quote:

Originally posted by Tom396:


Lastly, given a budget of a million dollars, do you think you could put a system on a vehicle to consistently generate near perfect runs (.005 pkg or better), with only a so-so driver at the wheel, just to see if it could even be done?

quote:

Originally posted by The Pirate:

•Throttle stops allowed/no stutter boxes.
•Slew rate controls are prohibited.
•Random car inspections may be performed at any time.
•MSD Ignition box 7531 is prohibited.

quote:

Originally posted by Brktracer:

Tom: You can buy back a lot of times for a million dollars. Maybe you're over thinking this... LOL!

quote:

Originally posted by Yellow Ticket:
I used to just "re-case" my MSD 7531 in a regular MSD 7530 case and ride the dots, but I would make sure I still had my regular 6AL mounted on the dash, so no one really questioned it. It didn't really make the car run with .005, but it really helped when the dew settled, or when it was a while between rounds, due to an oil-down, rain shower, etc. I didn’t have to worry too much about the light because it was just street car/no box class so anything within .500-.550 was ok.

Now days I had to get a little fancier, so I have two grids, one in an obvious place, (for tech of course) and the other hidden. I hide mine behind a “false” dash in my dragster. The other one is out in the open with 12 volts hooked up (so the light goes on and off) I only need one coil, I just have several false wires here and there so its hard to track.. The trick is my magnetic collar is on the planetary and in the transmission.. This keep prying eyes from following any wires. No need to worry about the front tires because the back is always planted.. Plus with a 4.10 geared dragster going 5.00’s, there isn’t much spin. I usually dial slow so it can always take timing out, because its easier to take out timing, than to hit it with nitrous.
Hitting the tree is done with a Bluetooth photo receptor, (similar to iphone’s auto adjust feature in bright sunlight) using the air holes in my helmet. I had to take out some of the helmet padding to get it to fit in there, but its pretty hidden. It only activates after I set it (once both staged) so it will only react to the next “brightness”. I do have a light on my dash to make sure it goes off so I don’t sit at the starting line if it misses, so I don’t look silly, I just use the last chance button I have wired to my delay box, in case I need to leave on the third yellow.

Hitting the dial “I tell it” is a little in the future. I just get two baseline rounds, (time trails) and once my grid records a run, I just set the MSD slew (7761) to follow that run. Once its set I can take the controller out. Still not within .005 each run, but it tightens up the daily spread from .03 to around .015. During big money events, I can reset the slew from the last run due to how much time I have in between rounds, but at local events, there are too many people and not enough down time.

Of course I made this entire thing up, because I'm still waiting around for decent weather.

quote:

Originally posted by Tom396:

quote:

Originally posted by Yellow Ticket:
I used to just "re-case" my MSD 7531 in a regular MSD 7530 case and ride the dots, but I would make sure I still had my regular 6AL mounted on the dash, so no one really questioned it. It didn't really make the car run with .005, but it really helped when the dew settled, or when it was a while between rounds, due to an oil-down, rain shower, etc. I didn’t have to worry too much about the light because it was just street car/no box class so anything within .500-.550 was ok.

Now days I had to get a little fancier, so I have two grids, one in an obvious place, (for tech of course) and the other hidden. I hide mine behind a “false” dash in my dragster. The other one is out in the open with 12 volts hooked up (so the light goes on and off) I only need one coil, I just have several false wires here and there so its hard to track.. The trick is my magnetic collar is on the planetary and in the transmission.. This keep prying eyes from following any wires. No need to worry about the front tires because the back is always planted.. Plus with a 4.10 geared dragster going 5.00’s, there isn’t much spin. I usually dial slow so it can always take timing out, because its easier to take out timing, than to hit it with nitrous.
Hitting the tree is done with a Bluetooth photo receptor, (similar to iphone’s auto adjust feature in bright sunlight) using the air holes in my helmet. I had to take out some of the helmet padding to get it to fit in there, but its pretty hidden. It only activates after I set it (once both staged) so it will only react to the next “brightness”. I do have a light on my dash to make sure it goes off so I don’t sit at the starting line if it misses, so I don’t look silly, I just use the last chance button I have wired to my delay box, in case I need to leave on the third yellow.

Hitting the dial “I tell it” is a little in the future. I just get two baseline rounds, (time trails) and once my grid records a run, I just set the MSD slew (7761) to follow that run. Once its set I can take the controller out. Still not within .005 each run, but it tightens up the daily spread from .03 to around .015. During big money events, I can reset the slew from the last run due to how much time I have in between rounds, but at local events, there are too many people and not enough down time.

Of course I made this entire thing up, because I'm still waiting around for decent weather.

I genuinely learned from this post, even if it wasn't necessarily intended for that purpose. A bit of it went over my head, but I'm still digesting it. Take care. Tom Worthington

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Beck:
And....... If you happen to be running EFI and using a system from FAST, there are two different units, a black box and a red box. One is legal in all classes, the other is not due to the built-in traction control. Nothing to stop someone from swapping guts though.......

quote:

Originally posted by Tom396:

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Beck:
And....... If you happen to be running EFI and using a system from FAST, there are two different units, a black box and a red box. One is legal in all classes, the other is not due to the built-in traction control. Nothing to stop someone from swapping guts though.......

Does the one with traction control really change much, unless you have a traction issue? Take care. Tom Worthington

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Beck:

quote:

Originally posted by Tom396:

quote:

Originally posted by Mike Beck:
And....... If you happen to be running EFI and using a system from FAST, there are two different units, a black box and a red box. One is legal in all classes, the other is not due to the built-in traction control. Nothing to stop someone from swapping guts though.......

Does the one with traction control really change much, unless you have a traction issue? Take care. Tom Worthington

Nope. Same as the MSD 7531, no traction issues, no advantage to using one. I doubt it's accurate enough to "ride the dots" and make the car/dragster run the exact dial all the time.....

Get something to "see" the tree to control the start of the race, I think that's where most of the race takes place. Seems a lot of cars/dragsters don't have a big issue repeating in the 1/8, the 1/4 is a little different, especially with wind.

quote:

Originally posted by Mopar Traitor:
Many cars today are very consistent. The light sensor is where it is happening if it is at all and there are good engineers that could set this up.

quote:

posted March 22, 2019 06:45 PMHide Postquote:Originally posted by Mopar Traitor:Many cars today are very consistent. The light sensor is where it is happening if it is at all and there are good engineers that could set this up. Name these engineers, and any racers who are using these systems......or quit spreading lies.

quote:

Originally posted by Yellow Ticket:

(snip)

Hitting the tree is done with a Bluetooth photo receptor, (similar to iphone’s auto adjust feature in bright sunlight) using the air holes in my helmet. I had to take out some of the helmet padding to get it to fit in there, but its pretty hidden. It only activates after I set it (once both staged) so it will only react to the next “brightness”. (snip)

quote:

Originally posted by Slick Vic:

quote:

Originally posted by Hotrod Corvette:
Lets see...you can always take out one of your eyes and replace it with a glass eye that has a light sensor built in. Have the fake eye sensor use a Bluetooth connection to the transbrake connection (you can use a fake button to not draw attention) Then install it in an EV that runs the number every time...and you got a winner

I can't believe you would be so insensitive to one eyed racers like the legend Danny Bastianelli. He will now have to go to his safe space due to your very offensive comments. Although not purposely done to win races, i know he will only show you his wooden eye after going 200 mph in the shutdown and $20 to pop it out.

quote:

Originally posted by J178RED:
Some people just like stirring The pot ! I’ve got a laser light reader That gives you trip zip lights every time, really it works ....LOL

quote:

Originally posted by Mopar Traitor:

quote:

posted March 22, 2019 06:45 PMHide Postquote:Originally posted by Mopar Traitor:Many cars today are very consistent. The light sensor is where it is happening if it is at all and there are good engineers that could set this up. Name these engineers, and any racers who are using these systems......or quit spreading lies.

Where do you get spreading lies??? I said if it is happening at all. And if you think this could not be done, you probably, well I will leave it there.

quote:

Originally posted by Tom396:
During the many practice tree races that I see advertised, what kind of reaction time averages get posted? Are they as good or nearly as good as the ones seen in actual in car competition? Take care. Tom Worthington

quote:

Originally posted by ferndaleflyer:
Woodrow you once mentioned on here that you at one time hid something in your race car that was not supposed to be there. Care to mention that again. By the way I raced with you in NC years ago.