I am going to try to get the alternator in there. If it does not work then no big deal.

I cranked mine 5 or 6 times other week and no sign of starter slowing down. I had issue getting it cranked cpl times also.

Loving 16 volt set up.Now I don't have fans and or pumps to run. 12 volt deal with more cranking amps was struggling to spin motor fast enough to crank,especially with mag.

Is battery out front on new car? Distance might be why old battery not enough. I ran 0 wire for both positive and negative and still needed more battery.

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:

But with 16 volt battery you really don't need an alternator. Just turn your power off when you get back from a run and plug in the charger and you will be fine. I have been running 16 volts and no alternator for 6 years and hot lapped the hell out of it and never had an issue. Also make sure you have the charger plugged in 24/7 between races

I'm curious when you say hot lapping how many laps is that? We have double races a lot here and it's not unusual to make 12-14 laps. I have a friend considering 16v and he asked me about them. I just don't have experience enough to answer if it needs an alternator for sure.

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:

But with 16 volt battery you really don't need an alternator. Just turn your power off when you get back from a run and plug in the charger and you will be fine. I have been running 16 volts and no alternator for 6 years and hot lapped the hell out of it and never had an issue. Also make sure you have the charger plugged in 24/7 between races

I'm curious when you say hot lapping how many laps is that? We have double races a lot here and it's not unusual to make 12-14 laps. I have a friend considering 16v and he asked me about them. I just don't have experience enough to answer if it needs an alternator for sure.

Double entered and going deep in both classes. The main thing is kill the power and hook up the charger between runs even if it is for only 5 minutes while you add fuel every little bit helps. There is nothing wrong with running an alternator I just never felt I needed one. I should note that I ran alky injection with a belt driven pump so electric fuel pump obviously would add some load to the battery that I did not have.

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:
I am going to try to get the alternator in there. If it does not work then no big deal.

Just make sure you turn the power off while in the pits, I have noticed that you leave yours on in the past. Maybe its just me being anal but the other reason is so your not sending 18.5 volts to your electronics for longs periods while its trying to charge the battery

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:

Double entered and going deep in both classes. The main thing is kill the power and hook up the charger between runs even if it is for only 5 minutes while you add fuel every little bit helps. There is nothing wrong with running an alternator I just never felt I needed one. I should note that I ran alky injection with a belt driven pump so electric fuel pump obviously would add some load to the battery that I did not have.

Steve, I never thought you were saying that running the alternator was bad. He just asked me if he HAD to run one and I didn't know how well it would work without charging, which I see you are doing. I think part of it was the expense of battery and charger, then having to add the alternator cost also at the same time. Thanks for the answer.

Curtis

Well for me I am usually a one man operation and like to keep it simple as possible. With a good alternator you should not need to charge between rounds even though it is still a good idea to.

For an update I did get the alternator and battery in. Battery was on back order took forever. Anyway the 16 volt system really does work better. My alternator does not have any adjustment it is in between frame and oil pan but I found a belt that would work. It does spin over and start faster but best thing is the thing cools down much faster. Thw Maziere water pump was just not doing a good job and the 16 volt system sure made a huge difference there. And the fan noticeably moves more air. I got the XP1000 battery and matching charger.

16 volts is the cat's a-z-z!

Also do not forget, you can mount the back of the alternator towards the front of the car. An alternator will charge in either direction.

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:
I have always wondered if 16V actually has any more reserve. If you want to turn it over faster, voltage does it. But is there actually more stored energy in the battery?

A turbo start 16V almost dead still puts out 14V`s. I never been stuck with a dead 16V and skipped charging it while round robbing.

I went to 16v after putting together my new combo. No room for an alternator (yet, gonna figure it out somehow!). Engine starts easier and faster, and no issues so far. 12v barely cranked it, even with my super duper starter! Most I've done is 5 passes without charging between rounds, and voltage on the graph stayed at 15.8 the whole time.....I never was a big fan of the 16v stuff until I ran it.....different story now.....

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:
Just dont cheap out on the charger!!, get either the XS or the Moroso/Rock smart chargers. I leave mine plugged in 24/7 to maintain the charge. Make sure the first thing you do is plug in the charger when you get back from a run, even if your hot lapping and its only plugged in for 10 minutes it makes a difference.
Just a warning, 16V batteries are like the ones on your cordless drills, 1 minutes they are fine and will spin over like the plugs are out and the next minute they are dead.

That being said, I have been running 16V and no alternator for 6 years without any issues other than my first Rock battery dying in less than 2 years, been using XS since without any problems

I put a twist lock plug in the rear of the car that plugs into the 12 volt batts in the trailer. With the master off I charge the 16 volt while the 12 volt supplies the cooling fans and water pump, delay box if I need to make any changes. If I wanted to be able to bump the engine I would have to switch to welding plugs and a heavier cable than the 10/4 SO cord I am using. So far it works peachy. Fans and pumps kill the batts, and you cant charge the 16 v while they are running. You could also do this with a golf cart if you push back, run the cooling on 12 while back to your pit, and the 16 volt wont be as discharged.

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:
I am going to try to get the alternator in there. If it does not work then no big deal.

Just make sure you turn the power off while in the pits, I have noticed that you leave yours on in the past. Maybe its just me being anal but the other reason is so your not sending 18.5 volts to your electronics for longs periods while its trying to charge the battery

I've never ran 16 volts but I've seen a BUNCH of people saying to turn the power off while charging. For that reason I wouldn't run an alternator with 16 volts. If the alternator has any output at all the voltage is going to get pretty high.

I am bringing this post back up because I have a similar situation with different car.
I would like to mount an alternator on it butt have no room.

On this car I went back to 12 volt system because from my experience the 16 volt spins over faster but also goes dead quicker.

The motor has a front cam driven fuel pump, vacuum pump upper right side, crank trigger lower right side, oil pump lower left side and coil on the upper left side.
I have an old Shogun alternator that I actually may be able to mount directly under the harmonic balancer.

Problem with that is 1. they only put out about 14 amps and 2. The regulator / rectifier what ever it is I think is damaged.

So like to get a new one before I try it and fabricate a mount for the alternator. Where can I find the regulator or what ever it is?

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:The motor has a front cam driven fuel pump, vacuum pump upper right side, crank trigger lower right side, oil pump lower left side and coil on the upper left side.

Have you considered/ or is it possible moving the coil to mount an alternator in its place?

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:The motor has a front cam driven fuel pump, vacuum pump upper right side, crank trigger lower right side, oil pump lower left side and coil on the upper left side.

Have you considered/ or is it possible moving the coil to mount an alternator in its place?

Yes, I have and that to would be almost impossible due to cam mounted fuel pump (with return lines)and water lines going into block, plus the oil pump line there. Good thought but will not work on this motor.

The Shogun "regulator" is actually just a bridge rectifier. It came with a 25 amp rectifier, but you can put a higher rated one on there. I have a 40 amp rectifier on mine. Not that it will cause the "dynamo" to put out more current, it is just a higher rated unit that would be a little stronger. Listed below is the 25 amp rectifier that you can order from Amazon. You just need to make sure you connect it properly. 2 posts show the AC sinewave and the other posts are marked + and -. And you can use it on a 16 volt battery.

https://www.amazon.com/NTE-Ele...06531536&sr=8-6&th=1

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:


On this car I went back to 12 volt system because from my experience the 16 volt spins over faster but also goes dead quicker.

You must have a problem with that battery. Before i went to a Altronics lithium battery, i ran a turbo start 24 series 16 volt. I also run the fuel pump off the cam, dry sump, star vacuum pump, race pak, Holley Dominator EFI, no alt and never had a problem with the battery going dead, ever. With my SBO i would drive to the staging lanes and back to the trailer and again, no alt. Sometimes i would skip charging it. You cannot convince me that a 12 volt system is better.