This ^^^^^^^^^^^^ is spot on.

quote:

Originally posted by adv ET 266:
Having sent you over here, I only have one little comment. If the lifter failed, “in place machining” of a cam lob occurred. your are taking a huge risk if you don’t take it 100% apart and clean the living heck out of everything. Cam bits have killed more crank pins then just about anything and for no other reason then the owner thinking he’s lucky and cutting corners.

Why would you send him here to endure the crap?
It is broken, has trash in the engine, hardened needle bearings that get lodged in the rotating mass and skirts/cylinder walls.
If you know him, talk some sense into him.
Pull it down, access the damage and make the decision.Nobody has money to do it once, much less twice.

I sent him here because he asked if I had a RM cam. Then I shared Errson makes those cams, like he wanted and I thought that was going to be the question, not all this other stuff.

lol this is getting good. If the motor has been what i think is slow why would i want the same cam that was in it? Maybe the cam IS the reason its slow because its over cammed.

Unless you lost a wheel immediately, more likely is started some time ago. you just now happen to hear the noise. Like most of us the covers get
pulled like screen door in a wind storm. lol

you want the same cam because you have stated you don't intend to rebuild this engine. A different cam will require it to be degreed in and checking piston to valve clearance and maybe cutting the pistons for clearance.

i'm pretty sure we can still degree it in. If the cam is smaller is piston to valve clearance an issue? I think at this point i need to worry if any crap got past the filter and caused more damage. As said above this didn't just happen. I found the rocker a little loose in nov. and ran the crap out of it after that. I have to check the bearings for sure. The cam bearings look brand new. i'm going to call shafiroff today to see if they'll give me some info on this cam. I have a feeling this was built for something light and they cammed according to what ever it was built for.

yes and you're still just guessing about everything with this engine that you know nothing about and Why call shafiroff, you already stated it wasn't built by him.

Honestly, if you had a failure that could have wiped out the engine, get it torn down and inspected. Its an insurance policy at this point, plus if it needs any parts then you can look at building it back up the way YOU want it. You've already stated it under-performed you thought.. Sounds like a win win to tear it down to me.. Otherwise your just guessing and gambling as Ed stated..

I recommend you go back with a modern Bushed bearing lifter. Way more reliable. Most of the needle bearing roller lifters are like ticking time bombs. 2-3X more $ but you’ll sleep way better.

Geeze Paul, he has a bracket 540, he really does not need 1000 dollar lifters.
A good needle bearing lifter, for example, ISKY .842 dia 202-96 RH should go over 600 runs. Then at 18 bucks apiece get them rebuilt.
Buy a cheapo Moroso spring tester and check the springs to make sure they did not lose 75 lbs, keep the oil clean of fuel, dont start the engine and walk away while it sits there idling to warm it up,soggy springs and gas washed fuel are two of the biggest contributors to lifter failures, followed by the aforementioned "let it idle away . The sheet usually lasts just fine.
Not to reinvent the wheel.
I would guess at 75% of lifter failures are self inflicted form things mentioned above.

quote:

Originally posted by xtended_s10:
i'm pretty sure we can still degree it in. If the cam is smaller is piston to valve clearance an issue? I think at this point i need to worry if any crap got past the filter and caused more damage. As said above this didn't just happen. I found the rocker a little loose in nov. and ran the crap out of it after that. I have to check the bearings for sure. The cam bearings look brand new. i'm going to call shafiroff today to see if they'll give me some info on this cam. I have a feeling this was built for something light and they cammed according to what ever it was built for.

ABSOLUTELY piston to valve need to be checked. It is not necessarily the lift, it is when the events happen. Smaller duration cam events happen sooner, and larger duration events happen later. More piston to valve clearance issues happen with small duration cams than larger.
No guessing in this area.
Years back I used a 280/285 110/106 .475 lobe in Ernie Curcios 540 in a 2800 # chevelle and it ran 5.60's as I remember. It was only 13.1 I think that engine is still in Matts car, Cookies, but it has bee some years.