Moving along with our new Hombre build and getting ready to start the wiring. It's gonna be a typical bracket build for both footbrake and top bulb, I'll be using the K&R kit. I'm starting from scratch, not a wire in the truck so what's the new "norm" for wiring these days ??
I'm thinking the Grid is a good choice as it will handle a bunch of functions itself like shifting and data logging and will probably save a bunch of money in the long run, yes/no ??? Also probably gonna go right to 16 volt batteries, they seem to work well in our Firebird. I don't really like the Racepak idea as my eyes ain't what the used to be, so I'm gonna stick to standard gauges. I've wired a few cars in the past and all have worked well but Ideas and theories are constantly changing So I guess my questions are ……….

#1 What size battery cable and where do you run it and tie into the system ??
#2 Grounds ………. All dedicated and tied directly to battery or chassis acceptable ???
#3 Alternator wiring & wire size
#4 Battery/kill switch type and wiring ???

Thanks for you ideas and info ………...

I’m with you on those dashes. I’m just used to real gauges.

I would do the 16 volt, welding cable, tie cylinder heads together and all grounds to battery. Cable shutoff in cab and on the back that kills all functions including alternator. Cole Heresee makes a switch. You might investigate the Racepak Smartwire but I don’t know enough about it to recommend it.

I use East Coast alternator stuff and been very pleased. I used Weather Pack stuff but I have the crimpers. There are Deutsch and other connectors also.

Good luck!

Love the grid, lots of tools within it.

Love gauges, IMO to many failures with the racepak dashes in lighting and sending units.

Minimum 1/0, 2/0 is better on battery cable.
Grounds need to go to the battery IMO, all of them.
10 gauge on the alternator wire
We use the Moroso 74102 Super Duty cutoff

Do it right the 1st time, it will pay dividends in the long run.

I use the large welding cable for battery cables both positive and ground. I also have one of them directly to starter to ground it. May be overkill but it works.

2. I like the K&R wiring kit. It is fairly simple and easy to use.

3. I run a East Coast Electric 16 volt alternator and Powermaster bracket. Only bracket that would fit in tight location. My local starter / alternator guy said the alternator is the same for most of the $75 alternators as the $395 dollar ones. Same brand case, rectifier and diodes etc. Take that for what it is worth.

4. I use the XS Power 16 volt battery. Had a problem and they were great to take care of it. I recommend them. So far everything has worked well with 16 volts.

5. As for data Dash I currently have the RPM and it has been great with no problems but after hearing of all the problems with the other brands I am not sure I would do it again. I definitely always have a data logger from now on just not sure about dash if I build new car. Plus it is easier to read analog gauges.

6. For kill switch I have both manual switch in back and also an electric solenoid so I can turn power off from inside the car. Nice feature.

7. After I built the car had a battery charging lug that broke on burnout and shorted and nearly burned up my new car. Stuff can happen. I had asked about putting fuses in line and was told they are not needed on race car. I now have a fuse on my alternator and on the charging wires to battery solenoid so if anything happens it will blow fuse first. I started with small fuses and went up in size until they were not blowing when charging, ended up with 35 amp fuse. I believe in redundant safety's and back up plans.

My opinions, hope it helps.

Thanks for the replies guys !!!

Good idea on the fuses …….. Had a friends alternator bracket break and dropped the alternator on the frame. Shorted a bunch of stuff, it was ugly. Could have been much uglier !!!

What's the best way to handle the grounds ??? On my Nova, I had the negative cable run right into the passenger seat area and tied everything together there with a lug/bulkhead, did the positive the same way. It was kinda ugly and cumbersome and seemed like an awful lot of heavy wire...……

I've used the Lokar interior cut off switch on a few cars, a bit pricey but can't live with out it. How's an electric solenoid inside the car work ???

I have done the master shutoff several ways because I have moved my battery from nose of car to very back by wheelie bar to in the middle where it is right now. With front engine dragster weight distribution is pretty critical to making car work well.
I have the electric solenoid mounted in middle of car right near battery. Short heavy wire to solenoid then had a small 12 gauge? wire to activate solenoid. I goes from hot side to switch in ****pit and to rear of car. Both switches have to be on before solenoid will open.

Do a search there is a good thread about it here somewhere. https://drr.infopop.cc/eve/foru...277070296#7277070296

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Curly1,

I don’t see the need / added cost for 16v if sbc. If you can’t crank and start with 12v you have a wiring/ starter/ battery / ignition / fuel delivery problem imho. If my battery fails I can put the one from my truck in or vise-a-versa.

If you are expecting Grid to function the exact same in FB as it does with a TB release (box or no-box) you need to view my instructions to MSD Grid for Foot Brake Simplified HERE . Grid will Not record data, shift the transmission or execute other functions without starting the “Time from Launch Timer”. If using Grid in FB a different wiring method is needed for this to happen.

If going analog ignition, I recommend the new 7AL-3 (7330).

Lots of good info here. You asked about grounds... I love the "Ground-it" block I got from Shogun when they were still in business. It was a block of metal with two large battery lugs on it, and a ton of smaller lugs for whatever else you need. I mounted mine on the passenger floor/firewall area. I run a big cable from there to the battery ground in the trunk, and the other lug directly to the cylinder head, and connect the heads together. All my gauges or whatever else I need to ground goes directly to the block. The block itself is also bolted to the floor to ground all the random factory grounds that just bolt to the sheet metal.

You could probably make something like it, or find one used. I've never had any ground issues since I installed it.

quote:

I don’t see the need / added cost for 16v if sbc.

If going analog ignition, I recommend the new 7AL-3 (7330).

We went with a BB in the truck, I agree with the not needing 16 volts especially if we go with alcohol, but we already have a charger, so it's really not a big cost difference.

Being the truck will be mainly footbraked Is there any benefit going with a 7Al-3 over the 7720 ???? I'm not gonna lie …….. reading all your info on the Grid tends to scare me a bit, fear of the unknown I guess lol.

quote:

Originally posted by HS professor:
Being the truck will be mainly footbraked Is there any benefit going with a 7Al-3 over the 7720 ???? I'm not gonna lie …….. reading all your info on the Grid tends to scare me a bit, fear of the unknown I guess lol.

Grid could be programmed to shift your truck (same as RAS in analog, always active) and start recording several other ways without starting the Time from Launch Timer in FB. If wanting to do any timing control or Timer functions in FB, then you would need to follow what I wrote in Grid.

Grid does require a laptop, is easy to understand and interface with. Like I wrote, you can experience Grid programming prior to purchasing. Grid 7720 is 200 – 220mj of spark energy.

The 7AL3 (7330) offers much. Start retard, 3-step, RAS for shifting, retards and 160mj of spark energy. This would be my choice if wanting analog.

If it were me I'd Go Grid. Don't run the Time from Launch Timer in FB. When transbrake racing you have access to all the features in Grid. Use TB mode to experiment with timing and timer features if needed, and if you feel that it would be beneficial to run in FB, then set it up to accomplish this.

Because you are wiring everything now, allow for easy wiring manipulation at a terminal strip for possible future changes.

Thanks for the info, I understand a little more every post

The way I'm understanding this is ………. If I prefer analog, the new 7AL-3 is the way to go. I'll have the same grid features but can utilize the 7AL's simplicity in some of those features. I really have no preference either way. The 7AL is about $250 more than the 7720, so that counts for something.

The grid offers shifting, timing adjustments and datalogging plus I can add the O2 feature that I like as I currently use an LM2 in my other car. So once set-up, the 7AL-3 or the 7720 will essentially do the same thing ?? Either way, I'm going to have to carry a laptop for adjustments except for shifting or 3 step on the 7AL.

I'm not really seeing a benefit of using the 7AL-3, or am I missing something ??

How about reliability of the two ???

I like the idea of a terminal strip.

quote:

Originally posted by HS professor:
The way I'm understanding this is ………. If I prefer analog, the new 7AL-3 is the way to go. I'll have the same grid features but can utilize the 7AL's simplicity in some of those features. I really have no preference either way. The 7AL is about $250 more than the 7720, so that counts for something.

You are aware that MSD Grid is a 7730 (programmable controller) and 7720 ( power amplifier) combination that are purchased separately and need both for ignition? This Grid combination is approximately $175 more than the 7al3. But if you add the cost of rpm chips or selector modules that you might want for the analog ignition, the cost is very close to the same. Grid has far more features than 7al3.

Grid comes with a 1 yr warranty and I believe is as reliable as the analog boxes. The 7720 is repairable, but the 7730 is a throw away.

quote:

You are aware that MSD Grid is a 7730 (programmable controller) and 7720 ( power amplifier) combination that are purchased separately and need both for ignition?

Yes, that much I know. But I assumed that If I wanted to use a 7AL-3 that I would NOT need the 7720, Is that correct ??? I think I kinda understand it lol

I figured substituting the 7720 for the 7AL-3 added an additional $250 ish up front.

A maxi fuse for the main battery cable to the cut off switch. And a fuse from the alternator power cable to the battery is a must.

I used 1/0 battery cable. Buy from a reputable supplier, Welding cable the same size will work too.
I ran a 4 gauge ground wire to the engine block, but I also have a short 1/0 cable going to the chassis, and I have a 4 gauge wire off each head to the chassis.

I used 4 gauge wire for the alternator wire and I ran it all the way to the batteries in the truck. I use a continouse duty solenode that is triggered on and off by the cut off switch. This works great and not seeing any voltage drop.
Best way to wire the starter.

quote:

Originally posted by DragRaceResults:

Minimum 1/0, 2/0 is better on battery cable.
Grounds need to go to the battery IMO, all of them.
10 gauge on the alternator wire

In most cases 2 Ga is plenty. We have tested equal lengths of 2Ga and 1/0 on the same car and didn't see any voltage drop differences.

However...we have also don't testing on Alternators...only thing 10Ga is good for is a stock GM alternator when the battery is sitting right next to it...or one of those junk Shogun alternators. wire size for an alternator is a result of what the current output is and the length of wire. If you are wiring this correctly, the alternator is wired directly to the battery so ~10-14' and figure a minimum of 60-80 amps. with the little alternators like this I use 4Ga minimum and in some cases its 2 Ga. I do have some extreme Drag Week cars with twin batteries that I used 1ga alternator and battery cable with a 1Ga ground for the alternator and a 1Ga for the battery to engine ground.

quote:

If you are wiring this correctly, the alternator is wired directly to the battery so ~10-14' and figure a minimum of 60-80 amps. with the little alternators like this I use 4Ga minimum and in some cases its 2 Ga.

Thanks again for the replies !!!


I figure at least a 16' run from the alternator to the batteries by the time I snake it around everything and neatin it up, 4 maybe 2 gauge wire

To expand on the wiring subject, anyone know of a relay/ fuse panel to start with that is one unit, I seen the ARC stuff but im looking go cheap and use the switches in the car already

quote:

Originally posted by ZOBENV:
To expand on the wiring subject, anyone know of a relay/ fuse panel to start with that is one unit, I seen the ARC stuff but im looking go cheap and use the switches in the car already

Nitrous Dave's

https://www.facebook.com/marke...face=product_details
Here's a panel, if you copy this you can buy all of it on ebay or from Del City

quote:

Originally posted by ZOBENV:
To expand on the wiring subject, anyone know of a relay/ fuse panel to start with that is one unit, I seen the ARC stuff but im looking go cheap and use the switches in the car already

Also look at the Leash Electronics stuff.