Tried to fire car up and seems battery showing its butt. Seems yearly deal, Last year blamed battery and was st=arter. So I did not go along with 16v back to 12 v swap. Now that battery is problem I am rethinking that, Almost 400 for new 16v has lot tgo do with that.

No alternator and no place for it w/o lot of new mounting of fuel mump and vac pump. Now terash vac and easy install. Just getting that part iof replies out of way.

Looking to see what 12v option other than optima is being used, Not that optima is out of question. Lithium is way out of range cost wise. If bought lithoium would not need because could not run car anytime soon.LOL

Very few acc. IO have one cooling fan for transmission. Data logger. pri,mer pump and fvew gauges. No electrical for ignition since running mag 12.

what are you running and really like or have run and hate?

Tell him Markemark

I’m no alternator also and went with the big Optima Yellow Top pn 9094-194 BCI Group H7 battery. I did have to construct my own battery box for this oversized behemoth but it should support the load with no problem. Left steer roadster footbraker…

Before going to 16v I had very good luck with AutoZone duralast group 34 agm batteries.

Titan 8 S5 3400 was like $400, and it cranks over at least as good as my previous 14V did. This was a year ago on sale.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: inferno camaro,

My batteries last very good but I keep them on trickle charger most of the time. I have had some Optima 12 volt batteries last 10 years and more. After a few years in the car I will put them in trailer or engine test stand what ever and new one in the car. But I keep most of them on the trickle charger.

I will say this out of the 4- 16 volt batteries I have bought new 2 of them were junk right out of the box. They charged up good but went dead quick. Sent one back and they said it was with in tolerance and did not want to warranty it. They always have some BS excuse, "You were not using right battery charger for it" Nope, I spent $400 on YOUR battery charge specifically for it. They just gave me the run around because they knew it was junk and did not want to cover it. If you buy a XS POWER 16 volt battery make sure you buy it through Amazon so when / if you have to return it you do not get the run around as much.

Must be something oin the air around here. Battgery in old Dodge is dead as dooe nail and one ion Harley seems to be headed to same place,One for Hrley abvout same price as oinew for car since owner pumped engine up some,LOL

Hell looks like just short of 800 bucks on batterys this week.

Curly

Who did you buy the 16v junker thru? Amazon is little cheaper not sure worth shipping hassel if have to return. Thats not just 16v but also on optma whiuch IU can get thru Auto zone and just return local if issue which is worth lot more than price difference.Plkus gets me 60 cent a gallon off 35 gallong with points, Wiufe wanted to poinbt out to me,LOL

On that last point. If buy all 3 batterys thru auto zone I can save about 1 $1 per gal for 35 and another ,60 for another 35. Hell that will buy me most of 5 gallons of alky,LOL

Has anyone tried a XS S1600, 33 pounds, 500 CCA, 2000 max amps?

It's 17.4 pounds lighter than the D1600 which is 50.4 pounds but is more powerful at 675 CCA and 2400 max amps.

17.4 pounds is significantly lighter and rear weight is something I don't need.

I considered a 16 volt lithium (about 8 pounds) but the price and the fact I can't run my new alternator ended that thought.

Bob

I looked at he light weight 16v last time I bought one. The lower cranking amps worried me.

WOuld not mind lithium and would love dropping that much weight. Also have issue money wise with charger required to go with it.

I borrowed a S1600 at the track when we realized my new injected 582 didn't like 12v. Ran it all weekend with no alternator just keeping it charged with no problems. All that being said I ordered the D1600 and a new alternator when we got home.

quote:

Originally posted by wideopen231:
Curly

Who did you buy the 16v junker thru? Amazon is little cheaper not sure worth shipping hassel if have to return. Thats not just 16v but also on optma whiuch IU can get thru Auto zone and just return local if issue which is worth lot more than price difference.Plkus gets me 60 cent a gallon off 35 gallong with points, Wiufe wanted to poinbt out to me,LOL

I bought the first one from Summit. They were not the problem, it was XS Power trying to give me the run around. The second one that was no good I bought from Amazon because of the return policy and sure enough it was bad. But with Amazon you just go on line and tell them you want to return it and they send you a return authorization.

As for your question about lower cranking amps, do not get it! Guarantee you it will let you down. With 16 volts you need all you can get because it spins motor over faster but also goes dead quicker and gives you less warning than a 12 volt system. Losing 17.4 Lbs is good but not worth losing a race because it did not start for final round in the staging lanes. Sounds like you are already having problems with 16 volt system, it will get worse with lower CCA.

Yes this one is having issue. WShile not butt load of runs on it. Lots playing with car and about 3 years old.

I will take a charge and shows 19 volts. Spins engine for little while but not long enough to build oil pressure, System is large and take good amount of oiul to build pressure, But this is with plugs out. So cranking probably not happening much less a issue online with crankiong MFI that will fire great then thrwo youy curve ball.
ZZZI will say when it was working I could crank car 8 or 10 times w/o charging. I thought pretty good.

Someone tell me how optima is better than equal power level duralast or equal? Last longer or more durable?

I tried going to a 16v few years ago with alternator - it was no good for double entering and trying to cool car coolant and transmission with Jones cooler. I would religiously plug it in after a run as much as possible and each round it would get less and less - to the point it would die.

Went back to two red tops and car cranks just as quick - and zero start issues. Batteries never drop to less than 12v even when I forget something is on.

My 16v was XS1600. And I figured if I need to run two of them (which might have worked) I might as well just run 2 12v batteries that I can easily borrow or buy at local store.

Also nothing I did could get the magnafuel pump to reduce pressure. Magnafuel offered every possible solution, I spent at least 4k on new lines, regulators, etc. And yes I tried the ARC voltage reducer that would last about 4 runs before dying. Did that twice. Put the 12v red tops in with same alternator, and wiring and zero issues.

16v = no good in my opinion.

Group 31 truck battery.

I have always used the 1200 series batteries from Odyssey and XS power.

The XS power I have now is going on year 5 I am pretty sure.

12 Volt vs 16 Volt, I do not think a lot of people understand it and it is hard for me to explain.

If the both have the same CCA the 12 Volt will spin it over longer before it goes dead. The 16 Volt definitely spins motor over faster but it also goes dead quicker. Both have same CCA (Energy), the difference is how quickly it dumps that energy.

It is similar to having a four speed car, if you take off in first gear (12 volt)the car will take off easier than taking off in Third gear but if you have enough power (CCA) to pull the car it would take off faster in Third but it also lugs it down and dies easier. The 16 Volt spins motor over faster but goes dead quicker with less warning.

Lets go back to CCA, you could say just get one with more CCA. Well that helps of course but there is no magic there. It comes from more lead (Weight) and acid. Or you could run two 16 Volt batteries if weight is not a problem.

People seem to think since the 16 Volt spins it over so much faster it has more energy, it does not it just dumps that energy faster.

One of my cars is still 16 volt but when it is time to change batteries on it I will go back to 12 volt on it like I did on my other car.

The final issue is Quality Control, out of the four 16 volt batteries I have bought 2 did not hold a charge good. May have just been some kind of fluke but fact is they let me down and cost me rounds. As tough as the competition is I do not need my equipment to let me down. Some people hate the 12 Volt Optima batteries but they have worked very well for me.

Not a huge difference and both work but for me I now prefer the 12 Volt batteries. My opinion, your mileage may vary.

Did look at truck battery. Issue is hight. WSith battery in nose of car I am some what limited there. Same with width. Length no issue. Two batteries is pretty much out of question also. Heck 2 would damn sure keep front end on gound.LOL

I've been running an XS Power D1600 16v for many years now. Never had one issue with it, and have made it as many as 5 rounds without charging, and that's on an MFI setup, driving to and from the lanes, with water pump on 100% of the time the car is running. Yeah, it's on methanol but that also is having to start it with a belt driven pump.....I have a primer but only use it when it's a cold start....after that I don't. I keep mine charged in the off season and they are good to do. Data log has shown my voltage has never dropped below 15.7v during the run.

I have however, gone to the dark side after saying I never would....and have a Full Spectrum lithium on the way......33lbs makes a difference in a dragster...