With 513 Hp it is relatively low HP from my experience alcohol will really wake it up. Some say on BBC over 1100 Hp gas will actually make more power than alcohol. Below that alcohol will really help most motors. I have even ran alcohol on a low performance 9.4 compression motor and it made a huge difference.

What size carb? Well that depends on several things.
In my opinion if you have a tall gear like 4.88 and a good stall say over 5500 RPM then you simply can not get too big of a carb.
When I first started bracket racing 1990? I had a 67 Camaro with your basic LT1-350 probably made 325 Hp, 4.88 rear gear and 5500 stall. All the magazines and Holley books said the car needed like 400 CFM carb for best performance. I went to the track with a 650, a 750 and an 850 Holley carbs set up and did some testing. Ran all three same day starting with the 650 then the 750 and the 850. It went significantly faster with the bigger cars. Then went back to the 650 and it slowed back down to original ET.

Do not know who makes a good alcohol Dominator but I think if you have a 1150 and go with a smaller you are going to be dissapointed with performance. Many people make a good 4150 but a large Dominator takes more fuel and it has to be right. I do not know who to recommend for a good alcohol Dominator. Maybe someone can help you with that.

Now if you are driving it on street with stock converter totally different deal.

Anyone that says they have issues running alky just don't know what they are doing. Vacuum pump, make sure you get the temp above 164 degrees, be consistent and make sure you use a little, not what they say on the bottle, top lube.
Belt drives are typically better when you get over about 800 HP just because of volume, make sure you have a lean out and make sure you have a carb builder that runs alky, not just sells them.

You can get 50 sh*thouse lawyers telling you how great or how bad it is, reach out to someone that wins a lot of races, knows their setup and goes down the track all the time for advise. The others/opinions are just like *******s, everyone has tone some just stink worse than others.

1050 dominator is my opinion, but then again I wouldn’t buy any carb unless it came from APD and was sized for my combo per their recommendation

If you're dead set on running a carb, give Mark Whitener a call, he goes by jmarkaudio on here and yellowbullet. He'll get you what you need, done right, for a fair price, and great support as well.

Personally though, after making the switch, I'd run injection....much easier than a carb....but that's a personal opinion.

quote:

I have a 482 BBC, that put out 513 hp on a chassis Dyno, I don’t know what the engine hp is by itself. I now run an 1150 dominator, and am thinking of switching to alcohol, what size carb should I be looking at?

That gas carb seems waaaaay big for that power level .
If you are footbraking a 4150 will be a better carb, if you're leaving off a brake a Dominator will work fine and be a little quicker.
We just finshed our first full season running alcohol and had great luck !!. No more work than gas if you race often and way cheaper. Cold morning warmups is the only downside we found and a primer plus would cure most of that.
We run a 4150 Rupert 950 on our 477 bbc and it made 600hp at the wheels on Nickersons chassis dyno, having Rupert build us a 1000hp for this season.
We have ran a Nickerson alky 1050 dominator on our other car and it didn't footbrake as clean as a smaller 4150 but was a bunch faster.

I'd keep your gas carb on the bench and just buy a new carb for your combo.

jmo .........

HS professor...KNOWS!

quote:

Originally posted by HS professor:
having Rupert build us a 1000hp for this season.

as I stated in the first reply...

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
1000HP aka 850 4150

Been running ALKY since 1992. As others have stated no problems. As of 2020 thats 28 years and racing this year will be 29 years and still do not for see any problems. APD,RUPERT,BO LAWS,C&S,and as 1320racer stated a Holley hp 1000 out of the box. And also Rons Fuel injection. Its funny still after all the years of running ALKY somebody will come along and say you are gonna ruin your motor. I just agree with them and say I might switch to propane as thats the most friendly fuel to motors and good for state parks too.

quote:

Originally posted by SLICKSTER:
Been running ALKY since 1992. As others have stated no problems. As of 2020 thats 28 years and racing this year will be 29 years and still do not for see any problems. APD,RUPERT,BO LAWS,C&S,and as 1320racer stated a Holley hp 1000 out of the box. And also Rons Fuel injection. Its funny still after all the years of running ALKY somebody will come along and say you are gonna ruin your motor. I just agree with them and say I might switch to propane as thats the most friendly fuel to motors and good for state parks too.

Why do you say propane is the most friendly fuel to an engine? Not being an idiot like some. I am just curious what properties you are saying make it the best?

quote:

Originally posted by BG7X77:
Why do you say propane is the most friendly fuel to an engine? I am just curious what properties you are saying make it the best?

Probably because it is a very clean burning fuel, and also does not dilute oil or wash down cylinder walls.

Back to the OP Question, (Fastracer482), what heads intake and compression are you using? Assuming your car is an automatic trans, and using the common rule of thumb that says a chassis dyno HP rating for an auto is approximately -20%, that would put your crank HP around 615. If your heads are even moderately decent, it should easily be able to swallow the air/fuel delivery of a 1000 or 1050 CFM alky carb. I'm running an alky 1050 Dominator on my 468, and it is not over-carbed. That said, as noted by others, it may not leave as crisp on the footbrake as say an 850. If your intake is designed for a 4150 series carb, the 1000HP would be a good choice. If Dominator intake, then I'd go with a 4500 (Dom) series. I don't recommend using carb adapters.

If I built a new car or bought a used car, task one would be install a 2100 Terminator and primer plus. Little maintenance, easy to tune and stupid consistency = going rounds.

This!

quote:

Originally posted by adv ET 266:
If I built a new car or bought a used car, task one would be install a 2100 Terminator and primer plus. Little maintenance, easy to tune and stupid consistency = going rounds.

Propane as a motor fuel is not always motor friendly.

For years I serviced engine driven air cooled engined welders. Usually Onan flathead engines. A small percentage were propane powered. Those engines were often in bad shape compared to a gasoline powered machine. Valves and seats in bad shape. You also lose power with Propane. Engines are down 15-20% and machines have lower output ratings.

I’ve run Methanol and had no big problems of any kind maintaining my engine or the fuel system. Carb’d or Ron’s Terminators. Just a little different routine and learning how best to run methanol.

A Gas carb is more user friendly for throttle stop racing FOR ME and that’s the only reason I run a gas carb now. Some racers have no problem using Methanol with carb or injection for throttle stop racing.

I have a Terminator on my dragster and an alky HP 1000 by APD on my door car with a 660 HP 468 BBC.

I don’t really prefer one over the other. As much as I like injection, I use the door car for top bulb, bottom bulb, and throttle stop and it’s just easier to deal with a carb in the various situations.

To just answer the question, I’ve been very happy with the HP 1000 but never tried a Dominator on it. I tend to leave at fairly low RPM so not sure what the signal would be like on a big carb.

I switched from gas 8 years ago and i will never run gas again period..

quote:

Originally posted by Sugar Shane:
Alky is A LOT OF WORK! The maintenance NEVER STOPS!

Really? I spend 10 minuets after a race to cleanout .... if that's to much for a .030 gain in ET and 4 mile an hour your playing in the wrong hobby....LOL

This always comes up about alcohol and there is a bunch of misinformation that has been around for 30 years.
I have ran it since 1998 with no problems. Now when I first started running alcohol it was milking the oil bad. I did two things.
1. I leaned the idle mixture down a lot to where and that really helped. Most all alcohol setups are just too rich at low RPM. You tune your gas carbs to get idle mixture right but people leave alcohol carbs way too fat and wonder why it milks the oil?
2. Put a leanout valve on it and use it to get water temp up at start of the day and most important at end of day get oil good and hot before you put it in trailer. That evaporates the moisture out. A vacuum pump will help for several reasons but it is not required. Just get oil hot. Water boils at 212* and I think alcohol at around 160* so get that oil temperature up to get the moisture out. In a vacuum even lower temps.

A few other things use good hoses and fittings and realize they are not going to last forever with gas or alcohol.

Use top lube but do not over do it.

To answer the question an 1150 is big on gas but can run OK. On methanol it will want a smaller carb. If you want to stick with a Dominator platform a 1050 will work, but you will want it with some skirted banjos in the neighborhood of 1" to 1.1" You can also go with a large 4150, newer stuff has a dual patter base, with a thin spacer to cover the opening around the outside to prevent a vacuum leak and clear the linkage.With alcohols I strongly suggest an all billet platform, anodized to protect the surfaces better. It's around a few hundred more but a much better overall investment. I build with billet bodies from BLP and APD, billet bowls, metering blocks, and baseplates, so whoever you buy from see if they offer parts from one of those companies.

As adv et 266 stated. That system is super easy on oil and super responsive and the tech support is good also. I have a complete 2100 system in plastic tote with primer that I took of my car and carried it with me last fall to the races I went. 1st weekend with Terminator 2100 car went 5.35 at Kilkare in Ohio.Next weekend Clay City,Ky with new untouched APD 1150 5.349 first hit off trailer.Was totaly taken off guard as I expected to slow down at least into the 5.40s. Thought well maybe first hit at 10:45 am was just a fast hit. Well the next hit was at 12:30 and went 5.354 and then continued to be .35 to .37 for the next 3 days. Next race the Million at Montgomery, Alabama same results over 4 days. Came back home to Ohio, change oil looked great and then went back to Kilkare the last weekend with same results. APD seems to have a good handle on the balance between rich enough for great response and lean enough not to kill the oil.I do have a lean out valve.I have used APD in the past but have run Rons fuel injection since 2007 with the gas primer. I have had great luck with both. This is not a pitch for APD or any pitch at all. This was not ment as an experiment. This was with a new door car 2500 lbs.I had made 5 test hits at Milan Dragway in August all was fine. I had not raced all year and the fall races were the best to go to for me. As I said I had both systems with me and in about 45 minutes(old guy)can switch one to the other. Anybody else could switch probably back and forth in less time 25 min or so. I will run the injection again this year as I love it for foot brake. BUT I have not tried the 1150 foot brakeing as all the passes were of the trans brake leaving at 3800-4000 and 2 step. I will post the results later this season. Sorry for long post but if anyone would have posted they went as just fast with a APD 1150 as the Terminator I would want to hear the motor on the runs and examine the time slips. Again thes is not a PITCH or a BASH this was my real world on track 522 bbc, 6400 converter,powerglide 1.80 low, 4.56. 16-33 tire. I can care less if the E.T. is 5.30,40,50,60 there is 2 things my car has to do. Leave consistently as in reaction time. Then run the number consistently round after round or at lest predictable but no more movement than two hundreds over a three day event--- with no Grid or tricks on the ignition curve just old school MSD 7 ignition. Why cause I AM OLD. And yes I am from Ohio and yes I do know about the old Matty Boxes and yes I have used multi function MSD boxes and back in the early 90s used timed shift counters led display and stutters etc. If you have a car that is real good mechanically on an old analog ign.and then with the capabilities of the digital ign. you can finesse it the rest of the way when you switch. Ex. A new 4 link Dragster 4.80 car with 34-17 tires pulling 10 degrees out at the hit then bring it back in by 1.5 out to keep it stuck is a band aid for the suspension set up or junk tires but if that is what gets it down the track for ya so be it. And yes I have had a 4.67 Dragster and no timming out at the hit with a Digtal 7.

SLICKSTER.. Are you using the same intake, not removing, for both the MFI and the Carb?? If yes, how are you plugging up the holes ( 3 holes on Rons injector body) in the injector so they don’t leak air into the intake with the carb installed ??

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:
This always comes up about alcohol and there is a bunch of misinformation that has been around for 30 years.
I have ran it since 1998 with no problems. Now when I first started running alcohol it was milking the oil bad. I did two things.
1. I leaned the idle mixture down a lot to where and that really helped. Most all alcohol setups are just too rich at low RPM. You tune your gas carbs to get idle mixture right but people leave alcohol carbs way too fat and wonder why it milks the oil?
2. Put a leanout valve on it and use it to get water temp up at start of the day and most important at end of day get oil good and hot before you put it in trailer. That evaporates the moisture out. A vacuum pump will help for several reasons but it is not required. Just get oil hot. Water boils at 212* and I think alcohol at around 160* so get that oil temperature up to get the moisture out. In a vacuum even lower temps.

A few other things use good hoses and fittings and realize they are not going to last forever with gas or alcohol.

Use top lube but do not over do it.

Curly1....Knows!

A gas primer helps get it hot as well, and a benefit of an injection system with a gas primer is you can get all of the methanol out of the engine at the end of the day.

I have seen many alcohol setups that are too fat at idle. These are the guys that are always warming the car up in the staging lanes trying to get and keep heat in it. They are also the ones that milk the oil and say alcohol is a lot of work and uses 2.5 gallons per pass.