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Go  | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply | |
| BBC engine block? | Login/Join |
| DRR Trophy |
Anyone use a MarK IV 454 block #10069286. It's a 90-91 short deck 4 bolt main. Looking at one seems like a good piece to start with. Good? or Bad? | ||
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| DRR Top Comp |
Chase the starter bolt hole threads, head bolt hole threads, water pump, bellhousing, fuel pump. If all that checks out, I pay $500 for em every chance I get. Pump gas muscle car engines. Do a rudimentary check on the line bore too. They'll go as much as 060 over safely no problem.  | |||
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| DRR Trophy |
So Mike? you are having good luck with the 286 blocks? I googled the block number and found of course pros and cons on this block. (Pros) One person said they made 1400hp using that block and the(Cons) they have thin wall castings. My plan is to make about 600hp+ with a 489 stroker. | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
I have one in line now 4.280 bore 4.25 stroke BBC. I drove to West Palm Beach Fl. to pickup the late model 4 bolt block. Scat rotating assembly.  | |||
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| DRR Trophy |
What about testing the blocks? Pressure, magnaflux and sonic? | |||
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| DRR Elite |
What type of build is this block going to be used for? | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
Typically, buying these blocks require a minimum of a 100 mile ride to pick em up, for me. If you got a guy who'll work with ya sure. I'm talking about checks you can do if you buy one at a swap meet, or gotta take a ride to pick it up. I bought a block I couldn't use, actually I could've but chose against it. Goes with the territory. | |||
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| DRR Trophy |
489 (.030 over) 4.250 stroke, 6.385 rod, center counter weighted crank, 12.1 CC, solid roller, Eddy alum.320 heads, dominator intake, 2-1/8" headers | |||
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| DRR Elite |
It will be fine for this build which will make around 700HP. That said I’d used 2” headers. | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
That'll make 700 hp plus. I just did one 10:1 compression, hydraulic roller cam made 700 plus with Pro Comp 320's. Pro Comp 320's are pretty decent though. The one's I get are assembled in Tennessee with all Manley parts, they come with a shorter rectangular port than say as example a traditionall 990 rectangular port Chevrolet/GM head. I prefer it 468-496 actually.  | |||
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| DRR Elite |
Bullshyt feel good dyno sheets are meaningless. The time slip tells the truth! | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
For what it is, that'll be a nice little engine. I wouldn't be afraid of a late model Gen IV block +030 at all. Like I said I have one in line, same block + 030, same stroke. It'll be on the stand after the all aluminum 572 dragster engine I'm doing currently. | |||
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| DRR Trophy |
Thanks for input you two. I know you both are under a lot of heat on this forum, but you know when it comes to tech info. I trust both of you. This motor is going into a super street 3250 lb. with me in it. I don't intend to be the one chasing. Keep it under 135. Just have a motor that will keep the R's down at finish line for longevity. So?? What would be your cam selection?? | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
Camshafts are few and far between but I've noticed JEGS has Lunati cams in stock. They're selling a Lunati 50204 for what I paid for one 20 years ago. 339.95 That cam will meet your goals, easy on parts too. There's others I'd prefer because already run this cam but it's the best bargain price wise, and easy to get I've seen. 269/276 685/692 110 Most solid rollers are around $500 or plus. | |||
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| DRR Trophy |
Amazing that's the same cam that was in the motor that blew up. Was running 5.14 gears and with that cam it was out of breath at 1100'. Planning on changing gears to 4.71's. Yes that cam has a lot of bottom end and "knock on wood" showed no signs of valve train problems. Run the valves between races and would always be the same.The engine break was too many runs or an oiling problem, haven't pin pointed that yet or does it matter. Have a cam I haven't tried. It's a Clay-Smith single pattern 274 @ .050 .680 lift @110 | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
Clay Smith cam sounds good too. | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
Have a good shop do a touch off, checks bore to dowel align, cam / crank front to rear and lifters. If your machine shop can’t do it, find one that can. It’s worth the money! Just went through this. California Screaming! Raceless in California! | |||
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| DRR Elite |
I’ve been wrenching hot rods and rebuilt my first engine nearly 50 years ago as well I worked in an engine shop and I never have heard the phrase “touch off” must be a California thing. That said, while qualifying a block has value, for this build, anything more than checking for cracks and maybe pressure checking is a waste of $. This is obviously a budget build otherwise it would start with a new aftermarket block and be built with at least a 4.560 bore. Me, today, I would not waste my time today with a stock/gm block for any race engine. | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
Ed, Curious why you wouldn't use a Merlin block on any build. Do you know something other people don't? I would have figured that they would have everything lined out by now. Is it made with poor material or what? Inquiring minds want to know. Clowns to the left of me, Jokers to the right. Here I am....... | |||
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| DRR Elite |
Vern, a few reasons… 1. Back in the day Merlin aka World Products was owned by Bill Mitchell who along with his products didn’t have a great reputation. 2. All the nationally known sportsman engine builders did and still do use Dart Big M blocks when the choice is cast iron block. | |||
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