DRR Pro
| Better front brakes aren't going to help you, in my opinion and experience. The slicks are always going to overcome the fronts. I was NEVER able to hold my car with the brakes above about 2400 RPM, until I went to a spragless converter. Now I can hold it to above 3500. TH-400 w/2.10 low.
"Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular."
Dave Cook
N375
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DRR S/Pro
| Why 2 primary shoes? I use 2 secondary (more friction material) on the rears. I also used larger wheel cylinders on my rear drums, but I do have front factory discs on my Camaro with Ford drums on the rear.
Are all of the wheel cylinders good? Master cylinder putting out goo pressure? I can hold mine at 3500+ on the line if I wanted. |
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DRR S/Pro
| Don't know about drum shoe materials these days, but disc have a wide variety of "today's" materials available. Some, like ceramic, boast max stopping power from stop 1. Maybe there's some opportunity in mfg. / materials? Have you tried dragging your brakes on the way to the staging lanes?
Illegitimi non carborundum
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| | | Posts: 2461 | Location: OKC, OK | Registered: February 15, 2008 | 
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DRR Sportsman
| quote: Originally posted by Canted Valve:
Don't know about drum shoe materials these days, but disc have a wide variety of "today's" materials available. Some, like ceramic, boast max stopping power from stop 1. Maybe there's some opportunity in mfg. / materials?
Have you tried dragging your brakes on the way to the staging lanes?
I haven't tried that but it sounds like a great idea, thanks. In the early 70's we ran metallic brake linings and they were great for stopping but that was a clutch car. I couldn't find metallic linings about a year ago. These are regular old Bendix shoes. |
| | | Posts: 482 | Location: Maryland | Registered: January 23, 2007 |
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DRR Pro
| Ron, one of the better tips I received on this forum, was when I was having the same problem, pushing through the beams. I had tried all the high dollar shoes, Semi-Metallic, Metallic, you name it. A racer here recommended the cheapest house-brand shoes they sell at O'Reilly. (Brake Best, maybe?). And get the basic cheapies, not their Gold or Premium, or whatever. I bought a set, put them on, and instant improvement in holding at the line, even when cold off the trailer. And Dave/Goob is correct, it is the rear brakes you need to address. Mine has front disc, and a couple guys who were watching at the starting line told me it would just slide the front skinnies, with them locked up.
Dan "Jim" Moore
Much too young to feel this damn old!!
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| | | Posts: 1183 | Location: Farmersville, TX | Registered: December 05, 2002 |
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DRR Sportsman
| quote: Originally posted by FootbrakeJim:
Ron, one of the better tips I received on this forum, was when I was having the same problem, pushing through the beams. I had tried all the high dollar shoes, Semi-Metallic, Metallic, you name it. A racer here recommended the cheapest house-brand shoes they sell at O'Reilly. (Brake Best, maybe?). And get the basic cheapies, not their Gold or Premium, or whatever. I bought a set, put them on, and instant improvement in holding at the line, even when cold off the trailer.
And Dave/Goob is correct, it is the rear brakes you need to address. Mine has front disc, and a couple guys who were watching at the starting line told me it would just slide the front skinnies, with them locked up.
Thanks Jim, I'm ready to try some O'Reilly cheapies. I'll let you know. |
| | | Posts: 482 | Location: Maryland | Registered: January 23, 2007 |
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DRR S/Pro
| quote: I couldn't find metallic linings about a year ago.
Metallic / semi-metallic are not what you want. They require heat build up, i.e. the metallic component, and you don't have time for that. You need max performance from the get go.
Illegitimi non carborundum
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| | | Posts: 2461 | Location: OKC, OK | Registered: February 15, 2008 |
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DRR S/Pro
| I'd replace the wheel cylinders just because. Brake fluid attracts moisture and cast iron doesn't like moisture. Do you have a cast iron MC? Od course rubber hoses should be new too. I was amazed at the difference in my brake pedal feel from rubber hoses to braided lines. Been using organic linings and pads and the car stops fine from 108. |
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DRR Pro
| Ron, another tip: Make sure your drums are not glazed. If they are, you may want to get them turned for better bite on those new shoes. quote: Originally posted by Ron Gusack:
I'd also love to massage the shoe to fit the drum better and I might try that too. The good brake shops back in the 60's had the tooling to offer that.
Yes, they would Radius the shoes to match the arc of the drums. It probably made a difference, too. Some of the stuff from "the good old days" really was better. Not everything, but a lot of it, especially for us Car Guys.
Dan "Jim" Moore
Much too young to feel this damn old!!
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| | | Posts: 1183 | Location: Farmersville, TX | Registered: December 05, 2002 |
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DRR Sportsman
| Stocker guys are using disc brake setups with 2 calipers on each side.
I'm not in a bad mood, I just look that way.........
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| | | Posts: 1042 | Location: Kingman, Arizona | Registered: March 29, 2004 |
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DRR Sportsman
| quote: Originally posted by Eman:
I'd replace the wheel cylinders just because. Brake fluid attracts moisture and cast iron doesn't like moisture. Do you have a cast iron MC? Od course rubber hoses should be new too. I was amazed at the difference in my brake pedal feel from rubber hoses to braided lines. Been using organic linings and pads and the car stops fine from 108.
MC is iron and hoses are rubber. This thing stops fine but holding it at 2900 is a no-go the first couple runs. |
| | | Posts: 482 | Location: Maryland | Registered: January 23, 2007 |
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