needed with the right shoulder length and trim the threaded end to suit!!!!!!

Two reasons these bolts come loose, not torqued correctly or you didn't use a good washer on both sides and the flex plate and or converter is soft with a small contact area! Low power combo's aren't that critical but with the larger CID motors out there today that make 4 digit HP, you need to pay attention to the details.

quote:

Originally posted by BG7X77:

quote:

Originally posted by nomad:
I use aircraft AN7-* bolts for my converter/flexplate connection. I don't want any threads in that hole. And I don't want a zillion threads beyond the end of the nut. I use an AN washer on each side with heat resistant lock nuts (no nylocs). The reason I didn't call out a bolt length is because it will vary depending on lug thickness and spacer thickness.

AN bolts. That is a really good idea to eliminate the internal threads. I don't see a reason the aircraft bolt couldn't be used with the ratchet washers I am going to try using both of these ideas while its apart perfect time to replace and upgrade. I love these little details of ideas. Thanks.

I'm lucky enough to live near an airport that has a parts place with a good selection of common AN nuts and bolts. AeroMech in Lakeland, Florida is the place. There must be some place close to you. Use AN washers if you can. They're flat and have a consistent thickness (.062)and only as much diameter as needed. Otherwise, cut a fine thread bolt with enough shank length to leave 3 threads showing past the nut.

I use AN bolts where ever thay may be warranted. I'm pretty sure they're American and of good quality.

quote:

Originally posted by Matrix:
Everything is new. Its an fti converter. Not sure of the flexplate. Id have to look at the build sheet again but thinking that is my issue. I can start the second one but it feels like its gonna cross thread smh. Im so frustrated

Matrix, give me a call at the shop tomorrow or shoot me an email and I'll help get to bottom of what is causing your issue.
-Dalton
dalton@ftiperformance.com
386-736-5816

Will do

30 years i have been around drag racing never once have i had these bolts come loose... This past weekend i guy a race with broke all the convertor bolts. I am figure they where lose then finally broke.

I never use lock washers on a car due to the fact that they tear up both surfaces when removing.

Never used the Nord-lock washers. Do they also bite into both surfaces and tear them up when taking apart?

When we were kids, I helped a buddy put an engine in his Nova. We had coarse thread bolts to use. It didn't make it out of the subdivision before the rattling started. I got to lay in the street tightening those back up LOL.
Oh and a friend warned to never test start an engine with the converter slid back into the trans and not bolted up. That converter probably won't stay there I hear!

FYI, one source of loose converter bolts that has been found a few decades ago is the powder coating on flexplates would wear away over time. Back in the day, we used to take a wire brush/wheel to the flexplate and remove the coating around the bolt holes. Today, they no longer powder coat that area of the flex plate...

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:
When we were kids, I helped a buddy put an engine in his Nova. We had coarse thread bolts to use. It didn't make it out of the subdivision before the rattling started. I got to lay in the street tightening those back up LOL.
Oh and a friend warned to never test start an engine with the converter slid back into the trans and not bolted up. That converter probably won't stay there I hear!

On through bolt applications I don't use lock washers either. I use the deformed thread lock nuts. I don't reuse them either.

quote:

Originally posted by DragRaceResults:
I'd also recommend antiseeze. It's more of an issue with the insert on the converter not the flexplate fit. I've had a few like that. I'd also recommend our NEW lock washers as I've already had a few come loose with regular lock washers.

They will NEVER come loose with these.



https://collectortethers.com/T...rs-6pk-4000-6100.htm

Are both faces of these washers the same?

I still see no need for any kind of lock washer to be used here. Hopefully these washers are soft enough so they won't damage the surfaces of either the flex plate of converter. As HP increases the little details become more and more important. I have seen both flex plates and converters with indents under the bolt heads or nuts after disassembly due to being overloaded in this area because no hardened washers were used to spread out the bearing loads from the bolts. I have used cylinder head stud washers for years with great results/no indenting on the flex plate or converter along with no loosening of the converter bolts. I always use red Loctite on the flex plate/crank bolts which works great too. No washers here are required from my experiences due to the size of the bolts.

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:
When we were kids, I helped a buddy put an engine in his Nova. We had coarse thread bolts to use. It didn't make it out of the subdivision before the rattling started. I got to lay in the street tightening those back up LOL.
Oh and a friend warned to never test start an engine with the converter slid back into the trans and not bolted up. That converter probably won't stay there I hear!

On through bolt applications I don't use lock washers either. I use the deformed thread lock nuts. I don't reuse them either.

I actually use those now and loctite. Can't be too careful I guess. LOL.

quote:

Originally posted by TOP38:
I still see no need for any kind of lock washer to be used here. I always use red Loctite on the flex plate/crank bolts which works great too. No washers here are required from my experiences due to the size of the bolts.

same here and I too don't see the need nor have I ever used lock washers on torque converter bolts. I use a flat washer and nylon lock nuts.

ARP has converter bolts for under $20.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1320racer,

Clean the paint off the pilot on the converter where it goes into flexplate guide . I have seen converter necks with 1/8 inch of paint on them and can wedge the converter and misalign the receiving threads when not using a bolt and nut .