Share |
DragRaceResults.Com    Bracket Talk    Bracket Talk Forum  Hop To Forum Categories  Tech Talk - by Abruzzi    BBC engine block?
Page 1 2 3 4 5 
Go
New
Find
Notify
Tools
Reply
  
BBC engine block?
 Login/Join
 
DRR Trophy
posted
Anyone use a MarK IV 454 block #10069286. It's a 90-91 short deck 4 bolt main. Looking at one seems like a good piece to start with. Good? or Bad?
 
Posts: 131 | Location: california | Registered: November 16, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of Mike Rietow
posted Hide Post
Chase the starter bolt hole threads, head bolt hole threads, water pump, bellhousing, fuel pump.

If all that checks out, I pay $500 for em every chance I get. Pump gas muscle car engines.

Do a rudimentary check on the line bore too.

They'll go as much as 060 over safely no problem.




https://youtu.be/FZ6zwnyDwUg

http://ottm.store

https://youtu.be/I8QWEaqeFRw

1996, 1998, 2001, 2003, 2005, 2006, 2008 Super Pro Champion Sunshine Dragstrip, Clearwater Florida
 
Posts: 8829 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
posted Hide Post
So Mike? you are having good luck with the 286 blocks? I googled the block number and found of course pros and cons on this block. (Pros) One person said they made 1400hp using that block and the(Cons) they have thin wall castings. My plan is to make about 600hp+ with a 489 stroker.
 
Posts: 131 | Location: california | Registered: November 16, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of Mike Rietow
posted Hide Post
I have one in line now 4.280 bore 4.25 stroke BBC. I drove to West Palm Beach Fl. to pickup the late model 4 bolt block.

Scat rotating assembly.




https://youtu.be/FZ6zwnyDwUg

http://ottm.store

https://youtu.be/I8QWEaqeFRw

1996, 1998, 2001, 2003, 2005, 2006, 2008 Super Pro Champion Sunshine Dragstrip, Clearwater Florida
 
Posts: 8829 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
posted Hide Post
What about testing the blocks? Pressure, magnaflux and sonic?
 
Posts: 131 | Location: california | Registered: November 16, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
Picture of 1320racer
posted Hide Post
What type of build is this block going to be used for?


O'IT!

Offering 1st hand experience and advice based on 3 decades of on track proven performance

"if you guys are so broke dyck you can't buy USA made parts you need to stay the fuc at home that's the bottomline" ----Tim McAmis



 
Posts: 12046 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of Mike Rietow
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by 50fordsst:
What about testing the blocks? Pressure, magnaflux and sonic?


Typically, buying these blocks require a minimum of a 100 mile ride to pick em up, for me. If you got a guy who'll work with ya sure.

I'm talking about checks you can do if you buy one at a swap meet, or gotta take a ride to pick it up.

I bought a block I couldn't use, actually I could've but chose against it. Goes with the territory.


https://youtu.be/FZ6zwnyDwUg

http://ottm.store

https://youtu.be/I8QWEaqeFRw

1996, 1998, 2001, 2003, 2005, 2006, 2008 Super Pro Champion Sunshine Dragstrip, Clearwater Florida
 
Posts: 8829 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Trophy
posted Hide Post
489 (.030 over) 4.250 stroke, 6.385 rod, center counter weighted crank, 12.1 CC, solid roller, Eddy alum.320 heads, dominator intake, 2-1/8" headers
 
Posts: 131 | Location: california | Registered: November 16, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
Picture of 1320racer
posted Hide Post
It will be fine for this build which will make around 700HP. That said I’d used 2” headers.


O'IT!

Offering 1st hand experience and advice based on 3 decades of on track proven performance

"if you guys are so broke dyck you can't buy USA made parts you need to stay the fuc at home that's the bottomline" ----Tim McAmis



 
Posts: 12046 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of Mike Rietow
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by 50fordsst:
489 (.030 over) 4.250 stroke, 6.385 rod, center counter weighted crank, 12.1 CC, solid roller, Eddy alum.320 heads, dominator intake, 2-1/8" headers


That'll make 700 hp plus.

I just did one 10:1 compression, hydraulic roller cam made 700 plus with Pro Comp 320's.

Pro Comp 320's are pretty decent though. The one's I get are assembled in Tennessee with all Manley parts, they come with a shorter rectangular port than say as example a traditionall 990 rectangular port Chevrolet/GM head. I prefer it 468-496 actually.



https://youtu.be/FZ6zwnyDwUg

http://ottm.store

https://youtu.be/I8QWEaqeFRw

1996, 1998, 2001, 2003, 2005, 2006, 2008 Super Pro Champion Sunshine Dragstrip, Clearwater Florida
 
Posts: 8829 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
Picture of 1320racer
posted Hide Post
Bullshyt feel good dyno sheets are meaningless. The time slip tells the truth!


O'IT!

Offering 1st hand experience and advice based on 3 decades of on track proven performance

"if you guys are so broke dyck you can't buy USA made parts you need to stay the fuc at home that's the bottomline" ----Tim McAmis



 
Posts: 12046 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of Mike Rietow
posted Hide Post
For what it is, that'll be a nice little engine. I wouldn't be afraid of a late model Gen IV block +030 at all.

Like I said I have one in line, same block + 030, same stroke.

It'll be on the stand after the all aluminum 572 dragster engine I'm doing currently.


https://youtu.be/FZ6zwnyDwUg

http://ottm.store

https://youtu.be/I8QWEaqeFRw

1996, 1998, 2001, 2003, 2005, 2006, 2008 Super Pro Champion Sunshine Dragstrip, Clearwater Florida
 
Posts: 8829 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
posted Hide Post
Thanks for input you two. I know you both are under a lot of heat on this forum, but you know when it comes to tech info. I trust both of you. This motor is going into a super street 3250 lb. with me in it. I don't intend to be the one chasing. Keep it under 135. Just have a motor that will keep the R's down at finish line for longevity. So?? What would be your cam selection??
 
Posts: 131 | Location: california | Registered: November 16, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of Mike Rietow
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by 50fordsst:
Thanks for input you two. I know you both are under a lot of heat on this forum, but you know when it comes to tech info. I trust both of you. This motor is going into a super street 3250 lb. with me in it. I don't intend to be the one chasing. Keep it under 135. Just have a motor that will keep the R's down at finish line for longevity. So?? What would be your cam selection??


Camshafts are few and far between but I've noticed JEGS has Lunati cams in stock.

They're selling a Lunati 50204 for what I paid for one 20 years ago. 339.95

That cam will meet your goals, easy on parts too.

There's others I'd prefer because already run this cam but it's the best bargain price wise, and easy to get I've seen.

269/276 685/692 110

Most solid rollers are around $500 or plus.


https://youtu.be/FZ6zwnyDwUg

http://ottm.store

https://youtu.be/I8QWEaqeFRw

1996, 1998, 2001, 2003, 2005, 2006, 2008 Super Pro Champion Sunshine Dragstrip, Clearwater Florida
 
Posts: 8829 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Trophy
posted Hide Post
Amazing that's the same cam that was in the motor that blew up. Was running 5.14 gears and with that cam it was out of breath at 1100'. Planning on changing gears to 4.71's. Yes that cam has a lot of bottom end and "knock on wood" showed no signs of valve train problems. Run the valves between races and would always be the same.The engine break was too many runs or an oiling problem, haven't pin pointed that yet or does it matter. Have a cam I haven't tried. It's a Clay-Smith single pattern 274 @ .050 .680 lift @110
 
Posts: 131 | Location: california | Registered: November 16, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of Mike Rietow
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by 50fordsst:
Amazing that's the same cam that was in the motor that blew up. Was running 5.14 gears and with that cam it was out of breath at 1100'. Planning on changing gears to 4.71's. Yes that cam has a lot of bottom end and "knock on wood" showed no signs of valve train problems. Run the valves between races and would always be the same.The engine break was too many runs or an oiling problem, haven't pin pointed that yet or does it matter. Have a cam I haven't tried. It's a Clay-Smith single pattern 274 @ .050 .680 lift @110


Clay Smith cam sounds good too.


https://youtu.be/FZ6zwnyDwUg

http://ottm.store

https://youtu.be/I8QWEaqeFRw

1996, 1998, 2001, 2003, 2005, 2006, 2008 Super Pro Champion Sunshine Dragstrip, Clearwater Florida
 
Posts: 8829 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of BP758
posted Hide Post
Have a good shop do a touch off, checks bore to dowel align, cam / crank front to rear and lifters.
If your machine shop can’t do it, find one that can.
It’s worth the money! Just went through this.


Raceless in California!
 
Posts: 4267 | Location: Vacaville  | Registered: January 07, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
Picture of 1320racer
posted Hide Post
I’ve been wrenching hot rods and rebuilt my first engine nearly 50 years ago as well I worked in an engine shop and I never have heard the phrase “touch off” must be a California thing.

That said, while qualifying a block has value, for this build, anything more than checking for cracks and maybe pressure checking is a waste of $. This is obviously a budget build otherwise it would start with a new aftermarket block and be built with at least a 4.560 bore.

Me, today, I would not waste my time today with a stock/gm block for any race engine.


O'IT!

Offering 1st hand experience and advice based on 3 decades of on track proven performance

"if you guys are so broke dyck you can't buy USA made parts you need to stay the fuc at home that's the bottomline" ----Tim McAmis



 
Posts: 12046 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
posted Hide Post
Ed,

Curious why you wouldn't use a Merlin block on any build. Do you know something other people don't? I would have figured that they would have everything lined out by now.

Is it made with poor material or what? Inquiring minds want to know.


Clowns to the left of me, Jokers to the right. Here I am.......
 
Posts: 5152 | Location: stuck in the middle with you! | Registered: March 11, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
Picture of 1320racer
posted Hide Post
Vern, a few reasons…

1. Back in the day Merlin aka World Products was owned by Bill Mitchell who along with his products didn’t have a great reputation.

2. All the nationally known sportsman engine builders did and still do use Dart Big M blocks when the choice is cast iron block.


O'IT!

Offering 1st hand experience and advice based on 3 decades of on track proven performance

"if you guys are so broke dyck you can't buy USA made parts you need to stay the fuc at home that's the bottomline" ----Tim McAmis



 
Posts: 12046 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
  Powered by Social Strata Page 1 2 3 4 5  
 

DragRaceResults.Com    Bracket Talk    Bracket Talk Forum  Hop To Forum Categories  Tech Talk - by Abruzzi    BBC engine block?

© DragRaceResults.com 2023