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DRR Pro |
That's my "go to" as well. Dykes & Strippers Custom Wiring Auto Meter Authorized Dealer CleanYourTrailer.com Horse Power Sales USADragRacingChat.com Fab Shop Race Flow Development 245" Harry Clack 399 inches of Horse Power Sales Power 1.031, 2.978, 4.640 at 147.47 | |||
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DRR Trophy |
ARC - I have been wiring cars for a little while myself - 20 years total 12 as a real business. I can say that I have wired everyone's stuff and quite honestly for the money and features the ARC stuff is the best out there. I have installed John's stuff in about 140 cars and sold hundreds more to end users with zero comebacks or complaints. I can tell you that one time a customer welded on his car and some sparks and slag from welding hit the relay board that was not covered before welding and John still warrantied it. In this business Lifetime Warranty doesn't mean much but at ARC it does. John and I have become friendly over the years and his approach to business is unique and his knowledge is superior. His Pro Mod Panels were born out of the fact that competitors say they are 24v compatible and really are not, but his is and works great. I have had a 12001 in my cars since they came out. MSD/Carbon - Bear in mind that good carbon WILL conduct electricity. Good practice to ground the Carbon Panel. In many cases this might be a little overkill but I use Carbon a lot and I use a dedicated ground whenever I do. Hope this helps.This message has been edited. Last edited by: Rich Concato, Concato Racing LLC NA - SBC 1.015 - 2.945 - 4.556 - 152.78 Big Tire Camaro 1.116 - 3.230 - 4.993 - 139.75 Small Tire Mustang | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Some really good info coming out of this thread. Great example of what makes this site so useful. Thanks for sharing to all, (and Merry Christmas to y'all as well!). Dan "Jim" Moore Much too young to feel this damn old!! | |||
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DRR Pro |
I did my own stuff on my dragster. For my relay board I used a Nitrous Dave's, and it's been flawless. Zero issues whatsoever, and I've had it on a total of three different cars so far. For my battery cable, I run #4 welding cable. Super flexible and not real heavy. I do not have an issue with it getting hot from extended cranking, or voltage drop. I have a small panel that the cable from the battery goes to behind the seat, and another cable going to the engine. I have yet to see any voltage drop anywhere. Most of my grounds go straight back to the battery, but a few non critical things use ground studs on the chassis. From an electrical standpoint, I've had zero issues. Newest project is to clean up my nitrous system wiring (pretty sloppy right now, new system I just hooked it up with whatever to make sure it was working) and use a single connector for wiring. I'm going to use a battery plug to make it a one shot deal. It will be easier to disconnect that way if needed. Power and ground wires going to it will be #6. All the switches I use are simple, low current toggle switches I got from grainger. They are connected to the relay board with 22 gauge wire since they only turn relays on and off. Everything else is wired as appropriate for what it is. Mark Goulette Owner/Driver of the Livin' The Dream Racing dragster www.livinthedreamracing.com "Speed kills but it's better than going slow!" Authorized Amsoil Retailer | |||
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