I believe Peterson Spring are the manufacturers for PAC..

you are correct, mind was foggy without my morning tea but the point is the same. While not the same company, the same spring(s)

I thought PAC was a division of Peterson Valve Spring? Sorry.....didn't see this was already covered.

quote:

Originally posted by TD3550:
I believe Peterson Spring are the manufacturers for PAC..

My PAC Spring contingency check this year came direct from Peterson spring

I always have been pretty content with Nextex in all the years i have used them. Never an issue.

I've used numerous sets of Manley Nextek #221424P from '05 through '18 on my 468 and 522 and the only issue I had was back in '12 IIRC, broke 3 springs in 3 weeks. Called Manley after the 3rd breakage gave them the batch # and I had a new set at my door 2 days later no charge.

The std BB spring is 1.625"-1.640" OD usually....

Good for .850 lift installed at 2.00 and has about 280 on the seat and is a dual spring with NO dampner....Coil Bind is at 1.100

1224 is the number PAC and PSI use as well as Nextek

It's more than enough spring for your average BB with steel valves and keeping rpm modest on typical cams out there.

I am not a believer in needing ridiculously high spring pressure as some are.....300-350 on the seat...

I've used nothing but the 1224 springs and have never found any evidence of valve float on any engine I had.

7500 rpm or less, steel valves.....or titanium that one engine I ran had....all with the same basic spring....

A decent 540 has to make over 800 hp or it's sick...even with a shelf grind, modest cam such as the R-M (Erson) they used in their early Super series engines

If you have a spring that measures 1.670" and it's a triple or a double with a dampner....I don't know what spring that might be....

The PAC's and the PSI's are a brownish/ bronze color with no stripe.....

The polished Nexteks held up better than the non polished.....

I often found a broken Nextek on heads I took apart.....Usually inners...

Have never broken a PAC or PSI.....same size, type spring....

Last year I replaced my springs and the old ones had a bit more pressure than the new ones......Old ones really did not have a lot of runs.....I changed them anyway...

I run the 420-116 in my 540, 4 link Mullis on c12 , 4.83@141

Nextex supplies a 1.677, but the required seat is 325-350.. that is why i questioned >Massive spring.

quote:

Originally posted by xtended_s10:
I was considering the RM 420-113 cam.

quote:

Originally posted by JRAMER:
I run the 420-116 in my 540

Both cams have way too much duration @ .050 for the OP's engine as described.

If he wants an Erson/RM shelf grind the 420-119 is the cam he wants. That said, if the engine either isn't coming apart or just coming apart to clean, I still say get the cam out and just reorder the same cam.

My cam is 283/294 int/ex at .050 .772/.765 lift.

So Ed i'm still thinking clean everything good and get it running. Don't you need more info than what i gave to say which cam would work best? i was thinking the 420-113 because when it does come apart to be rebuilt i would get the heads worked on. It might hurt it a bit now but should work good after head work? It will be interesting to see what exactly is in it. could already have to big of a cam in it. I can tell you when i first put it in it ran 5.52 at 125 on my 1050 alky carb.The carb was originally set up for my 406 and wasn't quite right so we switched to gas for multiple reasons. Still haven't got the cam out but i'm getting close. After talking to shafiroff i'm starting to think this wasn't one of their motors. so it could be a bunch of mismatched parts. I'll know more when i get that cam info. Thanks for the help all!!

quote:

Originally posted by green1:
My cam is 283/294 int/ex at .050 .772/.765 lift.

112/106.... Looks like the Lunati I was considering suggesting.

So i got the cam removed today. it has 2 numbers on it. It has a 6270 on it and V7344. I'm gonna do some searching. If anyone knows what these mean i'd appreciate the info.

saw a old thread on bullet guy said he knew it was 775/770 on a 112 centerline. He was looking for the rest of the info but nobody responded. Don't know if this info is accurate. Looks like i'll bother shafiroff again on Monday.

Dont get lobe separation confused with centerline.
Lobe separation is ground into the cam,and cannot be changed unless the cam can be reground, lobe centerline is where the cam is installed relative to the intake lobe centerline.
Cams will come with a cam card giving that info as a guideline.Example: 112 L/S with a 108 ICL
That shows it is 4 degrees advanced.
Cams are like converters, sometimes you have to experiment to find the best spot.

quote:

Originally posted by xtended_s10:
After talking to shafiroff i'm starting to think this wasn't one of their motors. so it could be a bunch of mismatched parts.

Bottomline is you don't know who built this engine or anything about it, least of which is the cam. All you know is that...

quote:

its a turd but i can still turn on win lights with it

So again, unless the engine is going to be completely disassembled and rebuilt, replace the damaged cam with the exact same cam.

If you can't identify it, send it to Comp and they will cam doctor it and duplicate it.

1320racer is telling it like it is. If you do not know the camshaft specs. and dont want to send it to see what it is then... Put a degree wheel on the balancer and get to it. If you track the events from on both the intake and the exhaust and keep track of the lift of the lobe you can figure out real quick what the lobe lift is,intake duration @.050 ehaust @.050,intake center line,exhaust centerline,lobe separation. Takes about 45 min.even checking multiple times.Oh yea im old so I use a calculator with BIG NUMBERS.Its actually fun to do and once you do it ,IF YOU WANT ,you can see how fast the ramps are buy checking at .100 intervals as to see the ramp profile.

Having sent you over here, I only have one little comment. If the lifter failed, “in place machining” of a cam lob occurred. your are taking a huge risk if you don’t take it 100% apart and clean the living heck out of everything. Cam bits have killed more crank pins then just about anything and for no other reason then the owner thinking he’s lucky and cutting corners.