Can I get some info from you guys on what head would work best for my setup?

Current setup.
.040 over 383
13/1 pistons
Comp 294cam hr 243/248@.050 .540/.560lift
Promaxx 190cc heads
Ported victor jr intake
850cfm Holley Xp
5500 ptc 8”
4.30 gear
2540 lbs

Truck runs 10.50s @ 125mph 1/4. Rpm is 6800-7000 threw the traps

I’m looking at 210 or 220 AFR heads

I have a hr now but plan to upgrade at some point to solid roller.

Questions are:

which head will work best on a 100% drag truck?

Should I get the head set up for solid roller now?

If I plan to put 200 shot of nitrous on it from time to time just to play would I need to do anything differently when ordering the heads?

It runs decently now for what it is, put the cheater plate on it.

When you buy cylinder heads, buy cylinder heads with everything in mind (bigger roller camshaft) plus more cubic inches.

I'd be looking at Brodix 233 or AFR 235 406-427 cui

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
It runs decently now for what it is, put the cheater plate on it.

When you buy cylinder heads, buy cylinder heads with everything in mind (bigger roller camshaft) plus more cubic inches.

I'd be looking at Brodix 233 or AFR 235 406-427 cui

Absolutely NO!

Decide on what you want to do and choose the right part for that goal! If you put large heads on your motor as suggested here, you will take your combo which seams to be working and kill it!

No, adding some NOS here and there should not influence the head choice!

So, before you choose a head, how much power do you want to make? You start here first then build the combo.

Why not just contact a qualified head porter like Chad Speier and see if they just need a little work? I'm pretty sure Chad is very familiar with these heads and could probably wake them up conserably on your combo....Bigger heads aren't always the answer.

Mark, the racing world is far bigger than Chad and the OP doesn't need a head porter, rather he needs the right size intake runner for the engine he has or is building from and that head can be had from several manufacturers the to choices being Brodix, Dart and AFR

Just giving him options Ed.....chill....Only referred to Chad because he's got a lot of experience with those heads....

I am chill and we all have an opinion, that's what these forums are. That said, I have no issue with Chad and his work "looks" nice BUT he is not a player outside of the forums no different than several others that post here that have a business providing some kind of "performance" service.

quote:

Originally posted by TOP38:

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
It runs decently now for what it is, put the cheater plate on it.

When you buy cylinder heads, buy cylinder heads with everything in mind (bigger roller camshaft) plus more cubic inches.

I'd be looking at Brodix 233 or AFR 235 406-427 cui

Absolutely NO!

Decide on what you want to do and choose the right part for that goal! If you put large heads on your motor as suggested here, you will take your combo which seams to be working and kill it!

No, adding some NOS here and there should not influence the head choice!

So, before you choose a head, how much power do you want to make? You start here first then build the combo.

Did you read what I suggested? Apparently not.

I suggested it runs pretty decent now, for what it is. I then suggested more cubic inches in conjunction with a big roller camshaft and Brodix 233 cylinder heads.

I know a little bit about running in the 5's N/A with a 23 sbc and a 3200 Lb all steel street car on a 10 x 28 tire off the trailer with an engine and transmission I put together in the back yard.

I'd say it's safe to say, I know more about it than you or anyone you know. So do yourself a favor and read what I suggest, you might learn something.

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:

quote:

Originally posted by TOP38:

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
It runs decently now for what it is, put the cheater plate on it.

When you buy cylinder heads, buy cylinder heads with everything in mind (bigger roller camshaft) plus more cubic inches.

I'd be looking at Brodix 233 or AFR 235 406-427 cui

Absolutely NO!

Decide on what you want to do and choose the right part for that goal! If you put large heads on your motor as suggested here, you will take your combo which seams to be working and kill it!

No, adding some NOS here and there should not influence the head choice!

So, before you choose a head, how much power do you want to make? You start here first then build the combo.

Did you read what I suggested? Apparently not.

I suggested it runs pretty decent now, for what it is. I then suggested more cubic inches in conjunction with a big roller camshaft and Brodix 233 cylinder heads.

I know a little bit about running in the 5's N/A with a 23 sbc and a 3200 Lb all steel street car on a 10 x 28 tire off the trailer with an engine and transmission I put together in the back yard.

I'd say it's safe to say, I know more about it than you or anyone you know. So do yourself a favor and read what I suggest, you might learn something.

Killin Me Smalls..

He said nothing about a bigger motor. You implied to buy big heads now for YOUR future which is not his future...… And di you read my last statement? Never mind....u may carry on with running 5's...

He wants to make as much power as he can for as little money as possible, the same as everyone else.

A AFR 210 he might make 20hp more than he is now operating just above 7000 rpm at the stripe.

This tells any rational thinking human it would be a better idea, to take that money and buy a better head for more cubic inches down the road, in order to gain a substantial amount of hp, for about the same money in the cylinder heads.

A 383 is a stepping stone 23 sbc. Everyone knows this, that knows anything about sbc's.

He's running pretty decent now, use it up. Then it's time for a substantial power gain with more torque / cubic inches.

I've never bought into the notion of buying bigger heads, bigger camshaft, bigger carb, bigger headers for the engine you hope to build in the future, all that leaves you with is an engine/car that is a slug NOW!

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
I've never bought into the notion of buying bigger heads, bigger camshaft, bigger carb, bigger headers for the engine you hope to build in the future, all that leaves you with is an engine/car that is a slug NOW!

Yeah, but you don't build engines, you buy them from Sunset. I build engines so I understand a 383 is a stepping stone sbc. The OP is already concerned about crossing around 7000 rpms. This tells me he's already out of potential for rpm as far as durability. Bolting AFR 210's adds maybe 20 hp. It's time for exponential growth more cubic inches + torque + the potential for RPM.

Your local engine builders suggestion ^^^^ exponential growth.

I don't build engines because I make alot more $ than most engine builders but I slept at a Holiday Inn last night and know from 30 years of bracket and class racing several cars, several small and big block combos your advice is dead wrong and if the OP follows it he will be left with a slug that can't fall out of tree!

BTW, Sunset hasn't built an engine for me since 2012.

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
I don't build engines because I make alot more $ than most engine builders but I slept at a Holiday Inn last night and know from 30 years of bracket and class racing several cars, several small and big block combos your advice is dead wrong and if the OP follows it he will be left with a slug that can't fall out of tree!

BTW, Sunset hasn't built an engine for me since 2012.

My suggestion is dead right considering rpm at the stripe, alone.

Do you want the OP to buy a rotating assembly too ,to go along with a lesser cylinder head, lesser cubic inches and less power, than if he did the same building a bigger cubic inch power plant?

You're not being rational. Doesn't matter how long you've been racing. Irrational is irrational.

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
I've never bought into the notion of buying bigger heads, bigger camshaft, bigger carb, bigger headers for the engine you hope to build in the future, all that leaves you with is an engine/car that is a slug NOW!

Yeah, but you don't build engines, you buy them from Sunset. I build engines so I understand a 383 is a stepping stone sbc. The OP is already concerned about crossing around 7000 rpms. This tells me he's already out of potential for rpm as far as durability. Bolting AFR 210's adds maybe 20 hp. It's time for exponential growth more cubic inches + torque + the potential for RPM.

Your local engine builders suggestion ^^^^ exponential growth.

I won't be buying one of your Build for the Future engines,,, that's for sure!

BTW I thought you were a tranny builder???
Do you build tranny's for the future too?

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
I don't build engines because I make alot more $ than most engine builders but I slept at a Holiday Inn last night and know from 30 years of bracket and class racing several cars, several small and big block combos your advice is dead wrong and if the OP follows it he will be left with a slug that can't fall out of tree!

BTW, Sunset hasn't built an engine for me since 2012.

My suggestion is dead considering rpm at the stripe, alone.

I want the OP to buy a future rotating assembly,to go along with my large cylinder heads with lesser cubic inches and less power, than if he did the same building a bigger cubic inch power plant!

I am not being rational. Doesn't matter how long I have been building for the future. Irrational is irrational. And I run 5's so I know what I am talking about.

Fixed it for you!

Remember, opinions are like an anal orifice, everybody has one. You don't provide a lot of info on your engine combination, i.e., whats the bottom end like? Can this combination withstand any more RPM or torque? Before I would drop any $$$$ on the heads I would seriously look at a cam swap to a solid roller and bring the heads up to what the cam wants. A very renowned engine builder schooled me on heads many years ago, he built some of the most deadly SS and comp engines around. He explained to me that an engine is nothing more than an air pump, the more efficient, ergo, the more power. It's really about the combination. Your current combination looks pretty stout, but there is room for improvement. Talk to a knowledgeable engine builder, their experience may be worth the time. BTW, that engine builder kept me from making a big $$$ mistake on heads. We redid my combination without spending a lot of $$$ and the car picked up over .50. Good luck.

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
I am chill and we all have an opinion, that's what these forums are. That said, I have no issue with Chad and his work "looks" nice BUT he is not a player outside of the forums no different than several others that post here that have a business providing some kind of "performance" service.

Really? Full time now going on 15 years. All I do is port heads. Have them all over the world. Have National records. Just did a set for Reher last month. Shipped two more sets of Super Stock heads to FJ Smith. Did a set of iron heads for Scott Schraioff recently. The world is bigger than NJ.

Just sayin.

quote:

Originally posted by Fatboy81:
Can I get some info from you guys on what head would work best for my setup?

Current setup.
.040 over 383
13/1 pistons
Comp 294cam hr 243/248@.050 .540/.560lift
Promaxx 190cc heads
Ported victor jr intake
850cfm Holley Xp
5500 ptc 8”
4.30 gear
2540 lbs

Truck runs 10.50s @ 125mph 1/4. Rpm is 6800-7000 threw the traps

I’m looking at 210 or 220 AFR heads

I have a hr now but plan to upgrade at some point to solid roller.

Questions are:

which head will work best on a 100% drag truck?

Should I get the head set up for solid roller now?

If I plan to put 200 shot of nitrous on it from time to time just to play would I need to do anything differently when ordering the heads?

I'll bet you're sorry you asked...…...