quote:

Originally posted by Lenny5160:

quote:

Originally posted by TOP38:
As an FYI, if you had a 2" diameter solid axle vs a 2" diameter axle with a 1" gun drill center you have only reduce the load capacity by less than 8% for the gun drilled axle!!!!! YES 8%!

Removing half the material and only reducing the strength by 8% seems like a decent trade, but is the weight savings worth weakening the axle by 8%?

I'm sure that is a user-specific question, but as a person in the market for axles for my bracket dragster, I'm genuinely curious if getting the drilled axles is a benefit. The cost is negligible, IMO.

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:

quote:

Originally posted by Lenny5160:

quote:

Originally posted by TOP38:
As an FYI, if you had a 2" diameter solid axle vs a 2" diameter axle with a 1" gun drill center you have only reduce the load capacity by less than 8% for the gun drilled axle!!!!! YES 8%!

300m is a good deal stronger than 4140. But that's not the entire picture. Both will work but the 300m will last longer. The closer you stress steel to yield per cycle, the faster it will fatigue.


Removing half the material and only reducing the strength by 8% seems like a decent trade, but is the weight savings worth weakening the axle by 8%?

I'm sure that is a user-specific question, but as a person in the market for axles for my bracket dragster, I'm genuinely curious if getting the drilled axles is a benefit. The cost is negligible, IMO.

I am certainly no mechanical / structural engineer but I would think that the type of metal would have an effect.

MW 4140 axles can be gun drilled a maximum of 7/8
The 300M axles can be gun drilled to 1 inch and have the same strength because the material is stronger.

So a solid 300M axle would have to be stronger than a solid 4140 axle I would think. How much I have no clue.
My car will run .100 or more under the new 6.10 index for TD so I cant see heavier axles making much difference in my ET so I went with solid. Just simply cannot afford that kind of coin for a floater right now.

Maybe NHRA will make a new rule in the future about requiring a floater. Not saying its right and I could be way wrong but I bet only 1 in 10 cars in TD have one right now.

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:
Wish I had Bender money so I could afford one too....lol

quote:

Originally posted by TOP38:

quote:

Originally posted by Lenny5160:

quote:

Originally posted by TOP38:
As an FYI, if you had a 2" diameter solid axle vs a 2" diameter axle with a 1" gun drill center you have only reduce the load capacity by less than 8% for the gun drilled axle!!!!! YES 8%!

Removing half the material and only reducing the strength by 8% seems like a decent trade, but is the weight savings worth weakening the axle by 8%?

I'm sure that is a user-specific question, but as a person in the market for axles for my bracket dragster, I'm genuinely curious if getting the drilled axles is a benefit. The cost is negligible, IMO.

How are you asking that question? For your typical bracket car or a 3.80 car? If it's the 3.80 car the answer is simple, neither, its needs a floater! For the bracket guy, well to each his own. I just posted that info since I'd bet many think a gun drilled axle is a good deal weaker than not when in fact there is not much difference.

quote:

Originally posted by pentastarrail:
There is a HUGE difference between a 3.80 dragster and a 6.00 dragster.
My car goes 6.00 BUT I only go 4.00's in the eighth.
My 60's are 1.00.

My wifes car goes .990 60's 6.90's in the quarter, 4.30's in the eighth.

Which one is harder on the axles?

quote:

Originally posted by Lenny5160:

quote:

Originally posted by TOP38:

quote:

Originally posted by Lenny5160:

quote:

Originally posted by TOP38:
As an FYI, if you had a 2" diameter solid axle vs a 2" diameter axle with a 1" gun drill center you have only reduce the load capacity by less than 8% for the gun drilled axle!!!!! YES 8%!

Removing half the material and only reducing the strength by 8% seems like a decent trade, but is the weight savings worth weakening the axle by 8%?

I'm sure that is a user-specific question, but as a person in the market for axles for my bracket dragster, I'm genuinely curious if getting the drilled axles is a benefit. The cost is negligible, IMO.

How are you asking that question? For your typical bracket car or a 3.80 car? If it's the 3.80 car the answer is simple, neither, its needs a floater! For the bracket guy, well to each his own. I just posted that info since I'd bet many think a gun drilled axle is a good deal weaker than not when in fact there is not much difference.

I have a reasonably fast bracket/Super Comp dragster. 4.65 @ 148 or 8.90 @ 182. I'm planning to upgrade my 35-spline stuff to 40-spline. Is there any tangible benefit to getting the gun drilled axles and lightened flanges? I understand that less weight is good, but what does that mean? .01 quicker, less stress on other parts to help them live longer, or??? Does that benefit offset the 8% weakening of the part?

quote:

Originally posted by pentastarrail:
There is a HUGE difference between a 3.80 dragster and a 6.00 dragster.
My car goes 6.00 BUT I only go 4.00's in the eighth.
My 60's are 1.00.

My wifes car goes .990 60's 6.90's in the quarter, 4.30's in the eighth.

Which one is harder on the axles?

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:
But what if the car has a 1.03 60ft runs 6.10 at 240 mph.
How would that effect what type of axle?

quote:

Originally posted by pentastarrail:
My point is 3.80's or quicker is a lot harder on parts, i.e. axles, than 6.00 (not including tire shake, etc).

Steve,
I would say you are good with a non floater. Don't get me wrong, do the upgrade if you want to (err on the side of caution is always good).
That's a nice ride.
Just curious, what do you run in the eighth?

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:

quote:

Originally posted by pentastarrail:
My point is 3.80's or quicker is a lot harder on parts, i.e. axles, than 6.00 (not including tire shake, etc).

Steve,
I would say you are good with a non floater. Don't get me wrong, do the upgrade if you want to (err on the side of caution is always good).
That's a nice ride.
Just curious, what do you run in the eighth?

Car has gone 3.90 in the eighth on 24lbs of boost but with the new 6.10 index my plan is to actually turn the boost up and kill it down low with timing then run 6.10 with big speed out the back. Might work and might not but I am going to try and see.

Top38, your pretty spot on with you 8% analysis, I talked with a MW engineer today and with the 300M material axles he said LESS than 5% stronger non gun drilled verse 7/8 gun drilled. Of course also recommends a floater but feels I should be fine with a flanged housing and the 300M axles with 7/8 gun drill.

quote:

Originally posted by pentastarrail:
Al,