quote:

Originally posted by David Covey:
I ran them for 1 season plus, changed them just because. Never really kept track of number of runs.
I usually changed them because I was running some major race and wanted to be sure everything was good.

Very short burn outs and my guess is I could have ran them a lot longer than I did.

Dave

Good to know. Thank you.
Shopping for bead locks has been an eye opener. I bought my first car for less than two rims!
Sounds like a 16x16 works for littles and bigs. I need to figure out offset. I like them to tuck in fairly close. I need every inch in this trailer with both cars.

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:


Good to know. Thank you.
Shopping for bead locks has been an eye opener. I bought my first car for less than two rims!
Sounds like a 16x16 works for littles and bigs. I need to figure out offset. I like them to tuck in fairly close. I need every inch in this trailer with both cars.

I am in same situation and I have a different bolt pattern and backspace than most so my choices are limited and not cheap.

5x4-3/4" for me. I think that is pretty common.

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:

quote:

Originally posted by David Covey:
I ran them for 1 season plus, changed them just because. Never really kept track of number of runs.
I usually changed them because I was running some major race and wanted to be sure everything was good.

Very short burn outs and my guess is I could have ran them a lot longer than I did.

Dave

Good to know. Thank you.
Shopping for bead locks has been an eye opener. I bought my first car for less than two rims!
Sounds like a 16x16 works for littles and bigs. I need to figure out offset. I like them to tuck in fairly close. I need every inch in this trailer with both cars.

For some reason summit proshop has this wheel listed at $1253 plus $100 off over orders of $1000

https://proshop.summitracing.c...ts/bsp-cdb036166140/

Best deal I’ve seen. Would like to choose a back space that clears the big bubba without excess. Been a while since I fit a tire and not sure how the bubbas bulge.
Hmmm. That came out sounding weird.

And I dont want to be short sighted with my tire choice. At least one of the quick races locally will take a 6.80 or so to get in. Is the little up to that task?

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:
And I dont want to be short sighted with my tire choice. At least one of the quick races locally will take a 6.80 or so to get in. Is the little up to that task?

I told you what you should do...... but the littles will handle 6.70's and then some with out a problem. No matter what tire you have on, once you have enough power, its how you apply it that counts.

quote:

Originally posted by TOP38:

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:
And I dont want to be short sighted with my tire choice. At least one of the quick races locally will take a 6.80 or so to get in. Is the little up to that task?

I told you what you should do...... but the littles will handle 6.70's and then some with out a problem. No matter what tire you have on, once you have enough power, its how you apply it that counts.

While I'm not comp racing, I am kinda using what I have to get a small block into some of the quick races.

quote:

Originally posted by ActionRacingPhotos:

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:

quote:

Originally posted by David Covey:
I ran them for 1 season plus, changed them just because. Never really kept track of number of runs.
I usually changed them because I was running some major race and wanted to be sure everything was good.

Very short burn outs and my guess is I could have ran them a lot longer than I did.

Dave

Good to know. Thank you.
Shopping for bead locks has been an eye opener. I bought my first car for less than two rims!
Sounds like a 16x16 works for littles and bigs. I need to figure out offset. I like them to tuck in fairly close. I need every inch in this trailer with both cars.

For some reason summit proshop has this wheel listed at $1253 plus $100 off over orders of $1000

https://proshop.summitracing.c...ts/bsp-cdb036166140/

Where do you see the $100 off?

Promo code ALWAYS should be across the top of the page

quote:

Originally posted by ActionRacingPhotos:
Promo code ALWAYS should be across the top of the page

You cant use a promo code and pro shop pricing.

Bucky,

While figuring out your back spacing, look at the section width of any tire you "may" want to run.


I know Hoosier, Goodyear and MT section widths are different even when looking at the same size tire.

You said you wanted to tuck them up tight, so just reminding you to take that into account.


Dave

Bucky,

Look at Sander Engineering wheel. I like them..

S&W race cars sell them.

Plus I think they will make a custom back spacing if you need them.

Dave

the big bubba ought to stick out past the rim 1.3". I should be able to figure out what will fit with that number.

7.5” to nearest touch from hat face. Subtract 1.3
Could do 6” back space for maximum tuck in. 5” is probably a more versatile rim backspacing. Ones I have now are 3”

I have talked to a good number of racers who run the 15" tires recently. Screwed not beadlock. There are a lot of 15" choices.

School me on compounds. What do the very low second cars on a four link and maybe a little faster run?

It seems like some like a wide tire and some narrow. Some taller and some not. I would like to stay with the 102 rollout and maybe just a little more if that is a choice. It would sure be a lot cheaper to not buy 16" beadlocks.

The 3191w little bubba is the same X8 compound as the 3080 the MT tech suggested to you.

X8 vs L8
Depend on where you live for temps?

I have had some conversation with racers that have gotten past tire shake that have seen some link to tire diameter. Bigger giving less chance of shaking. Wonder what happens if you compensate with additional gear? And of course if you don't adjust your ride height, the 4 link geometry is different, which affects initial hit/bite.

Same with compound. A tire with less grip being less likely to shake.

Some claim that it's all in the shocks. I can say that I did loosen up the extension when I tried the big bubba's, and it still didn't want to shake.

What about 4 link type? I have a wishbone in mine. Are the tied together bottom bars more forgiving?

What about more or less spread at the axle? And IC's/4 link settings?

Even have seen one say that pinion angle can unhook the car enough to avoid the shake.

No screws? Screws? Beadlocks?

Someone mentioned HOW power is applied. Explain? Two step high/low? Removing timing? I have a lot of ways to add/remove a lot of power at the starting line and beyond. My car generally does not shake at the hit, but usually out a ways as the power starts coming on.

I know the mt's seem to be more resistant to shake.

Anything anyone wants to share about their experiences?

And of course wheel speed vs time