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| DRR Pro |
Trust me, I watch that dude just for the entertainment value. Anybody who claims that $20 worth of fuel is make or break to their racing program, shouldn't even be thinking about racing. Same guy comes back after a failed attempt to stage his car....it rolled through the beams because if he forgets to turn off something the t-brake won't engage. I say "you need to fix that", he's like "nah, I just need to remember to turn that off". I honestly don't know how he gets his shoes on. "Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular." Dave Cook N375 | |||
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| DRR Pro |
Yeah, I feel you there!! Alky will make more power, if your engine actually requires that sort of octane. "Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular." Dave Cook N375 | |||
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DRR S/Pro![]() |
That dude needs to learn what K.I.S.S. stands for. LOL | |||
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| DRR Pro |
Count me in this camp. 10 years since I made the switch, my maintenance routine is literally the same as it ever was, other than getting it hot before the final shutoff, and killing the fuel pump to run the bowls dry. The past 2 years I have not even drained the cell and lines at the end of the season, with no negative effects. I run Top Lube, but like Steve, I cut the amount in half, (not due to cost, but because it was leaving a bit of sticky or gummy residue on the carb parts). After the change, it has been fine, no more residue, I think the lube Mfrs want to sell twice as much of their product as is actually required. I use non-chlorinated brake cleaner for cold starts, rather than carb cleaner. I just remove the air cleaner, and hit all the air bleeds with a quick shot, reinstall the cleaner and it fires right up. And it has been much more consistent from day 1. And the cooling factor is huge, when racing in Texas heat. Dan "Jim" Moore Much too young to feel this damn old!! | |||
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DRR S/Pro![]() |
I want a coating of lube left when the Methanol flashes off. | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
How often do you change the oil and filter? My primary concern is the negative effect on the rings, cylinder walls, etc. While this issue seems to be overblown I still need to ask. Thanks for any replies. Bob | |||
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| DRR Pro |
Bob, Your oil & filter change will be based on your tune & more frequent than running race gas. As for running an additive to methanol you should be doing it. Your engine will thank you for it. As for issues/maintenance being over blown I agree but I think some members under emphasize this. There's is a happy medium between the two. What are your plans for your fuel support system: pump, tank location, lines just to name a few. Maybe I missed it, have you discussed this or thought about it? My opinion is based off my racing experience with 3 different types of fuels: pump 100 UL/race gas, E85 pump/VP E85 & VP M1. It's also based off your thread & the other Chem Source Methanol thread. Take it for what's worth, it's only my opinion. 2BKING ![]() 1980 Camaro Taking the Best Working Small Tire Shyt Box & making it Greater Than Before! 3100 lbs. Pump Gas 436 | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
On methanol I do 50 runs with a 6 qt oil system on 10w30 synthetic and Wix 51061 filter. Over 1000 runs on this engine presently and runs the same #’s. | |||
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DRR S/Pro![]() |
Bob, I will say this somewhat tongue in cheek. Don't look at your cylinder walls. LOL If you have never ran Methanol before you will hate what you see. Doesn't mean they are a problem but they won't look like gas cylinders. | |||
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