quote:

Originally posted by CSRacing:

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
Make sure the booster aren't pouring fuel down the throat at any point when it's running.

You'll know the floats and fuel pressure is right when you can rip the throttle open with the lean out slightly open, and no more than one or two drops come off the booster.

Could be the regulator. If you see fuel pouring down off the booster, shut if off and work on the floats and regulator (fuel pressure).

I'll get out to the shop today and do some more investigating and try to post pictures.

There's a bunch of em in here who can help you, from the looks of it.

Bunch of good practical informative posts in this thread, on the basics.

Waiting for pictures to upload.

Ran the car for a bit. 170 degree coolant temp. No fuel dripping out of the boosters at idle or on a throttle wack. The engine runs happily with all 4 idle mixture screws turned all the way in. Picks up a little idle speed (maybe 100rpm) but will run that way indefinitely. This is with 5psi of inlet fuel pressure.

I also have the vacuum reference regulator and using gas. This stupid regulator drips fuel out the vacuum port if the car sits for a while. Just wondering if your using the vacuum port and the same thing is happening and sending extra fuel to the motor via the vacuum line. if i was using the vacuum port i would never know that it was leaking. Anybody have a part number for a replacement regulator? i have mine hooked up to the front of my fuel log 8an in and 8an return as per Patricks requirements for his fuel system. I gotta replace it before i burn my car to the ground.

Can't really tell from the photos but how much are you exposing on the 4 throttle butterflies?

Could be the picture. With the zoom the left front
idle jet looks almost plugged. To properly clean them, pull them and clean them. Get a light in back of them. Most common mistake guys make is blowing them clean when they are screwed in. You are just moving the dirt deeper into the idle well and idle tube well and idle jet.

When cleaning each individual one, Pull the idle screw out and give it a shot in both directions with carb cleaner.

The situation with the fuel dump is either bad N/S are sticking and or too high FP. You stated the one time you turned the pump on and it came out the vents prior to fire up. Change the N/S
Re adjust the floats. Really sounds like a dirt issue. What he put in there 130's or 150's?

Also if there is too much T slot exposure, it effects the idle circuit severely.. Just curious
What is the analogy for running 2 regulators on a carb whether gas or Alky. Never heard of that ever.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: TD3550,

quote:

Originally posted by CSRacing:
Waiting for pictures to upload.

Ran the car for a bit. 170 degree coolant temp. No fuel dripping out of the boosters at idle or on a throttle wack. The engine runs happily with all 4 idle mixture screws turned all the way in. Picks up a little idle speed (maybe 100rpm) but will run that way indefinitely. This is with 5psi of inlet fuel pressure.

If you shut it off but run the fuel pump does it still put fuel out of the vent tube? If the idle mixture screws have no effect then it's not running on the idle circuit.

Just to add. I have a 1050cfm alcohol carb in my trailer. My idle adjustment screw springs look similar to yours. That doesn't really mean anything. The actual blade position is whats important which can only be seen when the carb is upside down. For reference on my carb the front blade has a small amount of transfer slot showing and the secondary doesn't have any transfer slot showing. I bought this a few years back BUT i used a bolaws belt drive. Carb was flawless from patrick.

What about paperwork, do we have any paperwork like this?

If anyone is ever at Orlando Speedworld needs jets, gaskets, floats, air bleeds, needle seats etc etc.

I have two drawers full,and enough parts to put together a brass metering block BLP 950 alky carb.

Free I'll never use any of this.

I just bought a gasoline regulator for my BBC split bumper, because I forgot I had one. Come get this, I'll never use it.

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Rietow:
What about paperwork, do we have any paperwork like this?

The only paperwork I received was a receipt that didn't have any specs on it and a baggie of main jets that I have misplaced since the shop got built in June.

quote:

Originally posted by CSRacing:


The only paperwork I received was a receipt that didn't have any specs on it and a baggie of main jets that I have misplaced since the shop got built in June.

Definitely gonna need an insulator (wood spacer), under this carb. You're probably limited on hood clearance, but you gotta insulate the carb from the intake. I use carb insulators on 4150 carbs, not sure if they make em for dominator.

The nut cranked down on the rear accelerator pump arm won't be how it's run, when it is right. A few threads showing above the nut will be how it is set when correct.

Work on the stumble with the engine temp 160 degrees, and above.

A simple way to tell if it’s too much fuel pressure would be to turn off the pump and see how it reacts, if it’s flooding the motor I would think it would start clearing up pretty quick.

CSracing,

I sent you a private message.

I think I found the problem guys. I eliminated the return regulator and am dead heading the pump into the Pro Systems supplied regulator for right now and all seems to be working as it should. I suspect the 2 regulators may have been fighting with each other. I also went back to the smaller air bleeds as supplied by PS and I have better resolution on the mixture screws now.

I appreciate the help and tips from everyone. Hoping to get to the track this week to see how it works. Will report back.

Just curious. You're dead heading the prosystems regulator? As far as i know the regulators he supplies are bypass regulators with a vacuum port.

quote:

Originally posted by CSRacing:

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
Get rid of the vacuum regulator!! That’s your issue. Install 1 bypass regulator from Magnafuel or Product Engineering.

Will do. What pressure setpoint?

If the pump has the regulator on it built in set it at 21 lbs, get a holley 704 big port regulator and run #8 lines, set the regulator at 7 lbs.

The above will not help with the idle issues unless there si something wrong with the idle mixture circuit. everyone can mess something up. I bought a brand new NAME BRAND carb and it wouldn't idle below 3000 because there was an issue in the machining process. set it back and they tested it on an engine before it was sent back to me. i would recommend doing the same thing or change carbs. Get someone elses' alky carb and put it on and see if you replicate the issue, that will either confirm the carb or confirm the fuel system. At this point you need to start taking things out of the equation.

Just an FYI, i had a Magna fuel 400 with it regulated at 21 psi, a holley 704 to the carb and went 5.07@137 in my roadster so the setup works fine.

What is a return regulator? Are you referring to bypass regulator at the end of the fuel system?

quote:

Originally posted by banjo:
What is a return regulator? Are you referring to bypass regulator at the end of the fuel system?

Yes he is

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
Get rid of the vacuum regulator!! That’s your issue. Install 1 bypass regulator from Magnafuel or Product Engineering.

Been using that vacuum reg for 10 years always worked great. Is there a better way?