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DRR S/Pro
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SBC ?

At what point (yrs? / # of runs?) do you use to determine when to freshen your sbc engine? Or, do you continue to run until something breaks?
 
Posts: 5508 | Location: 53056 | Registered: December 30, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Watch oil filter. I check compression when I lash valves. Watch time slips.
 
Posts: 23 | Location: indiana | Registered: September 14, 2023Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of CURTIS REED
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I log every run so I keep an eye on my crankcase vacuum, oil pressure and flash rpm so I know that the engine is making the same hp. Obviously the hp figures have to have weather taken into account.

As Doug does I watch my oil but I'm kinda cheap so I probably go further than many at 75 runs but I have a K&P re-usable filter to check between changes.
 
Posts: 5765 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of rusty
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its cheaper to freshen than to repair,also do you want to do in the prime of racing after a break.all combos are too different for a given #.i think you have a lot of numbers already.reward your motor when you start feeling guilty.i ran my bracket motor two seasons.lol this year i built afer every race.


thank you, president Trump
 
Posts: 4419 | Location: texas | Registered: February 17, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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quote:
its cheaper to freshen than to repair,also do you want to do in the prime of racing after a break..


Agreed. It’s tough to get race engines rebuilt/ repaired timely. I have two identical rotating assemblies in a little M and SHP with same head package. The SHP is rebuilt sitting as the spare since 2021.
 
Posts: 5508 | Location: 53056 | Registered: December 30, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by markemark:
Agreed. It’s tough to get race engines rebuilt/ repaired timely. I have two identical rotating assemblies in a little M and SHP with same head package. The SHP is rebuilt sitting as the spare since 2021.


I'm thinking about starting a 2nd long block using identical heads but might have the new heads ported. Heck, I don't know maybe I need to take a break while the engine is being freshened. It will be fine for another season. Might put in new springs & lifters this winter.

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1980 Camaro
Taking the Best Working Small Tire Shyt Box & making it Greater Than Before!
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Pump Gas 436
 
Posts: 4064 | Location: NV. | Registered: October 20, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I was on the fence about replacing the engine that had 1038 runs in 7 yrs back in April and decided to continue with it in 2026 the 8th year. The 2026 racing weather sucked with some events rained out and I had mechanical problems that forced me to miss several events. I raced a three day event last weekend and the weather was low 70’s and blue skys, just beautiful. Engine still running strong, as fast as when it was installed in 2019. This coming weekend was going to be the last event at my home track for me and I was going to switch engines. I ran the valves yesterday and found one I’ve been watching loose by 5 thou. I believe the lifter needle roller bearing is starting to fail. I’m done. 8 yrs and 1098 runs. I’m going to leave this engine sit for a couple years and make sure the rebuilt one (in 2021) is 100%. In the event I have a failure in the rebuilt engine, I can pull the intake off the present one, replace the old lifters with a new set and keep racing. My engine builder told me he’d put a new set of lifters in this one and keep racing it.
 
Posts: 5508 | Location: 53056 | Registered: December 30, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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Picture of Alaskaracer
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I check my stuff every season regardless of number of runs, refresh as needed. It's coming apart this year for new rings and bearings, had a few issues that I need to address but no major problems. Since I put the new combo together it's been pretty solid, other than a couple of bugs at first and a couple of self inflicted wounds. Making a couple of changes as well that will improve it a little.


Mark Goulette
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Posts: 3618 | Location: Back home in Alaska! | Registered: February 13, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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4-5 seasons running 1/8th mile is more than reasonable. When we freshened my 415sbc, there was literally nothing showing any wear.
 
Posts: 216 | Location: Omaha NE | Registered: October 31, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
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One thing rarely mentioned is cost to do later. Parts cost more very year. Do same build in year or two will cost more even if identical parts.

As sais cheaper to rebuild than replace. Schedule whould depend on how hard ran and power level. horsepower wears and breaks parts plain and simple. Lower power may live 3 times as long as maxed out engine.




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Posts: 12301 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
4-5 seasons running 1/8th mile is more than reasonable. When we freshened my 415sbc, there was literally nothing showing any wear.


This makes the question if one would rebuild 6-7 yrs if perfect last time going 4-5 yrs.

When my SHP was rebuilt at 500 runs the builder said it could have easily gone twice the distance. The Little M was already running for two years at that point and I decided to go to 1000 runs on his advice. The mistake I made was using needle bearing lifters in Little M build thinking it’s be a 500 run to rebuild at the time. Had I used bushed rollers it’d probably made over 1100 runs without failure. Still on the third set of spark plugs.

 
Posts: 5508 | Location: 53056 | Registered: December 30, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of CURTIS REED
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It's always the top end I worry more about. Rockers, springs, lifters are more of a concern than the short block.

I have 329 runs on my springs and 119 runs on my lifters. I'm putting on new intake springs and adding titanium retainers over the winter. Taking out some pressure at the same time.
 
Posts: 5765 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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How long to run it? I think on a lower performance motor you can run it for thousands of passes especially if you run a good air filter. When you start getting bigger lift, more spring pressure, more RPM, it really works the valve train and motor much harder.
From my experience if you have a good rotating assembly such as Crower crank and rods and you do not have any oiling issues the bottom end can last quite a while. Also from my experience good shaft rockers and lifters are critical to life of motor.
If I had a SBC making 650 HP or less with good parts I would not hesitate to run it thousands of passes with nothing more than regular oil changes and normal maintenance of anything needed. Now start making 700, 800 or more and the life starts going down quickly and I think most of the first problems will start with valve train.

Very few of us run air filters and we get scratches on cylinder walls and sometimes small rocks or bugs in there. The K&N gauze type filters do little in keeping dust and small dirt out but better than nothing that most of us do.
Most all of us have found a small rock or debris up on intake manifold and some have had them go in to the motor. Higher performance motors run thinner ring packs and they may wear out quicker with dust and dirt.

To me bottom line is harder you stress the parts of the motor the lower its life expectancy will be. If you have any parts that are a weak link more power you make quicker you will find it and uglier it will be when you do.


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Posts: 12539 | Location: United States of Texas | Registered: April 02, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of CURTIS REED
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I've been running an air filter that I made for probably 15 years. The element gets pretty dirty and I clean it a few times a year.

 
Posts: 5765 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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Below is our old, sponsored NA engine that dyno'd at 630 hp @ 6,000 rpm. As stated, it was in our car for 13 years & only had the lifters/springs changed every 2-3 years. It mostly ran on 100 UL pump gas but did see 3-4 years on E85. It was well maintained & did run with a K & N filter in the dusty NV. conditions. The engine was never abused & ran 1/4 mile most of its runs.

quote:
Originally posted by B KING:
The overkill motor is staged for the builder, hope to get it there in the next month. This motor has been in our 80 Camaro for 13 years & has never been out of the car or heads off. It got 100-200 passes a year on it & was very well maintained.

I've never named a motor before, but overkill was an appropriate name for this engine. All the parts in this motor were above needed for only 630hp. Anyway, it has a good foundation for around the 900hp that's coming.



2BKING Smile

Relaxing


1980 Camaro
Taking the Best Working Small Tire Shyt Box & making it Greater Than Before!
3100 lbs.
Pump Gas 436
 
Posts: 4064 | Location: NV. | Registered: October 20, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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